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My 1998 Boxster suddenly had hot start issues where if left in the sun here in Texas for a few hours would then crank but not fire unless you kept cranking and pressed the throttle. No issues when starting cold. It had thrown some evap leak codes a few times and a secondary AI once but nothing consistent and would also suffer from idle issues if hot start was hard.
Having read many threads I decided that it was not fuel pressure related as in my experience fuel pumps either work or they do not and the same applies to the associated relay.
I read someone blocked off the valve under the lhs air intake plenum and when I did this the hot start problem disappeared but gave other idle issues.
I decided to replace this valve and in the process also decided to clean the throttle body and iacv when I discovered oil in the aos and j tube the aos was replaced 3 years ago.
Having replaced the valve and the aos the car appears to be running better than ever.
I had no white smoke issues or oil cap pressure test problems and the old valve was in the closed position when I removed it so that may not have been an issue.
This whole situation had gone on for many weeks and also gave air leak codes in both banks but using a smoke generator revealed no issues.
I am starting to prepare my car for a track day at Chuckwalla valley raceway at the end of the month, and I was told that the car as it sits has oiling issues? My car is a 2003 Carrera. I bought the car last year with 74k miles and immediately did the following: LN IMS bearing, Waterpump, coil packs, spark plugs, all filters and fluids, clutch + flywheel and a stock AOS. In anticipation of the event, I am going to do an oil change from M1 0w-40 to the Joe Gibbs dt40 oil suggested by Jake Raby along with fresh filters. Is there anything else I need to do to not have oil starvation? Is this issue blown out of proportion? does the 2qt sump extension make that much of a difference? will it affect the streetability? I am running 200tw tires.
My 2004 Carrera coupe has developed a leak. It started after I flushed my cooling system. Rather sure it is around the AOS/associated lines. I've read various opinions about the difficulty of removing the AOS. But what I am interested in doing is just replacing those lines. Any experience or opinions on doing this? Specifically, is it even possible? Especially if this can be done without removing the intake manifold?
Also I am only finding the upper oil separator coolant hose. What about the second one?
I'm looking for advice in maintaining my well kept 2000 Boxster.
In 2003, I bought a 2000 base Boxster with 14,000 miles (manufactured 11/99, 2.7L, MT) from a Porsche dealer in Massachusetts, where I primarily reside. The car now has just under 40,000 miles. So I've only driven it 26,000 miles in 13 years, and I have had no major problems. I had maintenance done by the dealer initially for about 5 years, but then switched to a more local independent mechanic with a good reputation, as the dealer was over an hour's drive each way.
Last year I bought a condo in Naples, FL, and decided to drive the car down and leave it there. My mechanic replaced the engine drive belt as a preventive measure before the drive south, and the car was excellent for the long ride. Other than that, over the years, I've mostly only had routine and timely oil changes, plugs, and filters. I replaced the top and the tires a couple of years ago. The CEL did come on at times about a year ago, but it could not be reliably diagnosed. The mechanic suspected an O2 sensor. But the light since went off and all seems well since. Sometimes I can get a puff of smoke when I start it, especially after it was sitting for an extended period, but this resolves when the car is driven more regularly. I believe I have a good storage protocol for the times the car is idle.
In recent years, the AC has been declining. The mechanic added refrigerant periodically, which worked for perhaps a year at a time. I am due for that at least, if not more at this point, as there is no cold at all now. In Massachusetts, this was less of an issue, but now I want to get that more correctly resolved. The AC seems more noisy than it was previously (up front?), so I imagine there's a leak or other issue.
Outside of the AC problem, the car is operating perfectly as far as I can tell. I drive it about 5 weeks a year while in Florida. It is in excellent cosmetic condition, barely a scratch, and always garaged. I'd like to continue to operate the car in this manner indefinitely for the next several years, and hope to spend increasingly more time (winter) in Florida as time passes. Does anyone have any advice for me as to how I should proceed with this car? It looks and drives like new. I'm not a mechanic. I hear and read about the IMS bearing, the AOS, and other issues. I've not had the brakes or clutch done, but they seem fine. Even the battery is from 2003 and the car starts right up.
So I appreciate any advice moving forward. Should I have some of these things dealt with preemptively, instead of waiting for a more expensive failure? I'd like to bring the car in for maintenance and hope I can find a conscientious and competent mechanic to assist me. Does anyone have any recommendations for a local mechanic and/or the dealer in Naples? Would anyone recommend going to an "AC specialist" type place for that one particular issue over a mechanic or the dealer?
Happy Thanksgiving, Folks!
Appreciate your thoughts on this situation.
I'd been noticing infrequent leaks - looks like oil but doesn't seem as thick or viscous, from the rear suspension area of the driver's side.
I checked the oil levels on both the dash indicator (varies between at the MAX level to mid-way between MAX and MIN levels) and the dipstick which is higher than mid-way.
I'm not so sure if this is really oil but is brownish and smells like a mixture of dirt and water.
I peeked under the car and have attached photos of the leaky area and it's cleaner sibling on the opposite end on the passenger's side rear suspension.
1) What is this part that is leaking? Is that really oil?
2) Can this leak be plugged or should the part be replaced?
3) If it is the struts, time to swap the rears out too? I'm looking at the fronts soon, so wondering if it is time to replace all 4?
Here is the leaky part - on the rear of the driver's side.
Here is the clean part on the rear end of passenger's side
Thank you for your valuable time here during the holidays.