Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

AeroKit II Rear Spoiler Installation


Recommended Posts

According to Porsche technical installation guide :

"Retrofitting is also possible for vehicles starting with model year ’97 (V) to ’02 (2). For these vehicles, a new rear lid must also be ordered"

Mine is a 2000. Are the differences in the rear deck between a pre and post 2002 car that significant enough to warrant a new one? This will really addup to my cost :( I hope there's a way to get round this...

Edited by clubhead
Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to Porsche technical installation guide :

"Retrofitting is also possible for vehicles starting with model year ’97 (V) to ’02 (2). For these vehicles, a new rear lid must also be ordered"

Mine is a 2000. Are the differences in the rear deck between a pre and post 2002 car that significant enough to warrant a new one? This will really addup to my cost :( I hope there's a way to get round this...

Hello Clubhead. The rear spoiler for the Aerokit2 can be installed on pre '02 models. The problem with these model year cars is that the rear deck lid has a brace that runs right though the area where the mount goes on the spoiler. You might want to checkout pete's boxster board for more info. I remember a guy there with a white boxster that had the full body kit and explained the procedure. Once on the website you should be able to search the archives and find the write up. JES

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
... I remember a guy there with a white boxster that had the full body kit and explained the procedure. Once on the website you should be able to search the archives and find the write up. JES

I've searched through the entire archive in PPPB but still can't seem to find it.

Does anyone here has the rear AeroKit II spoiler installed? I'm looking for exact measurement from the bottom edge of the trunk to the start of the 'foot' of the spoiler. Basically, how far above from the edge of the trunk should I mount the spoiler.

There's only about 1 car locally here with the rear spoiler installed but I forgot to take that measurement the last time I saw it in the car park :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Back in the day when body kits and spoilers were all the rage, I installed a lot of spoilers on some really ugly cars. In about 50% of the cases there were braces for the trunk lid running right where the spoiler would be attached to. Many of these spoilers were universal so they never hit a spot on the trunk with no bracing. It's no big deal however.

Put masking tape on the paint before you place the wing on it so you don't scratch it up. Center the wing on the lid and mark it where you want it. Measure and double check to get it straight and centered. Don't trust your eye, trust your measuring tape, but look at it too to make sure it's "seems right"

Draw around the mounting point of the spoiler onto the tape so the part that will eventually sit on the lid of the trunk is clearly outlined on your masking tape. Lift off the spoiler. You should be left with a whole buch of masking tape and a couple of ovalish pencil marks the shape of the base of the spoiler.

Measure the mounting holes to the base of the spoiler then repeate those measurements onto the masking tape of the car. Basically you want to know exactly where in relation to the base the mounting holes are and translate that onto the outline on the masking tape on the trunk. This is the most critical part, it must be right.

If you do screw it up you can ovalize the holes you will shortly be drilling in your trunk lid to create some "play" so all the bolts will line up through the lid.

Drill a small say 1/4" hole in the lid in your four or six mounting points of the spoiler. Probablly 2 per side, so 4 holes. Just make em small to start. Make sure you drill with the masking tape on the lid still. THen put something thin (like speaker wire) up through the holes with the spoiler sitting on the lid again and make sure you hit your mark, just feel for the holes in the bottom of the spoiler kinda thing.

Then take a hole saw and cut the under side of the lid with a hole saw say about 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch. This will allow the head of the screw and you screw driver to go though it onto the flat part of the steel as if there was no bracing there.

Finally enlargen your mounting holes to the correct size based on your mounting hardware and sit the spoiler back on and tighten it down to test it first. If everything lines up remove the spoiler peel off the masking tape. If one screw it hard to go in, round out the other holes to give some extra play, that should allow everything to line up. The tape should keep the paint from getting scratched through the process and the bit from wandering or paint chipping etc. You should be left with 4 perfect holes in the top of the lid, and 4 holes on the underside, with the braces cut out much larger to accomodate the head of the screw.

Put some pain in the screw holes so it doesn't rust and let it dry over night. Then install your new spoiler and away you go.

Hope that helps. Honestly it's not that hard and once you have a look at it you'll have no prob.

Edited by 986Jim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.