Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
By Kevin Bryck
Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does.
When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists.
I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated.
I have a low oil pressure problem on my 2003 996 C4S RHD / ROW, Tiptronic. Owned since 2012, oil change at least annually first with Mobil 0W40, more recently Fuchs or Liqui Moly (green) 5W/40. Looking for help from anyone who has seen something similar - I've looked at various threads on this topic but couldn't find the exact symptoms.
Last oil change was done in Sept 2018 with the Liqui Moly green. About two months later, the "oil pressure too low" red light started to come on intermittently. Either on start-up, or sometimes when slowing down or waiting at the lights. It doesn't stay on forever, just flashes and goes. Had the oil pressure sending unit replaced (its been faulty for a while and yes I know I should've replaced that way earlier.. now not sure if this has been masking the problem at hand).. After replacing the unit, I assume the gauge is accurate and it shows:
- On cold start-up: gauge stays at zero for first 5-7 sec. The red low oil pressure light flashes on, then the needle moves up to 3 bar max
- On warming up, the needle will drop and eventually settle on 0.8 bar (i.e. after 10 mins and water temp rises to normal operating temp)
- Oil pressure does NOT rise on acceleration - i.e. when rev to 3-4K, the needle doesn't move at all. It used to move with the revs
I've also had the oil pressure relief spring / piston / gasket changed (and oil topped back up of course) with no difference. I'm thinking of the following next steps (in order of complexity and $$):
1. oil change / filter change, check filter for metal and ensure it isn't collapsed / crushed
2. mechanical gauge to confirm that oil pressure is indeed low, and it isn't an electrical misreading
3. inspect oil sump - check for blockages in the oil pickup tube
4. drop engine - check oil pump for failure
5. rebuild engine - have reached out to a few builders who have said it could be crankshaft bearings worn, engine no longer to hold pressure. I guess this would be worst case.
I hope it ain't 4 or 5, but something has worried me about this problem.. Why I say above this oil pressure problem might have been masked by the faulty sending unit? My gauge used to rise to 1.5 bar even before the engine fired up but with ignition on. My indy looked at that and laughed "how could there be oil pressure when the engine isn't on!"... So when the engine did start the gauge showed 4.5 on cold start, and it would drop to about 2.x when at operating temp. So.. if my sending unit was faulty and was adding an additional1.5 bar of pressure to the gauge..
Anyone experience similar? Thanks.