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Removal of CDR-220 Becker and Alarm


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I have read on the forum that if you remove the CDR-220 Becker system and fit another system then when you lock the door the Alarm will cause a Beep --A little like leaving a door open

The thought is that there is a wire in the Becker unit that tells the alarm that its still there - And if its not then the alarm causes the beep - Ie I have been stolen.

Does anyone know if this is actually the case - Ie when I remove the Becker and replace it will I have an annoying horn beep every time I press the button and lock and arm the car ..

thanks

Edited by thebairdybunch
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You can also put some real sturdy tape on the left side of the new radio in the same spot as the plastic pad on your Becker unit was. Best is to use the same kind of plastic pad since the contact arm which you can see in the the left side of the radio bay tends to vibrate trough tape material. Happened to me - after a few months I suddenly had the horn go off everytime I locked the car. Another advantage is that this will keep the alarm active and it will still go off when somebody tries to steal your radio. (More important on cabs though since the motion detector might be off while the top is down.)

Thorsten

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i plan to upgrade to an aftermarket headunit. contrary to most, i actually prefer an audible warning that the car is armed and locked when i push the remote on the fob. will i experience my horn going off everytime i go through a bump if i dont tape off the portion mentioned in this thread? :( TIA

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  • Admin
i plan to upgrade to an aftermarket headunit. contrary to most, i actually prefer an audible warning that the car is armed and locked when i push the remote on the fob. will i experience my horn going off everytime i go through a bump if i dont tape off the portion mentioned in this thread? :( TIA
The radio alarm wire goes into a connector so there is need to tape it unless you cut (or remove it) from the connector.
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i plan to upgrade to an aftermarket headunit. contrary to most, i actually prefer an audible warning that the car is armed and locked when i push the remote on the fob. will i experience my horn going off everytime i go through a bump if i dont tape off the portion mentioned in this thread? :( TIA

No, you will just not be able to tell anymore if any other surveilled contact (hood etc) is open since the horn will always go off when you lock the car.

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Has anyone tried painting a coating of plasti-dip or some similar insulator on the area normally occupied by the plastic pad? Seems like that might work.... just a thought.

Joe

Edited by Sky_King
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  • 1 month later...

I replaced my CDR220 with another deck, and I simply unplugged the brown alarm wire. Problem I'm having is the alarm is going off periodically when I lock the car - probably every 1 out of 3 tries the alarm will sound. I've taped the alarm wire thinking it might have shorted somewhere, but the problem persists. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Derek

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I replaced my CDR220 with another deck, and I simply unplugged the brown alarm wire. Problem I'm having is the alarm is going off periodically when I lock the car - probably every 1 out of 3 tries the alarm will sound. I've taped the alarm wire thinking it might have shorted somewhere, but the problem persists. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Derek

If the wire is all brown then that is a ground wire.

The radio alarm wire is brown with a blue stripe.

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I replaced my CDR220 with another deck, and I simply unplugged the brown alarm wire. Problem I'm having is the alarm is going off periodically when I lock the car - probably every 1 out of 3 tries the alarm will sound. I've taped the alarm wire thinking it might have shorted somewhere, but the problem persists. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Derek

If the wire is all brown then that is a ground wire.

The radio alarm wire is brown with a blue stripe.

Hi Loren

Sorry about that. I is the brown wire with blue stripe that I pulled from the left side of the radio mount. And the alarm doesn't chirp when I arm it, but it will sound off maybe 10 seconds after being armed. Should I be grounding the brown/blue striped wire? Perhaps it is a charge build up that needs to drain? I'm not sure but it is driving me nuts.

Derek

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  • 2 years later...
You need to have someone check for alarm faults with a PST2 (or PIWIS) or Durametric Software. I think there is a fault code somewhere there...

I have the same problem in my Boxster where i removed my dead CDR 220 and installed a "Blaupunkt Bremen MP74 US". I paid $600.00 AU for this unit and the salesman said i would just have plug n play!. What the?. Now i have a Prosche that i can not drive because i can not lock it. Every time i lock my Boxster i get a "beep" (1) indicating i left something unattended. After a while the alarm sets off, it can be after an hour or a couple of days.

My CRD 220 died after killing two Porsche Batteries because the unit was drawing 100 milliamps while the car was locked.

I gave up on the Porsche battery and installed a maintenance free Century.

Sent my CDR 220 to Becker for repairs....they quote was $600.00AU....what the! ....paid $160.00AU just to get it back un- repaired. What can i say about Becker or the head units they make.....you make up your mind.

Thanks Abbiy.

