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bleeding air in radiator


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#1 porsche34

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Posted March 11, 2010 - 07:46 PM

Hello folks I would like to know how to bleed the engine coolant in my 1999 Boxster. I did not find any bleader near the radiator to bleed the air coolant Help will be greatly appreciated Thanks Robert


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#2 1schoir

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Posted March 11, 2010 - 08:00 PM

Hello folks

I would like to know how to bleed the engine coolant in my 1999 Boxster.

I did not find any bleader near the radiator to bleed the air coolant
Help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Robert


Robert:

The only bleed valve is the one located in the trunk, on top of the coolant tank (under the thin black plastic trim cover).

The easiest and most thorough way to bleed the coolant system in the Boxster is by using a vacuum tool, such as the Airlift by UView. It's the same tool sold by Porsche. The UView tool does not come with the Porsche sticker, but costs only about $100 on Amazon, as opposed to about $500 from Porsche.

If you don't want to go that route, you can bleed the system manually, but it takes a lot more effort and the result may not be as complete.

You can start by getting the rear of the car jacked up as high as possible to "burp it". Driving around with the bleeder valve in the UP or open position for a few days helps get some of the air out, but be prepared for it to dump a little coolant a few times before you get the air out.

Go to pedrosgarage.com. I think he has a manual procedure in his DIY section.

Regards, Maurice.
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#3 Sputter

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Posted March 12, 2010 - 02:17 PM

It would be a good time to consider getting the Bentley's repair manual, though Pedro's instructions are virtually the same as the manual. It's simple to do, but the vaccum is the best route as mentioned by 1schoir


Hello folks

I would like to know how to bleed the engine coolant in my 1999 Boxster.

I did not find any bleader near the radiator to bleed the air coolant
Help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Robert


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-- 02 Boxster S

#4 jmatta

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Posted March 17, 2010 - 01:42 PM

See below...for some reason I can't delete this double post!


Edited by jmatta, March 17, 2010 - 01:49 PM.

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2002 Boxster S
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#5 jmatta

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Posted March 17, 2010 - 01:46 PM

I changed my coolant last spring since I was installing the LN low temp T-stat. I found driving the car under various conditions for few days with the bleeder valve open worked just fine. I would check the level periodically and top off as needed; there was no spillage in my case, either.


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#6 porsche34

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Posted March 17, 2010 - 02:26 PM

That is exactly what i did i let the bleeder open for a few days and top it by 2 or 3 times. Works great Thanks everybody..... great Robert


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#7 mcmike27

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Posted March 22, 2010 - 08:22 AM

J, question....I need to replace the water pump this spring and was also going to do the t-stat. I was looking at using the LN low temp one but our local Porsche dealership says to out the 'stock' 180 deg unit it. We have some hot summer days here in Pa like you do in Chi...how has your experience been with the LN unit? Any CEL lights or noticeable differences in the operating temps? Your input would be great before I spend the $170.00 on the low temp unit. Regards, Michael I changed my coolant last spring since I was installing the LN low temp T-stat. I found driving the car under various conditions for few days with the bleeder valve open worked just fine. I would check the level periodically and top off as needed; there was no spillage in my case, either. [/quote]


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#8 JFP in PA

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Posted March 22, 2010 - 09:00 AM

J, question....I need to replace the water pump this spring and was also going to do the t-stat. I was looking at using the LN low temp one but our local Porsche dealership says to out the 'stock' 180 deg unit it. We have some hot summer days here in Pa like you do in Chi...how has your experience been with the LN unit? Any CEL lights or noticeable differences in the operating temps? Your input would be great before I spend the $170.00 on the low temp unit.

Regards,

Michael

I changed my coolant last spring since I was installing the LN low temp T-stat. I found driving the car under various conditions for few days with the bleeder valve open worked just fine. I would check the level periodically and top off as needed; there was no spillage in my case, either.


We have the LN stat is several customer cars; I also have it in my personal car as well. The car will run quite a bit cooler at any given ambient temp than it would with the OEM stat (which only begins to open in the 185-190F range, but is not fully open until 205-210F), and will cool back down to a lower temp if it gets hot, such as being stuck in traffic for a bit (be aware that the dash gauge is notoriously inaccurate). One of the biggest advantages it brings is that it lowers the oil temps as well, which is good for both the engine and the oil. I would ignore the Porsche dealership's comments; after all, Porsche uses a similar stat in their "performance oriented" models like the GT2 and GT3..........


