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2000 Boxster 986 2.7L died while driving and won't start (no crank).


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Need some help here please.

My 2000 Boxster 986 2.7L died on me while driving, the car all of the sudden turned off, the head lights and the instrument panel are lit and work, but nothing else does. It acts like the battery is dead but its not. The power windows do not work nor do the power locks. My radio works and the convertible top works also, I am also able to move the seats back and forth and the rear spoiler extends and retracts.  My key fob has not worked for some time now, but i always opened the car manually and never had any problems with it running. when I turn the key to start the car all the lights in the dash lite up except the check engine light, and nothing happens, no crank.

This is what I have done so far.

 

  • Replaced the battery with a new one. even though the previous tested good. 12.37v
  • I replaced the key switch (electronic part), no change.
  • bypassed the clutch safety switch, no change
  • Took the driver seat out, inspected the area for water or moisture, there is none. its completely dry.
  • Checked the fuse in the immobilizer unit and its good.
  • put a multimeter and tested the voltage on both sides of the 15AMP fuse in the immobilizer and only got a reading of .56v, no sure if that is correct or if it needs to be 12v.
  • checked every fuse in the fuse panel and they are all good.
  • checked the relays in the rear trunk and they are also good

I suspect that the power is not reaching the immobilizer unit. I tried connecting my OBDII scanner and it says it cannot communicate with the car. I always used this scanner in this car with no problems and I checked it in my other car and works fine. Also the LED indicator light on top of the dashboard does not work, and with the key fully opened the check engine light does not light up.

 

Is there anything in between the key switch and the immobilizer unit that can have a fuse or can cut off power to the unit if defective?

Is there anything that I am missing here?

 

 

Any help with would be greatly appreciate it.

 

 

 

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Any aftermarket electronics? Any thing that connects to or tap power from the OBDII port?

 

It does sound like the immobilizer. Have you checked if the start lock relay gets ground from the DME when you crank?

 

Have you tried jumping the power pins of the relay to bypass it to see if the starter spins when you crank?

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I pulled out the start lock relay, (7) and the DME relay (1) and tested them, the relays are good. 

I did not jump it, but had  my son turn the key while I place my fingers on the relays, and none are clicking.The spoiler ones do work  (3 & 10) and they are all in the same bank. Not sure if they use the same ground.

 

How would I test for ground there?

 

There is no aftermarket electronics connected. 

 

What would connect and tap power from the OBDII port anyways?

 

 

 

 

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Did your son also press down the clutch (or you jumped the clutch switch) while he turned the key? If not, the relay won't activate.

 

There are many ground points but those will not be the first things to check.

 

Nothing should be powered from the OBDII port but some people may tap power there to install aftermarket electronics.

 

Could you recheck fuses c1 to c4 and e1?

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yes he did

clutch was pressed.

I am not getting power to the immobilizer, and therefore anything behind that is also dead. The OBDII port stems from the immobilizer. 

I need to find out what is before the immobilizer that could be cutting off power.

 

The diagram in the Bentley book shows an induction coil in the ignition lock and electronic immobilizer signal converter attached to the steering lock cylinder.

Is there any way those could be cutting off the power? 

could these be tested?

 

can the actual key lock cylinder be defective ?( i only replaced the electronic part)

 

 

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The power for the immobilizer should come from fuses B8, E1 and F5 so you may want to check for voltage there as well.

 

The ignition pick up coil is only for reading the transponder inside the keyfob and it should not cut off power to the immobilizer.

 

Check voltage on fuse B8, which is switched power so that should verify your ignition switch.

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F5 is under the dash so it will be difficult to get to (I just noticed it now). Check C2 instead because it gets power from F5.

If those all have 12v, the immobilizer should have power. BTW, how do you know the immobilizer does not have power?

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Can you confirm one thing? Check the VOLTAGE on fuses C1 to C4. They should all be 0v because they get power from fuse F5.

If true, some consumer(s) may be shorting out the circuit. Should be easier to pinpoint.

 

You can try the following:

- Remove fuses C1 to C4

- Get a smart fuse and rig up something to connect to the F5 slot (as a replacement of fuse F5)

- If there's a short, the fuse will light up

- Now put in C1 to C4 one by one and see if any trip the smart fuse

- That should narrow down which circuit to do further tracing

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello again

It seems that I got a new problem after I was able to solve the fuse one.

When the car was towed I was not there and tow truck driver did not find the tow hook for the car and pulled it up on the flatbed by hooking up to somewhere in the front end of the car. I think he may have pulled it from one of the tie rods because I have a huge vibration now.

Does anyone know how I can tell if the tie rod is slightly bent? if its the inner or outer. I doesn't seem so to the naked eye and the wheel does not have any play.

 

Any help would be appreciated it. 

 

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  • Moderators
51 minutes ago, 986yellow00 said:

Hello again

It seems that I got a new problem after I was able to solve the fuse one.

When the car was towed I was not there and tow truck driver did not find the tow hook for the car and pulled it up on the flatbed by hooking up to somewhere in the front end of the car. I think he may have pulled it from one of the tie rods because I have a huge vibration now.

Does anyone know how I can tell if the tie rod is slightly bent? if its the inner or outer. I doesn't seem so to the naked eye and the wheel does not have any play.

 

Any help would be appreciated it. 

 

Put the car on an alignment rack, you will know in seconds.

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I took it to an alignment shop, they lifted the car and the guy told me that the tie rods are not bent and that the alignment would not cause the car to shake. The only thing the saw is that the right front strut its bad, it leaked out the fluid. I also hear the vibration and rattle from the right front.

Can a bad strut make the car shake?

 

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2 hours ago, 986yellow00 said:

I took it to an alignment shop, they lifted the car and the guy told me that the tie rods are not bent and that the alignment would not cause the car to shake. The only thing the saw is that the right front strut its bad, it leaked out the fluid. I also hear the vibration and rattle from the right front.

Can a bad strut make the car shake?

 

 

Possible, depending upon how bad the strut is.

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