996 C2 front drop links

[rattles]

I have searched for info. but can't find the specific details I need. I am replacing the front swaybar droplinks on my 1999 996 C2, I plan to use the standard Lemforder drop links from Pelican Parts. Is there any preload setting for these. To remove them I raised the car on one side then raised the suspension so that it was in a similar position to what it would be when the wheel was on and on the ground. It was easy to remove the droplink when i did that, I am assuming that if I do the same when fitting the new part the preload if any will be correct. 

I'd appreciate any comments from people who have done this replacement.

Thanks.

[JFP in PA]

I have searched for info. but can't find the specific details I need. I am replacing the front swaybar droplinks on my 1999 996 C2, I plan to use the standard Lemforder drop links from Pelican Parts. Is there any preload setting for these. To remove them I raised the car on one side then raised the suspension so that it was in a similar position to what it would be when the wheel was on and on the ground. It was easy to remove the droplink when i did that, I am assuming that if I do the same when fitting the new part the preload if any will be correct. 

I'd appreciate any comments from people who have done this replacement.

Thanks.

 

Nothing magical here as the OEM links are not adjustable.  Tighten the link's lower (10MM) nut to 34 ft. lb., and the upper (12MM) to 63 ft. lb. and you are good to go.

[Hilux2400]

When I did my front drop links it was an easy job on one side as the part where the through bolt that clamps the shock absorber into the hub assembly turned and came out easily.  However, on the other side it would not move.  It took me quite a long time to get it to turn.  I cut off the ball joint on the end of the drop link so that I could place a socket wrench on the end of the pinch bolt. I then used a heat gun and penetrating oil. About a week before you start this job I would start spraying the ends and mid point of the through bolt with penetrating oil.  Also, when you put the new through bolt back in put some anti seize on the shaft. 

 

You should also take care that when you clamp it up the shock absorber is in the same place as when you started.  Before you start mark the point at which the shock absorber is clamped.  You can do this with tape or a dab of spray paint. It can't move far as the locating tab on the shock absorber/strut aligns with the hole where the clamp bolt goes through.  But there is enough room for slight movement which could alter your camber angle.

[rattles]

Thanks for the info. much appreciated.

[rattles]

I have the new sway bar drop link but cant work out what image 2 in the attached photo means, does anyone have an answer, thanks.

[RFM]

Image 2 is a Torx bit, in order to prevent the threaded rod from rotating when the nut is tightened. 

[rattles]

Thanks Flanders but there is no torx slot on the Lemforder drop link bolt end or on the 996 suspension that could be used to prevent rotation, I have a slim open end spanner that will hold the nut at the seal end of the drop link so will just use that. 

[RFM]

It is also a working method, depending on the brand of the drop link.