Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Okay, I had a very light rattle from the left front that I noticed only after discarding my old, poorly worn Pirelli Pzero Assimetrico tires in favor of new Michelin Pilot super Sport tires.


I went to check torque on the front strut top plate bolts. I set my calibrated torque wrench to 30 foot pounds (I know the spec is 35). All 3 nuts on the front passenger strut were fine and didn't move. The rear two nuts on the driver side were also tight.


The front most nut on the driver's side KEPT TURNING. It felt as if it was only hand tight as it didn't provide enough resistance to allow the ratchet mechanism to function at all.


I immediately stopped and tried to thread it by hand, but no dice. Another 1/4 turn and no building of resistance. Another 1/4 turn and still no additional resistance. The third 1/4 turn and the resistance DROPS.


It was at this point that I realized I was not merely compressing the rubber gasket between the top plate and the chassis, but that the stud was broken.


I removed the deep well socket and torque wench to observe that the stud was now canted. Dammit. Fears confirmed.


I can only guess that the nut was not tight and the out of balance front tires vibrated and weakened the stud through minute movement. But guess is all I can do.


So, I would love to hear that I don't have to disassemble the entire front driver's side suspension to extract that stud (the bottom of which is easily visible and accessible through the wheel well).


Is there a way to knock that stud out and then thread the new one up from the bottom without removing the strut?


I have a new nut and strut top plate on order from Pelican. The strut top plate has the three studs, which it appears one could either be pressed or threaded out and transferred to the plate in the vehicle and re-torqued.


I haven't even sat in the vehicle since this happened, much less driven it. So, I think no movement has occurred.


Help appreciated. All experience solicited.7119a370c2b8c1f6262f116d731cc73c.jpg1913fcb3c525c7e004ade605e9660a08.jpge5deed6e28140f6c6ef3a5e4cda65f73.jpg


Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk



Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Drill it out from the wheel well, bolt, nut and washer it. Or drop the suspension and replace the top hat with the one you ordered. My preference is the latter.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

If it were just one, I would drill it from the top and replace with a bolt and flange washer.


It's not hard to replace the strut top mounting and it will come out with just the removal of the caliper, as otherwise you will overstretch the flexible brake hose.  You will also need to disconnect brake pad warning wire and the ABS warning wire as these are connected to the back of the strut.  Jack up both side of the car so that the sway bar is evenly loaded and release the bottom and top swivels from the sway bar drop link.  The top through bolt from the sway bar drop link clamps the strut in place.  You will need to make sure it is free and remove it.


After you have done the above drop the whole lot down after having released the three top mount nuts..  Mark the position of the flange nuts so that the top link goes back in the same location.


You will now need two items: a coil spring compressor and two ratchet straps.   Compress the coil spring and as you do it keep the compressors tight against the spring with one ratchet strap applied horizontally.  When this is done you will see that the top mount protrudes from the spring as it is held out by the shock absorber.  Now use the other ratchet strap to compress the shock absorber to reduce the height of the turret, pushing the top mount back into the spring.  The strut will now be short enough to swing out below the wheel opening in the wing, without removing any other suspension components.  


You can now take out the strut from the hub carrier and put on the new top swivel. 


It is possible to replace the top mount without taking the strut out from under the wing.  Bit it's very awkward and you risk jamming fingers if the spring releases suddenly and clamps your hand under the wing.  


Remember to wear gloves and safety goggles.




Remember to apply rubber grease between the cone washers and the rubber bush.  It stops them squeaking.


Edited by Hilux2400
Rubber grease addition
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Drilled out from the top, starting with a small pilot bit. Ended with an 8mm drift punch that knocked the rest of it out of the bottom.


If the new stud is super difficult to remove from the new top plate assembly, I'll grab some grade-8 M8 bolts with a double stack of heat treated washers to use on the bottom, paired with the factory nut on the top.






Thank you to everybody who had posted thus far. I greatly appreciate your input and all of it was taken into consideration, I assure you.


I'll post final pictures when I get the bolt/stud reinstalled.


Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk





Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.