Conv top R&R

[Chawaga]

I removed the convertible top transmissions (1997 old style) and cut back the cable sheathing. All seem to be working properly. Cables spin transmissions without any problem.

I disassembled both transmissions and have one question. At what rotation point do you set the large "half gear" in the transmission housing to begin the syncronization? There appear to be markings inside the housing. Does the gear line up with any of these markings in full up position?

The top is full up. I'm concerned that the half gear will either not have enough teeth to fully open/close or will run off the end if not started in the correct position.

Thanks for the great thread on this cable stretching problem. It has saved me lots of diagnosis time.

Dave

[Tool Pants]

There are 2 sets of alignment marks on the front of the transmission, which are not mentioned in the shop manual. We tried using them years ago but Mark has his own way of timing the transmissions.

I asked one of the mechanics at the local dealer, but forgot what he said.

Guess I may have to figure it out because I need to time my transmissions.

[painless]

I have a top stuckin the down position and cannot release the passenger side black connnector...the factory tool is primitive and I fear doing irreversible damage.

Help

[Tool Pants]

There is no trick to this. You need brute force to separate the joints.

The black pushrods open and close the clamshell. When the clamshell is closed the sping loaded pushrods are under a great deal of force, holding the clamshell down very tight so the soft top does not rattle around. When the clamshell is open a few inches there is no tension on the push rods and you can disconnect them from the male ball joint on the V-lever by hand.

Get a pry bar or a long thick screwdriver and try to separate it. Watch out for yourself when the joint separates.

[painless]

Tool Pants,

OK I got the top and clamshell loose. There is no power to the top motor... the switch works, the relay clicks(both the old one and a new one, emergency brake light on. Is there another microswitch or controller? Wire exits top space into electronic hell behind trunk. What next?

painless

[painless]

Hi,

Does anyone out there know where, other than dealer, I can takee my top problems to. The electronics are beyond me to figure out. I'm in San Mateo, CA.

Painless

[mangelich]

There are 2 sets of alignment marks on the front of the transmission, which are not mentioned in the shop manual. We tried using them years ago but Mark has his own way of timing the transmissions.

I asked one of the mechanics at the local dealer, but forgot what he said.

Guess I may have to figure it out because I need to time my transmissions.

Last week went to put the top up on my '98 986, the top stopped in mid-span, not electrical or motor, it's mechanical. Upon inspection:

• 1 -broken red plastic ball joint cup
  
• 2 -Cables Drive cable showing in the motor end
  
• 2 -Old transmissions
  

I jumped on this forum, and found great information, thank you all!

I am now headed to the dealer to see what they have in stock. Please check me to see if my plan is correct, the parts I will be searching for are as follows:

• 2 -986 561 717 03- new reinforced cables (non sided) 1” longer than the original but still useful for the old style transmission.
  
• 2 -Ball joint rods with the white connectors.
  

The one missing item is timing of the transmission, I'm not sure what to make of this can someone tell me what the rough steps are, start, stop top position etc.....

Thanks!

[mustang66]

hi tool pants,

i have a 97 boxster and my passenger side red plastic joint just broke. i was able to remove the arm with the broken plastic joint by unsrewing the single bolt.

1. you mentioned that someone makes a metal joint instead of plastic, can you tell me where to order one? i assume that's better then the plastic.

2. once i have the new joint, can i just screw it onto the old arm and snap it back on the ball? any other tricks/steps?

3. do i need to worry about timing of the transmissions when i put everything back? i did not unsnap the driver side red plastic joint for the top, just the joint for the cover. does that mean the timing is still good?

thanks in advance. my first repair on the boxster, any help is appreciated.

Edited July 21, 2007 by mustang66

[Chris_in_NH]

hi tool pants,

i have a 97 boxster and my passenger side red plastic joint just broke. i was able to remove the arm with the broken plastic joint by unsrewing the single bolt.

1. you mentioned that someone makes a metal joint instead of plastic, can you tell me where to order one? i assume that's better then the plastic.

2. once i have the new joint, can i just screw it onto the old arm and snap it back on the ball? any other tricks/steps?

3. do i need to worry about timing of the transmissions when i put everything back? i did not unsnap the driver side red plastic joint for the top, just the joint for the cover. does that mean the timing is still good?

thanks in advance. my first repair on the boxster, any help is appreciated.

you should start a new thread for this. also, i sent you a PM with answers to your questions.

[mustang66]

hi chris_in_NH,

i just started a new thread per your suggestion. would you mind repost your answers to my questions over there? for the benefit of others?

thanks for the quick reply. i will continue over at the other thread.

[iatros]

Any thoughts on how to repair the foam water channel under the clamshell? Is that a replaceable part? Any part # would be helpful too.

When my caps shattered (2003?!) the rods rotated into the foam and left a nice crack where rain always finds its way into the cockpit.

Thanks!

[1schoir]

Any thoughts on how to repair the foam water channel under the clamshell? Is that a replaceable part? Any part # would be helpful too.

When my caps shattered (2003?!) the rods rotated into the foam and left a nice crack where rain always finds its way into the cockpit.

Thanks!

Iatros:

You can repair the foam liners (Porsche calls them "water drip pans") by applying silicone sealant if the rips or tears are not too bad. Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant (Item #81158) works very well for that purpose.

