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Found 11 results

  1. Hi All I was fairly sure that my erratic idling on my 2000 model Boxster S - never less than 1100 r/min and often shooting up intermittently to 2000 r/min - was caused by a dirty throttle body or MAF sensor. After cleaning the TB it made no difference and having caused an air leak on one of the rubber sleeves where it attaches to the plenum, I decided to give the job to my local specialist. The problem was resolved by repairing a hole in the brake vacuum hose, caused by the hose chaffing against the bodywork. I suppose that with 19 years under its belt and 147000 km I could expect something like this. The brakes work better too - less muscle required to stop the beast! Thought Id share...
  2. Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997. The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight. Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal) I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything. No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
  3. My 1998 Boxster suddenly had hot start issues where if left in the sun here in Texas for a few hours would then crank but not fire unless you kept cranking and pressed the throttle. No issues when starting cold. It had thrown some evap leak codes a few times and a secondary AI once but nothing consistent and would also suffer from idle issues if hot start was hard. Having read many threads I decided that it was not fuel pressure related as in my experience fuel pumps either work or they do not and the same applies to the associated relay. I read someone blocked off the valve under the lhs air intake plenum and when I did this the hot start problem disappeared but gave other idle issues. I decided to replace this valve and in the process also decided to clean the throttle body and iacv when I discovered oil in the aos and j tube the aos was replaced 3 years ago. Having replaced the valve and the aos the car appears to be running better than ever. I had no white smoke issues or oil cap pressure test problems and the old valve was in the closed position when I removed it so that may not have been an issue. This whole situation had gone on for many weeks and also gave air leak codes in both banks but using a smoke generator revealed no issues.
  4. Hi guys, I’m writing from Italy, owner of a 2000 986 S, 84.000 km on the clock. First of all, I have to apologize for my poor English. Recently I had my cluster bulbs replaced thanks to the good DIY guides found over here, so, thank you so much for helping us all with your knowledge and patience. In order to do the job, since my car features the optional alarm, I previously disconnected the negative cable of the battery while leaving the ignition key on position 2 as read on the board in order to avoid the siren to scream (is this correct, BTW?). With the cluster back in place, without touching the key nor the gas pedal, I connected the negative cable and found everything was fine, then I waited for a few minutes with the key still in position 2 thus letting the e-pedal to reset itself, and eventually removed the key and left the place. Two days later I picked the car up but the engine was really strange at idle. No fault lights on the cluster but no power at all, it hardly reached 1600 – 1900 RPM with the aircon switched off even if I floored the pedal. The whole car shaked violently but the engine didn’t stall. If I pushed on the gas pedal, it revved a little making a smoother noise and behaving normal, but just up to 1600 – 1900 RPM. It seemed there was something at work avoiding the engine to rev. Tried several times to do the 1-minute procedure, tried to fire it up and swich it off a million times, then called the local PD but received nothing but a “shame on you for having disconnected the battery”. Called an indi whose suggestion was to blindly replace the MAF (...even though the problem was showing itself at idling and not over 4000 RPM). Eventually phoned another indi; this nice chap came, attached a small diagnostic device to my car and told me there were no error codes displayed. After half an hour the engine got warm and everything was perfectly normal, so he invited me to drive the car for some thirty minutes and so I did. Problem is, though, yesterday the issue came back again and didn’t go away even after a million 1-minute procedures, dozens of key-on-0-to-key-on-2. I haven’t got access to a Durametric. When I set the key on position 2 I hear a very low “buzz” which goes on forever, until I fire the engine. I’ve got a GPS from my Insurance Company on the positive pole which I cannot remove. What do you suggest? I’m really struggling… Shall I disconnect the negative cable and leave it aside for a few days, as read over here? What must I do when disconnecting the battery in order to avoid the alarm to wake everybody up? Thank you in advance for your help, I really need it! Cheers, G. P.S. If you reckon it would help, I can record the engine noise and attach a file...
  5. Hi I just bought a cayenne 3.2 V6 2006 base model, on my way home car was running fine, second day morning went to put some gas and after getting home car idle was rough Stop the engine and start back on now the car start goes to 1000 rpm for 5 seconds and then start shaking going to 500 rpm or less for about 30 seconds then car it self try to correct and goes to 1100 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then back to the bad idle. If i press de gas pedal right after the start car goes fine without any issue to 4000 rpm for the same 5 seconds and then complete loose the power, back to the 500 Or less rpm. When the car try's to correct back to the 1000rpm I can gas up to the 4000 rpm fine, is like a loop. I have a Autel Scaner shows 1 code in the getaway code 532 power supply what i have done: new battery new coils and spark plugs check fuel pump all good check the spark in the coils fix 2 vacuum pipes I have no idea of what else I live in Panama and I'm 600 miles away from the only Porsche dealer. I'm a mecanic but out of ideas now any help will be much appreciated thanks
  6. H! I have an 996 - 99mod manual 3,4L. When i start up it seems like it misfires. It`s kind of a knocking sound. Sometimes it stops on idle. When i push the throttle for a ouple of seconds, it smokes a lot and then the knocking goes away. After that, I let it Idle - but it slowly rises from 800rpm to around 2000rpm, then it drops to 800rpm again and do the same thing over and over again, Does anybody have a clue? This is the fault codes i found: P1601 -CAN timeout - instrument cluster P0600 - CAN timeout Tiptronic P0102 Hot film MAF sensor (erased and didn`t come back) 60 - Central locking limit pos 13 - Left door secured, but not locket 14 - Left door secured, but not locket 16 - Signal from airbag 1 - Doors secures and terminal 15 on 43 - passenger - side release stuck 44 - Driver-side release stuck 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
  7. 2007 C4S with Tip and 58,000 miles My CEL came on yesterday, due to codes 2187/2189. After a brief search on the internet, loose oil/gas caps came up as possible causes. So I cleared the codes and tightened the caps, but the CEL came back a few hours later. I also just noticed last night that, when idling in Park, it revs at ~1,100. In Drive with the break on and the car not moving (no pressure on the gas pedal) the idle revs drop to normal (around 700-800). Also the idle is a little rough. Any ideas what causes this? Thank you all.
