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Servicing Hints - Spark Plug Threads, Plug Type & Exhaust Mounts.


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Carrera 996/C2/2003/3600cc/55k miles

 

Please may I have your views on the following:

 

My exhausts were starting to look a bit tired and breaking up at the bottom, so I have decided to replace them and in the process thought I would do the sparking plugs and coil packs. The following request for advice relates to these items. 

 

Coil Packs

These are not showing any faults, but showing some casing cracks.  I have decided to go with Beru as an OE replacement.

 

Does the rubber shaft from the coil pack require lubrication and if so what should I use?

 

Plugs

The  plugs look OK but I am changing them.  They are Beru 14FGR-6kQU  RS.

 

Any recommendations for other makes?

 

Do the plug threads require anti seize?

 

Exhaust

The exhaust was a pig to remove as four of the studs into the mount sheared.  I will weld in new ones.

 

Is it appropriate to turn around the long fixing bolts so that they go bolt upwards

 

It would make exhaust replacement easier.  I realise that having the bolt downwards is better for security reasons as if the nut drops off the exhaust won't fall off.  However, it is my intention to reverse the bolts and use a lock wire at the end to prevent the nut falling off. 

 

Thanks for reading and I look forward to your views.

 

H

 

 

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Carrera 996/C2/2003/3600cc/55k miles

 

Please may I have your views on the following:

 

My exhausts were starting to look a bit tired and breaking up at the bottom, so I have decided to replace them and in the process thought I would do the sparking plugs and coil packs. The following request for advice relates to these items. 

 

Coil Packs

These are not showing any faults, but showing some casing cracks.  I have decided to go with Beru as an OE replacement.

 

Does the rubber shaft from the coil pack require lubrication and if so what should I use?

 

Plugs

The  plugs look OK but I am changing them.  They are Beru 14FGR-6kQU  RS.

 

Any recommendations for other makes?

 

Do the plug threads require anti seize?

 

Exhaust

The exhaust was a pig to remove as four of the studs into the mount sheared.  I will weld in new ones.

 

Is it appropriate to turn around the long fixing bolts so that they go bolt upwards

 

It would make exhaust replacement easier.  I realise that having the bolt downwards is better for security reasons as if the nut drops off the exhaust won't fall off.  However, it is my intention to reverse the bolts and use a lock wire at the end to prevent the nut falling off. 

 

Thanks for reading and I look forward to your views.

 

H

 

For the coil packs, use some dielectric grease (any auto parts outlet).

 

As for the plugs, the Beru plus are fine, we have also used Denso Iridium's with good success.  Yes, use anti seize, but sparingly, on the treads.

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Thanks for the reply.  The anti seize is mentioned for the threads, but I notice on the NGK site that they say the plug threads already have a coating and anything further can result in over tightening and a false torque reading.  I can see that the plugs I have taken out have anti seize on the threads and I have always used it before.  Any advance on this view?  

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Thanks for the reply.  The anti seize is mentioned for the threads, but I notice on the NGK site that they say the plug threads already have a coating and anything further can result in over tightening and a false torque reading.  I can see that the plugs I have taken out have anti seize on the threads and I have always used it before.  Any advance on this view?  

 

We always use anti seize on all plugs, regardless of brand.  Some manufacturer's do claim to have a coating for this purpose, but I know if we always apply a thin coating, we will not have a problem down the road.  We have used NGK plugs as well, and we still put a dab of anti seize on them.  Dissimilar metals can lead to difficult to repair thread damage on the alloy component.  Always better safe than sorry.

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Does it make a difference on the type of anti seize? I remember reading an article a long time ago that the type of metal being joined i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, steel requires different types of anti seize but don't recall the specifics. Or is this incorrect?

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Does it make a difference on the type of anti seize? I remember reading an article a long time ago that the type of metal being joined i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, steel requires different types of anti seize but don't recall the specifics. Or is this incorrect?

 

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success.

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How many miles on plugs and coil packs?

Johan

This is the mystery.  My 996 had a replacement engine in late 2005 within its warranty period, but I have been unable to determine when. I think it had done about 25K by that time so the car has probably done 30k on the present engine. I assume that when the new engine was dropped in it came with new coil packs.  The car also had a plug change at 45k before I bought it.  The coil packs are coded 997.602.102.00 so I assume they date from the late 2005 engine change and have done 30K. 

 

Summarising, the plugs have done 10K and the coil packs 30K.  I wouldn't normally change either the plugs or coil packs at this mileage.  However, as it's much easier to do this job with the exhausts off I thought I'd replace both. I notice that the coil packs are splitting, although they show no fault codes.   

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Does it make a difference on the type of anti seize? I remember reading an article a long time ago that the type of metal being joined i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, steel requires different types of anti seize but don't recall the specifics. Or is this incorrect?

 

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success.

 

Thanks JFP.  Is there any electrical contact lubricant recommended for the spring connectors on the central electrode at the coil pack outlet where it connects to the HT shaft?  

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Does it make a difference on the type of anti seize? I remember reading an article a long time ago that the type of metal being joined i.e. stainless steel, aluminum, steel requires different types of anti seize but don't recall the specifics. Or is this incorrect?

 

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success.

 

Thanks JFP.  Is there any electrical contact lubricant recommended for the spring connectors on the central electrode at the coil pack outlet where it connects to the HT shaft?  

 

 

 

None is needed in that area.

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