Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

I just used a pvc pipe fitting that I got from Home Depot. Note the depth that the current RMS is pressed in and match it by tapping the new seal in, making sure to get it in as straight as possible.

Obviously the actual tool would be better if you can get it..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

That tool is up there with hen's teeth.  Only Porsche ever made them and a new one will set you back north of $600, but it is a work of art and an absolute pleasure to use.  Just be sure to find one with the correct adaptor if you are using the PTFE design seal as it sets to a different installed depth than the Viton seals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I performed my RMS by constructing a tool out of PVC. I used a 3" slip coupling (no stop in the inside diameter) and 3" sch 40 pipe. the pipe acts as a stop against the crack shaft flange and the coupling edge presses the seal in. If I remember correctly the seal is set into the block by 13mm. I glued the 3" pipe into the coupling at the proper depth to allow the coupling to extend the proper depth past the edge of the block. I then cut the assembly to a total length that allowed the flywheel bolts to be used to press in the seal. Carefully slide the seal over the crankshaft until the seal touches the block all the way around. place your tool over the crankshaft, start two flywheel bolts across from one another, and slowly/evenly tighten the bolts until the pipe contacts the crankshaft flange. This insures a square installation at the proper depth. I also used the recommended sealant on the outer part of the seal before installation.


I hope this helps because I destroyed a seal by trying to just tap it in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.