  8. Hello everybody, recently has the engine of my Cayenne V6 ( Bj. 2004) sounds like a diesel. The sound is subjectively from the left side of engine ( in direction of travel). Coupled to the noise is uneven running in the state . The error occurred suddenly and without warning after I turned off the engine and about 2 minutes later started again. I have read the following Durametric 2015_03_14_12_55_03_Cayenne Logfile.pdferror codes: P0016 Position camshaft to the crankshaft Bank 1 - Upper limit value exceeded , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0300 Misfire detection checksum error - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0305 Misfire detection cyl. 5 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0303 Misfire detection cyl. 3 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0304 Misfire detection cyl. 4 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light The measurements show strong deviations between the actual and setpoint ignition (partly > 16 ° ) and on all cylinders misfiring. Only on cylinder 4 absolutely no misfire is detected ( feather edge . But does not the evaluation ? ). At a higher speed, the deviation is significantly lower , but as soon as I go by the gas engine almost dies off. The data I 've attached a table as pdf. The engine is 140 thousand kilometers. At 100 TKM the complete timing chain drive incl. Camshaft adjuster was renewed ( elongated chain). Since then, the engine ran flawlessly and without any disturbance. I have checked the throttle and the LMM expanded and completely cleaned. The timing chain tensioner I have also expanded and it appears OK ( Piston moves freely ). The oil is inside for 9 tkm , spark plugs for 40 thousand kilometers. A car mechanic told me in a rough diagnosis everything points to disguised timing out ( timing chain ). In this context : Can the intake manifold (sorry I just remembered no better word , meaning the part in which distributes the air and is passed to the motor ) Remove without expanding the engine(to remove the valve cover ) ? Seems rather hard installed ? Does anyone have an idea on what the error or the running behavior might even suggest ? Timing chain would of course be the meltdown ... motor out etc .... Would be glad if I could get some input. Thank you in advance in advance
  9. Need everyones thought on this one. My04 S. Over time my idle rpm starts to drop and pulse when stopped. eventually it will throw a PSM and using Durametric I have P2186 Throttle body sensor. I cleaned the throttle body, cleared the codes and she purrs like a kitten. Slowly day after day she will start to drop rpm coming to stop and start the whole cycle again. it takes 3 to 4 weeks. I have checked throttle body, coils, plugs, fuel rail. I don't know what else to check?
  10. New to Porsche and this website. Just bought a pre-owned 2002 911 C4S with only 21k miles. New RMS and IMS bearing. However, idle is rough. Is this normal?
  11. Hello everyone. I've had these two faults appear three separate times now, all within about 100 miles of each other, and all when the car has been idling for a short period. P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2) I've searched the forums, and it seems the likely cause is the MAF, but I wanted to post my Torque Pro logs of when the CEL occurred to see if any of you could help me pinpoint the problem. For what it's worth, I just changed my spark plugs last weekend (after having seen the CEL twice) and inspected the ignition coils, but no problems were found and the CEL appeared again this morning. My MAF looks clean to the eye, but I'm hesitant to use electrical contact (no residue) cleaner on it unless it's absolutely necessary. The first Torque Pro log below is from just before the CEL occurred when I pulled up to a stoplight. The second log is from a few seconds after the CEL occurred as I was pulling away from the stoplight. Log #1: Pre-CEL Time: 04-Apr-2012 09:02:15.096 Speed: 0.979mph Bearing: 341.0 G(calibrated): 0.00141555 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%): -1.5625 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%): -0.78125 Engine Coolant Temperature(°F): 184.99999595 Engine Load(%): 2.35294127 Engine RPM(rpm): 691 Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s): 6.25 Throttle Position(Manifold)(%): 2.35294127 Fuel used (trip)(gal): 0 GPS vs OBD Speed difference(mph): 0.35807136 Transmission Temperature(Method 3)(°F): 184.99999595 Acceleration Sensor(Total)(g): -0.01302952 Acceleration Sensor(X axis)(g): 0.00555366 Acceleration Sensor(Y axis)(g): -0.03887559 Acceleration Sensor(Z axis)(g): 0.01943775 Log #2: Post-CEL Time: 04-Apr-2012 09:03:56.093 Speed: 5.597mph Bearing: 2.0 G(calibrated): 0.06632715 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%): -3.125 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%): -7.8125 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%): -0.78125 Engine Coolant Temperature(°F): 197.59999561 Engine Load(%): 10.1960783 Engine RPM(rpm): 823.5 Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s): 9.75 Throttle Position(Manifold)(%): 14.11764717 Fuel used (trip)(gal): 0 GPS vs OBD Speed difference(mph): 0.62137121 Transmission Temperature(Method 3)(°F): 197.59999561 Acceleration Sensor(Total)(g): 0.03373463 Acceleration Sensor(X axis)(g): 0.17216341 Acceleration Sensor(Y axis)(g): -0.31378168 Acceleration Sensor(Z axis)(g): 0.13189937 Thanks for any help you all can provide!
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