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Spent some time under the car. Looking for a leak in some boost hose or a loose connection. Everything very tight. Can't find the overboost reason. While I am down I take out the turbo to intercooler hose to drain the oil. I would say 2 tea spoons of oil there after 25.000 km. The rest of the 20 liters I fill in during this time...... Burned:-)

Edited by ekstroemtj

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Please would somebody explain me the routing of of the pressure lines close to the firewall. 

 

Line 3 & 14 are connected with each other. Coming from the calve. But line 14 has a dead end. Can somebody explain the reason? Thank you

IMG_9582.JPG

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1 hour ago, ekstroemtj said:

Please would somebody explain me the routing of of the pressure lines close to the firewall. 

 

Line 3 & 14 are connected with each other. Coming from the calve. But line 14 has a dead end. Can somebody explain the reason? Thank you

IMG_9582.JPG

It is a capped off point to connect vacuum tester pump. If you are doing checking for leaks this is where to connect. 

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On 07/23/2017 at 4:45 PM, ekstroemtj said:

Something is wrong with my purge valve. I replaced the part long time ago because i had failure codes. 

After replacement the code disappeared and never came back. On top i change the wiring incl. the connector because it was really briggle. But this part is making noises. Ticking. Sounds like a valve is opening/ closing nonstop. 

 

 

Found the problem. The tube which is going from the purge valve along the injectors to the firewall had a very major crack. Solved

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Guys would like to ask your advice.

I can't find the reason for my overboost codes.

I changed almost every single pressure line which is involved. the pressure valve which is connected with pressure lines. DV valves on both sides.

Purge Valve. Connecting hose from

Purge valve. Wire connection from purge valve. All vacuum lines behind the intake manifold. And and and.

 

But I still can hear a wining whistle sound when the turbos start to work. At higher rpm the whistle is disappearing.

Any idea?

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Something else I would like to learn. When the high boost at 0.8 bar is built?

When I am accelerating from very low rpm ? Only when throttle completely open? 

 

Pressure lines: does it matter how long they are? I the original was let's say 30 cm. My replacement line is now 40 cm. Does it change anything within the entire boost system!?

Edited by ekstroemtj

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10 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

Something else I would like to learn. When the high boost at 0.8 bar is built?

When I am accelerating from very low rpm ? Only when throttle completely open? 

 

Pressure lines: does it matter how long they are? I the original was let's say 30 cm. My replacement line is now 40 cm. Does it change anything within the entire boost system!?

Turbo Wastegates must be leaking. 

 

The boost on mine is peaking around 3500 up to 5500 rpm. 

The length of a vacuum pipe wouldn't make any real difference. 

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@lewis

 

Thank you Lewis. The interesting thing, before this "oil found" story started I did not have overboost. It started since that day when i started to discover the reason for my oil spray down to the air filter housing. Can't believe that this is the wastegate

 

 

 

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The only thing I can add is check the gasket between the Y-pipe and the throttle. Mine looked OK-ish, but when I put a thin wrap of Teflon tape around the throttle side before putting it together the engine ran better (smoother idle, less dip when coming back to idle) and then ran worse when I took it off. Ordered a new gasket that will come in with my water pump. Also that plastic fitting at the bottom of the Y-pipe right under the MAP is prone to leaking on mine.

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@Zakowsky thank you mike.

 

the throttle body gasket is also new :-)

the plastic fitting down to the y pipe i replaced with a pure blue pressure hose. I was cutting out the sensitive connection and replaced it. Very easy to install and very easy to get off. See blue line in the last picture.

 

by the way, the tube is going to the firewall and is connected in the same way to the intake manifold. This connection i replaced in the same way as you maybe can see in picture no. 8.

 

 

Edited by ekstroemtj

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7 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Zakowsky thank you mike.

 

the throttle body gasket is also new :-)

the plastic fitting down to the y pipe i replaced with a pure blue pressure hose. I was cutting out the sensitive connection and replaced it. Very easy to install and very easy to get off. See blue line in the last picture.

 

by the way, the tube is going to the firewall and is connected in the same way to the intake manifold. This connection i replaced in the same way as you maybe can see in picture no. 8.

 

 

The intake Y pipe oring number 9 is probably one of the only orings or seals/ gaskets I never have replaced. Tomorrow I'm going to whip it out and take it to my trusty oring and seal shop to get a new one for a dollar or two. This may sort the idle Dip which never seems to be solvable. Also to note the idle Dip will trigger the "check tail light" fault and also almost in tandem the "four wheel drive faulty"  warning. 

