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99 boxster tick/tap noise

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Hi All, 99 boxster base. Just buttoned up the engine after replacing chain ramps and vario solenoid, RMS,IMS,AOS. Well.. now I have a noticeable tick /tap which sounds like its coming from the cylinder head. I also never got any oil reading on the dipstick after adding almost 8 quarts of oil....where did it go? I ran the engine on and off for about 5 mins. Was afraid it might be a timing issue but was meticulous in checking and rechecking cam position and allocation so I'm hesitant to let it run for fear of doing any damage.(if it's not done already) Used Castrol 10w-40 synth blend. Very upset ….hope I didn't totally bend my engine all up. Any thoughts very much appreciated. thanks v

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If there is no large leak, the amount of oil you have put into the engine will be too little. Pour 1/4 can at a time until the max. on the dipstick is reached. Probably the tick in the engine come through too little oil in the engine (valve train), a completely empty engine after disassembly/reassembly will have to contain more oil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes I did finally get a reading on the dipstick before I started the engine. The timing did indeed slip, was off on bank 1 where the noise was. Was not a pleasant sound,,thought maybe it was the tappets so I ran the engine with some revs to pump up the tappets(idle only with some revving). Then realized the timing slipped.Reset the timing, fired it up and sounded fine ..noise gone BUT..idled up to temp thru a blinking CEL then it changed to a solid CEL. Codes were;


Po 304-5 and 6

Po 150

Confusing why it's showing misfire on cyl 4 5 and 6 when the noise and timing issue was on cylinders 1 2 and 3 (bank 1). If I bent anything up shouldn't it be misfiring on bank 1? This is making me hopeful that maybe I didn't cause any head damage by running the engine with the tapping noise thinking maybe I had to pump up the tappets. I installed NGK IRIDIUM plugs should I switch to OEM plugs, I'm going to double check coil pack connections maybe I crossed them but I don't think the wire length would allow that. I also replaced the 10w-40 with 0w-40. The Po150 code is o2 for bank 1. Any idea where to go from here? Please chime in. v

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I did have the intake off with injectors pulled out (not out of the rail) on Bank 2 maybe they're not seated would that cause a misfire w blinking CEL?  Also the front bolt on the fuel rail where it bolts to the intake was stripped. Hopefully this is a totally different issue than the lost timing on Bank 1.

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I checked the electrical connectors for bank 2 which I did have off at one point ...they were good. Checked for vacuum leaks, was able to tighten up the tubes going to plenem, leads going to correct plugs. Car was idling ruff ...lots of stalls, low idle 500 rpm's. Then it remained running at about 1000rpm's or so. Removed oil cap w no change,removed AOS tube....stalled. AOS is new. Disconnected MAF and car ran better, revved it sounded good. Didn't run good when re-connected, heard a sound like hitting a spoon on a pot when revved. I assume a misfire. No CEL, I have a weak batt so many times I have to do a quick charge to start, so previous CEL's were cleared. Put code reader on although there was no CEL and there were pending misfires on 4-5-6 and emission relevant but CEL never came on! I'm stumped at this point. I might try swapping out the IRIDIUM plugs to OEM. I did not gap the plugs ,from what I understand they are pre-gapped .8 mm. Don't have a durametric so can't read Cam Deviation. It sounded and revved better w/o MAF but I don't know if I want to start replacing everything and chasing my tail unless I'm sure. I did have the snorkel out and cleaned it on the outside, I did touch the MAF with my finger to see if it was dirty. Then of course read not to touch it. Please chime in. Again, I'm concerned mostly with the possibility of bending valves when I was running it with lost timing but I'm really thinking it is a different issue now. thanks v

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OK...more info. Swapped out plugs for OEM, and noticed 1 plug in bank 2 looked as if it were never installed, pristine, leads me to believe no gas or spark is getting to the cylinder(dah... didn't note which cylinder it was,noticed after the fact). Found 2 leaks in the exhaust, 1 where end of cat is clamped to muffler pipe(just need to tighten the clamp) the other is a small hole in the cat right at the O2 sensor seam, Bank 2. Started it up with ruff running at first but sounded ok after a minute...revved a bit and got a misfire/pop sound but no CEL. Checked Code reader and got a P0130 and P0150 pending for the 02 pre cats. Compression test as follows:
Bank 1 145/150/150 starting with Cyl closet to front.
Bank 2 195/195/180 starting with Cyl closet to front. At first I thought this wasn't that bad considering there close relative to the banks. But not too sure. What next?? Thanks V
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Well....Got rid of exhaust leaks,Installed new MAF ...no stalls at start up....no misfires on 4-5 or 6 anymore....no o2 codes. NOW I'm getting misfires on 1-2 and 3 which I never got before.Codes are as follows:





Misfires on 1-2 and 3 Emission relevant.  Can I drive to a mechanic or should I flatbed it?? Fuel trim bouncing around Bank 1  -0.8 to -1.6  Bank 2  0.08 to 1.6 that was using Torque Light. Got some other strange Codes with torque light Cam Shaft Pos A plausable BMW. Don't know what the Fuel trim should be....does this mean one bank is rich and the other lean?? Any good indies in Northern Bergen County NJ?? Thanks V

Edited by vza
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  • 3 weeks later...

WOW...I replaced my weak battery. Engine ran good...changed coolant and had to rev to 5000 RPMS  to 'burp" the engine.....no CEL. Could it have really been the battery!!!


Does any one know what the fuel trim should be at idle. I'm using Torque Lite and looking at fuel trim for banks 1 and 2 sensor 1. Mine both read -24% at idle and went toward 0% when revved. Thanks....very happy so far with the outcome ....hope it stays that way. V

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