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The easiest and probably cheapest way as well is to add a small amount of coolant compatible UV dye to the system and run the engine for a bit. The dye will leave a highly visible (with a UV light source) trail to exactly where it is coming from. We use this technique regularly in the shop to trace difficult leak sources.

and another underneath all three hoses at the manifold (rotated to get the proper orientation -- I think)

Another pic of the engine side of the tank manifold, below the rightmost hose at the manifold (I think). . .

I have a 1998 Blue/Grey Boxster with 82,000 miles. The other day I got a low coolant warning, I topped it up (always keep coolant in the trunk), when I pulled back into the garage later, there was a puddle of coolant on the passenger side and at or just in front of the rear wheel well. I jacked it up to inspect from underneath and there was coolant along the rear fender-to-body pinch seam on that side, as well as a little on the rear suspension arm(s) and to the front near the underside valence cover below the thermostat-water pump. The water pump and thermostat were replaced 18ish months ago, one of the radiators a couple of years before that, so I know my way around the cooling system reasonably well -- except for the expansion tank. I checked the thermostat, water pump and the hose plumbing that goes toward the front and the radiators and the heater hoses. No sign of any leakage I checked the top of the expansion tank for signs of overflow: none. (As the overflow drain appears to go thru the tank, is a possible failure mode for this integrated-molded overflow channel to crack, allowing tank fluid directly into the overflow channel wihtout going thru the cap and onto the top of the expansion tank body?) I checked the trunk floor around the expansion tank: dry as a bone. (But I didn't pul out the carpet.) I checked the oil (in case a head gasket): golden clear (changed about 1,800 miles ago). I then popped the engine cover and poked around toward the tank manifold with a borescope: it appeared dry, though from the pics (I add as replies as there is a 2Mb limit), there appears to be moist(?) dirt all over the manifold -- but no sign of any actual liquid anywhere. Before I dive into an expansion tank project, a couple of questions: 1. Can the tank manifold leak from the engine compartment side -- all the threads and videos I've seen only show leakage on the trunk side of the tank; if so, how can I confirm it with a borescope or other method? 2. Are there other points in the engine compartment where a leak might be possible (not sure where the three lines on the expansion tank that are under pressure go) but it must be to the engine block? If so, where else should I look? Any help/advice would be much appreciated before I undertake a tank renewal that might not have been necessary. Here's a pic of the manifold body between the rightmost pipe-hose and the other two hoses also under pressure.

Try 0793

Any chance someone can help with a code for this radio, CDR 220 seriel no 15064643 model BE 4462 thanks and best regards, Johnny

Thank you for the post about the 2004 horizontal motor. The 4mm hex plugs on the left and right of the pump will bleed the fluid out of the rams. Makes a mess. As called out above the fill port is on the end of the white plastic. I found it useful to move the electronics out of the way (2x screws) and then also undo the bracket to wipe down the pump and fill.

Took the 987 to SOS European today. Branden tested with the PWIS and confirmed the fog lights worked, but the switch didn’t. Fortunately, I bought a switch on eBay and it worked fine. All is good now

That was it! Thank you!

Try 3531

I have lost the code for this radio in my 2000 Boxter. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance

Looking for preferably a black hardtop for 2000 Boxter located within 200 miles of Seattle Washington

Many times the servo is not bad but the foam from the flaps has deteriorated and jammed their movement. I would check that first then rest the codes and test before actually replacing any servos.

I've read myself cross-eyed trying to find out how to replace the passenger side servo motor on my 04CTT. The symptom is hot air coming out of the dash vent on PX side, cool on the driver side. When I close the passenger dash vents, the driver side get hotter so the hot air is bleeding into the driver side (LHD). My AC codes are: 2100 - Footwell flap 2101 - side blower 1810 - drive motor temp valve 710 - defrost flap 1299 - implausible signal I have an Alpine 507 stero installed which is the cause for a few other implausible signals elsewhere so I'm less concerned there unless I am optimistic in my assessment. All I have been able to locate on the PX side is the bottom most servo; the footwell servo I believe. I'm looking for direction on how to replace the servo, ideally with pix, and welcome any other feedback. I'm sure there is a link out there detailing this procedure but I have not gotten the correct search query to populate. Thank you in advance.

Possible stuck injector(s). Check your fuel pressure and for misfires.

Is the HPFP leaking fuel into the oil a possible thing? I'm pretty convinced I have oil dilution and I'm examining possibilities. I am going to check & clean the injectors as a first step, but I'm considering the HPFP could be leaking the fuel directly into the oil. Anyone heard of this type of failure?

Do you have the Napa part number for the switch?

Try 9641

I didn't get a code card with my car, and I just replaced the battery and now locked out.... I've got a CDR-210 Becker R 2896 Serial number V5008 184 Thanks!

It work! Thank you so much!

Is this the Purge valve in the engine bay?

No the car no accident, i check the relay starter I checked carefully and it reaches 86 minus constant from the ecm, according to (elsa win )that should only take a minus when engine of maby the ecm is defect the give minos all the way to the relay starter bin86. tnx to help

What is your goal? More horsepower? Better sound? You are not going to get much more horsepower out of a normally aspirated Porsche. Maybe 30 BHP with all those options. That's a lot of money for very little that you will feel. For sound nothing beats or matches the Porsche PSE system to my ears. I would rather listen to a good PSE than the radio.