The water drip pans can also be replaced. The part numbers are 986 561 805 03 and 986 561 806 03 for the left and right side, respectively, and they list for about $78.00 each.

In order to replace them, you are going to have to remove the V-levers, the black plastic shield behind them, and the convertible top transmissions.

Be careful not to operate the top if you disconnect the pushrods from the V-levers or you will have extra work trying to re-synch the transmissions.

You also have to remove the two large plastic slotted screws on each side at the rear, near the clamshell arms.

Finally, you will have to remove the three bolts that hold the convertible top frame to the body on each side. Those three bolts are self-centering so you can reinstall the top frame without worrying about getting that part "just right". If you remove the three bolts on each side, DO NOT pull the top completely off the car, as I believe the top frame will still be "connected" to the B-Pillar microswitch. You can just pull the top frame back an inch or so and then lift it up far enough to be able to slip the water drip pan out from under each side, one at a time. Also, if the top frame will not budge after you have removed the three big bolts, take a close look for either one or sometimes two phillips screws (on each side) which must also be removed. The phillips screws will be located horizontally and going from the outboard side toward the middle of the vertical metal plate through which the big bolts go (in other words, same orientation and vicinity as the big bolts).

If you replace them, please post some photos for future use.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited January 11, 2009 by 1schoir

[1schoir]

Any thoughts on how to repair the foam water channel under the clamshell? Is that a replaceable part? Any part # would be helpful too.

When my caps shattered (2003?!) the rods rotated into the foam and left a nice crack where rain always finds its way into the cockpit.

Thanks!

Iatros:

One other note. Be very careful to monitor the amount of water that infiltrates your cabin. If it's excessive and finds its way under the seat, it will start to corrode or completely fry the central alarm unit under the driver's (left side) seat. If that happens, you are looking at a major $$$$ repair.

Regards, Maurice.

[heavyevy]

Help,

My clam shell pop out of channel right side when lowering conv. top. check out all the great issues and solutions. r&r cables with repair of outer rubber shell.

Adjusted, lube, replaced bushings, lowered top and drove this way for a week or so. When i closed the top just before the closed position two loud pops from left rear side conv. compartment. closed center latch. top is up . However when I tried to lower just a click heard in center rear conv. compartment. Also light on dash indicates top in open position along with air spoiler lite on.

Thanking anyone in advance ! :)

[1schoir]

Help,

My clam shell pop out of channel right side when lowering conv. top. check out all the great issues and solutions. r&r cables with repair of outer rubber shell.

Adjusted, lube, replaced bushings, lowered top and drove this way for a week or so. When i closed the top just before the closed position two loud pops from left rear side conv. compartment. closed center latch. top is up . However when I tried to lower just a click heard in center rear conv. compartment. Also light on dash indicates top in open position along with air spoiler lite on.

Thanking anyone in advance ! :)

What year is your Boxster?

Sorry, I see from your profile that it's a 1998. In that case, it sounds as though your half-moon gear (at least on the left side if that is all you heard popping) has gone past the last tooth because your top transmission on that side is out of sync.

You first have to determine whether the click that you are now hearing in the center rear of the compartment is coming from the relay that is clicking on and off when it is meeting with too much resistance. The easiest way is to reach back to the rear firewall (put your arm underneath or trough the roll bar and detach the black vinyl apron from where it is attached onto the one bracket on each side. Then, press the convertible top button alternating between the up and then the down direction while observing the cables with which you are now intimately familiar. If you see the cables "flexing" each time you press the button, along with that click, proceed as follows:

The easiest way to resolve this, since you now have some experience with removing and repairing the cables from the sides of the electric motor, is to spin each side transmission by inserting the inner speedometer-type cable on each side into a cordless drill (lowest torque setting) so that the top will start to come down and then you can access everything much more easily. Spin one side in the correct direction until the clamshell starts to come up on that side, then alternate sides, 1 or 2 inches at a time until the clamshell is up to give you better access.

Now, all you have to do is to re-synch the transmissions so that the clamshell opens and closes evenly. If you re-synch them correctly the "convertible top open" light will go out when the clamshell closes down on that little lever (which operates a microswitch) on top of the electric motor.

If you cannot easily re-synch them and you still get the loud popping sound (half-moon gear going past the last tooth and then being snapped back by the force fo the black hydraulic pushrod), then you are going to have to remove the V-levers and the transmissions, open them up and re-position the half moon gears so that they don't go past the last tooth. My guess is you won't have to do this at this time.

Let us know how you progress.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited January 11, 2009 by 1schoir

[crios]

Does anyone know the Part# for the Black cables? Mines are just about to break!

You lower the top a few inches so that the clamshell has started to come up. Look under the clamshell and you will see a black cable on each side, that has a ball joint on the end. Disconnect the ball joint by pulling it - it takes some effort. Each cable has a ball joint at each end of the cable - I disconnect the bottom joint.

There is a cloth dust cover held in place by 2 hooks - unclip it. Then you fold the rear of the top forward so that the plastic window is folded in half.

We call this the service position as that is how you get to the lid for the engine.

[1schoir]

...

Does anyone know the Part# for the Black cables? Mines are just about to break!

...

Crios:

Porsche calls them "tension ropes" or "cabrio tension cables".

Part # 986 561 191 02

Same part for right and for left side.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited February 14, 2009 by 1schoir