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#9 zft325

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 07:22 AM

That is exactly what i did i let the bleeder open for a few days and top it by 2 or 3 times.
Works great
Thanks everybody..... great

Robert


hi robert, if i open the bleeder for a few days you mean to say i dont have to go through the entire bleeding procedure?. just leave it open? thanks
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#10 Loren

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 07:50 AM

Minor leaks and parts replacements usually do not require the vacuum filler. If you do a complete drain or coolant replacement then you will need the vacuum filler. When I added the 3rd radiator to my car I just opened the bleed valve and drove the care normally. I checked and topped up the coolant daily. When it stopped needing coolant - bleeding was done. I then closed the valve - in my case it took about 3 days. BTW... Cup Car racers drive with the bleed valve open all the time.


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#11 zft325

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 01:45 PM

Hi. ok ill try that today, the shop changed the water pump,but they said they bled the system already, i always get the coolant level blinking after driving for a couple of hours.do i take out the bleeder valve completely or just let it slightly open? how do you go about that again? sorry really a newby on this, thanks


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#12 Loren

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 01:57 PM

Just use the clip to fix it open - there is a membrane so there should be no leakage. It is either open or closed.


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#13 zft325

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 06:26 PM

ok, i see a pin that loosens a plactic that locks in the middle if you put it in that position? is that the open position when its in the middle? thanks


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#14 Loren

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 06:30 PM

This is the "up" bleed position. bleed.gif

- Zoom Active -

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#15 1schoir

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Posted March 23, 2010 - 06:34 PM

ok, i see a pin that loosens a plactic that locks in the middle if you put it in that position? is that the open position when its in the middle? thanks


zft:

Here is a photo of the bleed valve in the "normal" position:
Bleeder Valve Assembly 024.jpg
- Zoom Active -



Here is the position that you should put the little lever in to keep it in the "open" position, so that you can ride around with it like that for a few days to bleed the air out:

Bleeder Valve Assembly 023.jpg
- Zoom Active -


Regards, Maurice.
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#16 996noob

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Posted December 12, 2010 - 11:00 AM

Noticed something interesting on my car. When it is hot, the valve is "up" by itself, even though the metal wire is in the down position. Is this normal?

Lately, my car has been running hotter than normal, so I was wondering if the bleeder valve is abnormal and has something to do with it.


ok, i see a pin that loosens a plactic that locks in the middle if you put it in that position? is that the open position when its in the middle? thanks


zft:

Here is a photo of the bleed valve in the "normal" position:
Bleeder Valve Assembly 024.jpg
- Zoom Active -



Here is the position that you should put the little lever in to keep it in the "open" position, so that you can ride around with it like that for a few days to bleed the air out:

Bleeder Valve Assembly 023.jpg
- Zoom Active -


Regards, Maurice.

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#17 Loren

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Posted December 12, 2010 - 11:11 AM

Noticed something interesting on my car. When it is hot, the valve is "up" by itself, even though the metal wire is in the down position. Is this normal?

Lately, my car has been running hotter than normal, so I was wondering if the bleeder valve is abnormal and has something to do with it.

I would start by checking (and likely cleaning) the radiators. Much more common than a bad bleed valve.
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#18 996noob

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 07:20 AM

Car was running fine and cool, and never ever overheated. Recently noticed a leaky water pump. Car sat on the hoist for 2 weeks waiting for the pump. Did vacuum fill of more than 24 liters. Now the car runs hot. I do not think the radiators could have gone bad over the two weeks of inactivity. Is that possible? Only thing different I noticed, or maybe I never notived before, was that the bleed valve is up when hot even though I don't pull it up.


Noticed something interesting on my car. When it is hot, the valve is "up" by itself, even though the metal wire is in the down position. Is this normal?

Lately, my car has been running hotter than normal, so I was wondering if the bleeder valve is abnormal and has something to do with it.

I would start by checking (and likely cleaning) the radiators. Much more common than a bad bleed valve.

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#19 Loren

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 07:27 AM

Ok - thanks for the additional information. You could have water pump impeller (broken parts) in the thermostat or stuck in water passages (if the impeller was broken). If that was the case they should have back flushed the system. If the impeller was intact then suspect the thermostat. By the way you can run with that bleed valve open and it will not cause any ill side effects - Cup Car drivers do this all the time. If the valve is leaking then it could cause loss of coolant - but not overheating.


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