Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

No heating after engine swap

Recommended Posts

Last week I had to change my 2003 CS engine to 2006 CS engine, due to severe engine scoring in 5;6;7 cylinder. Everything now works fine, but no heating even when I turn up to HI. 

Does anybody had this problem?

no heat means one of to things:


1.  coolant electric pump isnt working (turn the heat on with the fan on the lowest notch and see if you hear the electric pump running)

2.  you have a big air bubble which stopping circulation (bleed the system...typically a vacuum bleeder will get things moving)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I can't answer your question, but I am interested in hearing more about your engine swap.  Did you do it yourself?  From where did you get the donor engine? 

Yes I did the swap by myself, took me few days. Engine was from another CS that was in accident - rear of the car was badly damaged.


And today I found out, that heating comes back after engine is at working temperature and keeping rpm @ 3000. So I guess, main water pump gets enough power then to push antifreeze around the big circle of heating unit. And aux water pump doesn't make any sound, but it did before swap. So I think it could be some wiring problems of this pump, because engine swapping was messy job and I could have pulled some wires accidentally. I will take a look this weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Wires all good. Pump works well, when I connected it to battery. 

Could it be some errors on heating system after starting engine without coolant? I had to check if it starts (for 5 seconds max.), when I bolted new engine on the place, before take it all back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I just bought a ctt and had Coolant usage, over heating at idle only, cold heater at idle until revs above 1500rpm and could here water sloshing around the car pipes that run to the back heater.

First I changed the expansion cap as it's the cheapest item, then replaced the water pump as this can wear out causing low flow. After this work was done I was topping up Coolant thinking air was bleeding but after a few cold system top ups it was clear I had bigger issues.

Suspected head Gasket was confirmed.

Now spending a pretty penny on the repair.

To help you on this one, first I suggest cold filling top ups, the system takes 18-22 litres if you have 4 zone and air can get stuck so vacuum bleed is a good idea, also if can park on a slope front facing up and leave the car overnight you may get any air out of the rear heater pipes etc. You can also remove skid plate (if fitted) under drivers (left side) to reveal two Coolant pipes which can be sqeezed to help bleed the rear heater and pipes, of course with front and rear heaters on and engine running at normal operating temp.

Assuming all Refitment was down correctly, the thermostat opens, no radiator blockage, next step is to chemical check the coolant for head Gasket failure like I suffered. Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.