Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Good evening all,

 

I was able to get out and run the car yesterday with the durametric plugged in. I know most lean to replacing the IMS, but at a cost of 3-4k and addressing only a single mode of failure (though quite possibly the most famous), I wonder if it wouldn't be better to start setting aside funds for a F6 or RND "new" engine.

 

I have read monitoring camshaft deviation values and their rapid fluctuation at different RPM is one documented way to assess the viability of the IMSB/IMS. I've hooked the car up three times. Bank 1 likes to hang out at -6/-6.5 (and is out of spec). Bank 2 likes to hang out around -2.8. I would welcome any feedback on the logs I captured this weekend. I don't think I should be overly concerned, as there was no acute fluctuation across different RPMs and the change was in one direction. Thank you!

 

Additional details: MY00 cabriolet; No prior IMSB replacement; Probably 15-30 small metal flakes (.3-1mm) in the oil filter.

 

 

2019_07_07_10_54_54-formatted (2).xls

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
10 hours ago, mjsupp09 said:

Good evening all,

 

I was able to get out and run the car yesterday with the durametric plugged in. I know most lean to replacing the IMS, but at a cost of 3-4k and addressing only a single mode of failure (though quite possibly the most famous), I wonder if it wouldn't be better to start setting aside funds for a F6 or RND "new" engine.

 

I have read monitoring camshaft deviation values and their rapid fluctuation at different RPM is one documented way to assess the viability of the IMSB/ IMS. I've hooked the car up three times. Bank 1 likes to hang out at -6/-6.5 (and is out of spec). Bank 2 likes to hang out around -2.8. I would welcome any feedback on the logs I captured this weekend. I don't think I should be overly concerned, as there was no acute fluctuation across different RPMs and the change was in one direction. Thank you!

 

Additional details: MY00 cabriolet; No prior IMSB replacement; Probably 15-30 small metal flakes (.3-1mm) in the oil filter.

 

 

2019_07_07_10_54_54-formatted (2).xls 369 kB · 1 download

 

I would have to agree that you appear to have the early signs of an IMS issue, but I cannot agree that your best path forward is to replace the bearing.  If any of the metal flakes you see in the filter are ferrous, your engine would fail prequalification for an IMS retrofit if it were in my shop.  LN and Jake Raby have for years cautioned against retrofitting engines with ferrous debris already circulating in them as the debris has a high probability of getting into the open retrofit bearing and tearing it up.

 

Check the metal flakes with a magnet, if any are picked up, you would be better off looking for another engine.  Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
1 hour ago, judgejon said:

Exactly so.  

And it’s a retrofit I’ve never regretted and would highly recommend to all for peace of mind.  Permanent Solution LNE seems best way to go.  

 

The IMS Solution is by far the only permanent fix for this issue, and is also the only retrofit that can actually be moved from one engine to another. It is what I use in my personal vehicles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I was unaware the IMS Solution was susceptible to failure. My other thought had been to install the Solution.

 

There was ferrous metal in the filter, though not all of it was. Attached is a pic I have after combing through the filter.

 

So at this point, the decision is save for a new engine (and run the one I have until failure); or rebuilt the existing? Anyone know what the going figures are for this?

Magnet grab.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
13 hours ago, mjsupp09 said:

Interesting. I was unaware the IMS Solution was susceptible to failure. My other thought had been to install the Solution.

 

There was ferrous metal in the filter, though not all of it was. Attached is a pic I have after combing through the filter.

 

So at this point, the decision is save for a new engine (and run the one I have until failure); or rebuilt the existing? Anyone know what the going figures are for this?

Magnet grab.jpg

 

The LN IMS Solution unique design makes it the least susceptible to failure because it uses freshly filtered oil for lubrication, and as a point of fact, no IMS Solution had ever been reported as having failed.  That said, all other retrofits are "open" style bearings, meaning they use unfiltered splash oil for lubrication, which would allow the metal grit you have found to get into the bearings, shortening their lives.  At the same time, with that grit circulating in the engine, it is only a matter of time before it claims one of the lifters, cams, or even the rod or crank bearings.

 

These engines are known to generate small amounts of aluminum debris in their oil, which (as long as the amounts remain small) is not an item of concern.  Ferrous debris on the other hand is much more abrasive and destructive, as well as being a sign of a major component starting to fail.  Once ferrous grit starts to appear, it only gets worse.

 

As for replacements engines, you need to shop you local market to see what is available, you may be able to find a good engine in the $4-5K range; a rebuild on the other hand is going to be expensive, perhaps it the $10-15K range depending upon what needs to be updated or replaced.  Engine removal and installation costs would be on top of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Jake has a video on Youtube that shows how to use an endoscope thru the oil sump to access if cylinder scoring is, or has, occurred.  I would suggest that you should check it out and determine whether you want to do that. Scopes are quite cheap and accessing the sump is quite easy.

 

cheers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.