All this is voltage dipping down I know but I've never been able to find why. New alternator 3 new batteries and all cables and items checked and tight. 

I figure if I can stop the idle Dip and put the battery charger on it to keep it topped up fully I can stop the warnings coming up and sell it. 

Also I now notice since the AC compressor control valve has been replaced the idle will come up to 750 like its being commanded and then can go back to 500rpm. 

Is the increase normal? I can't ever remember it increased the idle speed once warm at all. 

Screenshot_20170801-200713.thumb.png.a627650df42b32996a0c5460a10469b6.png

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You should give it a try. Like you say. 2 Dollars only.

Your AC .,.... What does it mean idle come up to 750 and come back to 500?

 

Idle increasing the moment when you switch on the AC?

 

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27 minutes ago, ekstroemtj said:

You should give it a try. Like you say. 2 Dollars only.

Your AC .,.... What does it mean idle come up to 750 and come back to 500?

 

Idle increasing the moment when you switch on the AC?

 

Well not in sequence with the AC. The AC is always on but the idle I saw it at 500 then I saw it increase. I revved the engine but it didnt go back to 500. If I select Drive or reverse gear it will drop to 500 again. 

Normally it would only be at 500 rpm regardless of anything else. 

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As per my observation I just have higher rpm if there is a vacuum problem or the electrical system is under pressure.

 

For example if the batterie is very low the engine is trying to adjust the low load by higher revs. At least in park modus.

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Maybe I should check the boot pressure solenoid? That's the part sitting at the firewall I believe

Lewis you had a eye on this?

 

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7 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

Maybe I should check the boot pressure solenoid? That's the part sitting at the firewall I believe

Lewis you had a eye on this?

 

This is a boost pressure regulator or wastegate controller more accurately. Ours is at the front of engine next to the throttle body left side. 

The one at the back of the engine is for the Divertor valves to release pressure from the turbos when you lift off the throttle and stop them from slowing down also called "turbo stall" or "turbo surging". 

Thomas did you ever get a compressed air source and simply pressurise the wastegates to 15psi and listen for leaks? I'm sure your wastegates are leaking and giving you overboost. 

Edited by lewisweller

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You said yours went back to 500 - so that is your normal idle speed Lewis? That seems low, mine is at 580 which is I believe normal. Anyway, mine has kicked up the idle only a few times but it has. It was “hot” out (in Canadian terms, so above 30C!) and the air conditioner was on max, at idle and using a lot of accessories. It jumped up to around 1100 and stayed there no matter what I did. Seemed like a normal response to increased load so never thought about it.

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12 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

You said yours went back to 500 - so that is your normal idle speed Lewis? That seems low, mine is at 580 which is I believe normal. Anyway, mine has kicked up the idle only a few times but it has. It was “hot” out (in Canadian terms, so above 30C!) and the air conditioner was on max, at idle and using a lot of accessories. It jumped up to around 1100 and stayed there no matter what I did. Seemed like a normal response to increased load so never thought about it.

Changed that Y pipe o-ring with the closest they had ID 88mm 4mm thick NBR as opposed to 87mm which is original. 

Didn't really make any difference. 

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****. But worth a try.

 

i am pretty shure its something small. But...

 

yes i did the pressure test with the wastegates. I can hear them click. And i cant hear any air disappearing. Holding the pressure

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I did it again. Didnt want to take out the compressor. Bought a can with pressured air. Connected with the pressure hoses. Can hear the wastegates when they close. Just driver side i can hear more loud than passengers side

IMG_9601.JPG

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Please a short technical lesson for me.

turbo engines are working in relation with vacuum and pressure. 

 

Regarding my overboost codes i am still hunting for any leaks in the area from turbo charger to manifold.

 

can it be a leak in any other area ? Any other vacuum leak can cause a overboost?

for the pros here this question might be stupid. For me its just learning

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Before weekend I would like to ask professional advise. My technical knowledge is limited but I have the strong will to fix the problem.

Because the current overboost problem appeared after I started the search for my oil and hesitation problem I am going back to every part I have touched in the last 12 month. For this reason I would like to ask what will be the result of the turbo vent line has a leak. What will happen? Will it effect idle? Running conditions in general? Boost? I appreciate your help.

 

I am talking about 14 and 15. Please don't care about the coloured section.

 

Thank you very much

carbon_canister_line1256774868.jpg

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