Mobil1 0W-40 Discontinued???

[1999Porsche911]

Concur

[LVDell]

Thanks Jim.

[plima]

I'm sure the the Mobil 1 EP family will work just fine. I do want to repeat what a few very knowledgeable Porsche and BMW technical folks have said: the 0w rating is very helpful in keeping the initial cold start wear down; in particular the hydraulic lifters and variocam mechanisms work best when cold with the 0w oils. Except for race-only cars, the vast majority of wear occurs in the first minute or so from cold start. For my last car, BMW M5, BMW recommends synthetic 0w-30 and for my current car, GT3, Porsche recommends synthetic 0w-40.

[LVDell]

My thinking is that a 0W-50 oil would be the best protection?

[plima]

Theoretically yes. I don't think Mobil-1 or the EP version come in this very wide viscosity range. Also, some of the oil chemistry needed to get wide viscosity range comes by adding various additives to the oil. It isn't necessarily better at doing its lubrication job just because it has a wider viscosity range. Again, I don't think you can go wrong with the 10w50 EP, but for my $0.02, I'd stick with Porshce's recommendation (in my case Mobil-1 0w-40)

[LVDell]

As I am. 0W-40 till technology changes. If Mobil 1 made a 5W-50 then I would buy it. But as long as Porsche and Mobil are standing at 0W-40, so am I.

I do appreciate all the input from you guys! I am very educated now to oil and its properties. Learn something new everyday.

Cheers,

Dell

[1999Porsche911]

You can make the argument that the 0W gets flowing faster than, lets say, a 15W, but that would only be in very cool temperatures. Your oil is circulating almost instantly anyway. However, the benefit of the 15W versus the 0W is that more oil will "clink" to surfaced when the engine cools down. This in itself provides all the necessary protection you need until oil is pumping.

We can go around and around with this forever. Maybe the safest thing to do is to never turn the engine off.

Edited June 26, 2005 by 1999Porsche911

[LVDell]

Never turn the engine off???

Now that is an idea I like! :)

[Hroussard]

Folks, these concepts are very well understood in the aviation engine business were you can buy pre-oilers to "squirt under pressure" oil through the engine so that when you start it ,you have less or almost zero metal to metal contact because oil will have dripped down from the moving parts and left them basically bare.

It also is a fact that these engines will generally only attain TBO ( Time between Overhaul ) IF the engine has been run OFTEN and ( funnily enough) HARD.

That means flying several times per week , such as in flying school use. FYI generally TBO is 2,000 hours or 12 years whichever comes first ,after which you will need to disassemble the engine, inspect the parts and replace to overhaul specs ( or new if you want to spend the money), reassemble, run for 50 hours on mineral oil to seat and then change to straight weight oil or multi viscosity oil. For aviation, as you are generally flying up in cold air there is a huge disagreement as to which oil is the best. These engines are generally 360 cubic inch , 4 cylinders, flat four and air cooled , the larger engines are up to 540 cubic inch and have 6 pots. And so you get an idea... they most always run at 70% to 100% of power. You Porsche engine will generally run at 25 to 30 percent of maximum power. Porsche built such a 360 cubic inch engine for the Mooney aircraft and that engine worked very well indeed, unfortunately they decided to get out of the business and I believe that, it this point in time, almost all of the engines have been replaced ( on Porsche's cost for a great deal I may add) by LyCo or Continental engines.

But..in general. oil will remain on the moving parts for several days before it's all dried up or dripped down into the oil pan, so the best thing to do for your car is to use it as your daily driver, fire her up, keep the revs down until the engine is HOT and let her rip from then onward.

Cheers

HarryR

C2 1999

[ar38070]

212?  I assume that is F?  Do you have any documentation that you could point me towards.  Thanks everybody! 

Thanks for helping me learn about this stuff so I am not just doing what I am told by a piece of paper but rather making informed decisions.

BTW, I would be curious to know what the cup cars in the GT class are running (just the Porsche's) during those grueling long days at high RPM's???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

As I said in my earlier posts they are running 0w-40. These are pros running GT3R's and RS's.

[LVDell]

I figured as much but wasn't sure what type of "pro racer" you were talking about.

[alexcwt]

Where did all of you see Mobil1 0w40 in the users manual.

Page 172 attached.

"use only engine oil...and viscosity grades of SAE 10w-40 or higher. Preferably you should use Synthetic..."

[Loren]

Where did all of you see Mobil1 0w40 in the users manual.

Page 172 attached.

"use only engine oil...and viscosity grades of SAE 10w-40 or higher.  Preferably you should use Synthetic..."

This will vary depending on the model year. For instance, my 1999 Carrera says to use 15W-50 Mobil 1.

There is an official "Approved Oils" TSB from Porsche (that is updated every year) that states Mobil 1 approved oil is 0W-40. That TSB also has 8 pages of approved oils from many companies. Contributing Member can view that TSB (as well as others) here online.