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I have the same problem in my Boxster where i removed my dead CDR 220 and installed a "Blaupunkt Bremen MP74 US". I paid $600.00 AU for this unit and the salesman said i would just have plug n play!. What the?. Now i have a Prosche that i can not drive because i can not lock it. Every time i lock my Boxster i get a "beep" (1) indicating i left something unattended. After a while the alarm sets off, it can be after an hour or a couple of days.

My CRD 220 died after killing two Porsche Batteries because the unit was drawing 100 milliamps while the car was locked.

I gave up on the Porsche battery and installed a maintenance free Century.

Sent my CDR 220 to Becker for repairs....they quote was $600.00AU....what the! ....paid $160.00AU just to get it back un- repaired. What can i say about Becker or the head units they make.....you make up your mind.

Thanks Abbiy.

Did you tape the alarm contact or tape the side of the radio or even cut the wire? If you didn't you're just seeing the system behaving as designed.

Thorsten

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  • 1 month later...
You can also put some real sturdy tape on the left side of the new radio in the same spot as the plastic pad on your Becker unit was. Best is to use the same kind of plastic pad since the contact arm which you can see in the the left side of the radio bay tends to vibrate trough tape material. Happened to me - after a few months I suddenly had the horn go off everytime I locked the car. Another advantage is that this will keep the alarm active and it will still go off when somebody tries to steal your radio. (More important on cabs though since the motion detector might be off while the top is down.)

Thorsten

thanks, this was very useful

simple fix for something I would never have worked out myself

worked a treat

cheers! :D

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  • 2 years later...

I have the same problem with the alarm .... the alarm went off again and again

so i disconnect the serien and the horn because i was afraid that same day i would find

my car scater into little pices around...(angry neigbors!!)

anyway the problem started after i replace the original radio with an alpine CDE-113BT

and the fault code i get was 49 k-lead

is the doing of that little wire on the left of the radio????

anyone know's what is the k-lead means and how to fix the problem ???

Petros

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  • 3 months later...

Gentlemen

Hope somebody can help me here.I've searched and understand what the problem is but don't understand why my fix didn't work

2002 Carerra 2 3.6. ROW specifications.

Last owner installed an Alpine stereo. Since I've had the car it will beep once and the interior lights will come on for 20secs when I lock it via the remote. Research pointed to the stereo wiring.

Last night I took the stereo out and sure enough found that there were two wire which had been cut. One was blue and one brown (bit dark to tell what colour stripe was on them).

I left the stero resting on the centre console (still attached to the harness) and seperated the two wire from the harness. Tried locking the car via remote and it worked great - all normal. I was really pleased with myself.

I insulated those two wires pretty well, kept them out of the way, taped the rest of the harness back up and put the stereo back into the DIN compartment.

Locked the car with the remote and it went back to beeping once, interior lights on for 20secs.

What have I missed here ??? I'm so frustrated. Any advice suggestions would be most welcome.

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:welcome:

A single beep means at least one alarm zone is "open". It could be the radio, it could also be the center armrest, or the front or rear lids.

The specialized Porsche scan tools like Durametric, a Porsche PST2, or Porsche PIWIS tester will all identify the exact area that is causing the fault (beep).

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Hi Loren and thanks for the welcome.

I'll check with Durametric (I bought one) and see what it says but I am 100% certain it is the stereo wiring.

What I don't understand is why when I take the stereo out and remote lock the car the alarm functions fine but when I put it back in it gives me the beep

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An update.

Looks like my radio alarm is still connected. I realized this by not just taking the stereo out but also the "cage" in which it sits. I could then see the contact arm on the left side.

Due to the after market stereo design I decided to insulate the contact arm rather than the stereo.

So far it's worked. Fingers crossed and thank you to this forum

Edited by Karl996
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everyone

I'm back. So it looks like I had two problems. The first was the single beep, interior lights on for 20secs when I locked the car using the remote. This has since been reolved by insulating the stereo contact as mentioned above.

Since I thought I had solved the problems I started locking the car using the remote (previously I would do a lock, unlock and let the car just lock itself).

The alarm is now triggerring randomly. Sometimes it can be within 15mins of locking and sometimes up to 2 hours. There appears to be no pattern to it.

I hooked up Durametric after the last episode and got the following:

61

Central locking limit position

Unlock not reached

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

33

Interior sensor faulty

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 4

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

14

Right door secured but not

locked

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 1

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

54

Radio receiver defective

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 13

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

59

Central locking limit position

Secure not reached

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 12

Since Durametric does not let me clear alarm codes I'm assuming that the next time it activates the frequency counter will increase by one and that will be the culprit.

Any thoughts or suggestions anyone ?

Many thanks in advance

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