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I'd start with checking the alternator, is it putting out 14.5 V DC at idle? If not, I would check to make sure you properly reconnected the wiring.

Manual is a huge component of my attraction to Porsche. Where I live, 2 similar spec 997.1 vs .2, the price difference is $15,000. i chose a .1 four and years ago. That 15k delta was left in the stock market (S&P 500) and has atleast doubled. Meanwhile my cars only trip to a shop has been a gashed tire caused by road debris. I’ve done all small repairs and major maintenance. (Although I have new issue today) Do you see yourself keeping this car for a year or 2? Or 10 years or more? If you plan on keeping a .1 I’d recommend the following: Swap to a low temp thermostat X51 baffle upgrade in the sump. consider upgrading AOS to aftermarket Ultimate AOS. 50 weight oil instead of factory 40 add 3rd radiator. ignore ALL internet boogeyman stories about the IMS. 2008 era, it is just another moving part. However if you ever drop engine for a clutch or rear main seal then have a seal removed such that IMS is no longer sealed and engine oil will splash in to lubricate it.

What are your voltages? Resting, idling, driving above 2000rpm? There are gizmos to help with this monitoring - Antigravity Batteries has a battery tracker. Others plug into the cigarette lighter. Do you have any codes (can be read with Durametric and other (OBDII) readers)? I've read stories on Rennlist about induced electrical noise in the sound system even when the sound system is not turned on. Might your alternator be damaged or no longer have a high quality ground? Could the noise be mechanical (transmitted noise)? You did change pulleys. Run the car a few minutes without the serpentine belt and see if the noise is reproduced.

I replaced the starter, replaced AOS with a UAOS, removed alternator for access. Also replaced 3 pulleys, water pump, thermostat, all engine bay hoses. Spark plugs, coils, and added 3rd radiator. The idle is a little rough but no check engine light. My imagination is hearing an electrical whirring sound in the cabin but don’t hear it in engine bay. And getting an alternator/battery error. The battery has been on a tender. Where to start? Did I screw something up?

The sensor should be showing a millivolt AC signal with the tire turning that varies with the wheel speed.

Finally got the clam shell open, removed clips and opened, the rod from the clam to the drive was hanging down and tried to put back on ball joint but is very loose! Should it be hard to put on to the ball joint and if so do I need to replace it and if so where can I get one ? The left hand side (passenger) is very tight on and hard to move, help !!

Hi, and thank you for reply. Have not tested to spin the wheel. Do you have any figures that it should be showing? (I will search here also)

Yes, there is a rear manual release, just like the front. We see cars all the time that are stored in climate controlled, secure garages with rodent related wire damage. Time to start looking at the wire harnesses, particularly where you said it was warm or smelled like burning............

It worked! thank you!!!

I was able to get the frunk unlocked before all this electrical mess and I left it open. It is the rear trunk to check the oil level that I am not able to open up and was wondering if there is an emergency release to get the rear trunk open? I have had it parked in a parking garage for the past two months so I think rodents chewing the wires is unlikely but you never know....

Try 8301

Try 5418

Can you help me with a code please? Radio model BE 4462 Type CDR 220 S/N W5002890 VIN WP0CA2982XU622701 TYIA!!

Same issue here - one flash and shut down when I hit the driver side heated seat. Took it apart to test for continuity...sure enough, nothing from the seat back heater circuit. Turns out it was broken connections at the base of thr seat back. Bit of soldering and voila! Seat heat again! Thanks for the tip!

I am the third owner of my boxster and the radio code got lost in translation years ago. 1998 boxster Becker CDR-210 model# R3297 Serial#W509317 thanks🫡

1. Are you sure the sides harness has not be switched? 2. Have you tested the harness for continuity to be sure it isn't damaged? 3. Using a multimeter, have you tested the sides for signal generation by spinning the tire with the meter connected to the sensor?

Hi, Cannot find what's the problem with the ABS warning. The fault-code-reader says it is right front. I have exchanged the sensor twice, but it is still the same. I have rewired the right side, to the left sensor, it says the right side ok (but not the left one then since it is disconnected). Therefore it seems like the wire and the rest of the system is ok. So next (and last) thing on my mind is to exchange the abs ring. Incl in the bearing?, since I didn't find any separate ring when I dismantled a while ago for exchanging the ring. Question; Is this sensor-ring (incl in the bearing) a common problem?

Welcom to RennTech Yes, the Tip fluid level needs to be checked from underneath and with the trans warmed up. I am always concerned about sudden onset electrical problems in these cars after they have been sitting for a while. The wiring harnesses are capable of attracting rodents that seem to love to chew on the insulation, resulting in all sorts of problems up to and including burning the car to the ground. You need to do a search for the manual front hood release cable (video here:

Are you asking about a complete engine? Is this car US/Canada or RoW?

Porsche panamera s 4.8v8 2011

http://M.n http://www.miguel com

I have a 2001 Boxster S. It was sitting for 2 months and before it sat my automatic was not shifting up through gears and I had to use paddle shifters (thinking I may have needed to add transmission fluid or possibly a shifter soleniod?). After I replaced battery it idled for about 15 minutes but windows were not working. I saw fuse was bad changed it and rolled windows down. I got my wallet went to car wash 5 minutes away and windows were not working again, fuse was blown again replaced it and did not work and did not blow again. I drove back home 5 minutes and while idling car just cut off. I touched the front driver fender and it was crazy hot, both front were but I believe back was not. I may have smelled a burning smell at some points while it was idling in my garage and driving, but seemed like it was intermittent. I checked all fuses (all are good) and wanted to check my oil level but I cant get trunk release to work with switch on the door sill and key fob does not seem to be working to unlock it either (no noise attempt being made). My dad said I needed to check the oil and transmission fluid (which both have not been checked in quite some time to be honest, only driven occasionally) but with the trunk not opening I cant check the oil and it seems like transmission fluid can only be checked from below? I tried to reprogram key by turning on,off and then hitting a button and that did not work. Any ideas about this mess I am in?

After all these years, I got tired of using my calibrated popsicle stick. This is a very easy fix. Here's a Pelican Parts link for the replacement latch cover. Open the top slightly, so the latch is a few inches from its home in the top of the windshield. Remove the 2 little plastic covers on either side of the latch assembly gently, they just snap into place. Remove the 4 screws, 2 under each cover. You'll need a T30 Torx ... a stout one, I was unable to do it with an ordinary screwdriver-like Torx. When you remove the last of the 4 screws, be very careful because the whole latch assembly will come out easily and its kinda heavy, 2-3 pounds probably. Once its loose, there are 2 electrical connectors which must be disconnected, and you'll have the whole latch mechanism free of the car. There's all sorts of German mechanical wizardry in this mechanism which you do not want to disturb. Get the latch assembly on a workbench on a towel or something because it scratches easily. Use a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers to rip away the remaining plastic cover. Once its out, take the replacement plastic cover and, using a small diagonal cutter or similar, cut the circular part at about 7 oclock and 4 oclock positions as in the picture below so instead of it being a circle, it will be a semicircle. Do this on both sides of the plastic. You can now simply slide the plastic cover onto the latch itself, and it will snap reassuringly into position, with the semicircular part of the plastic around the shaft that rotates the latch. I used a wee bit of "automotive goop" on the lower area (left of the "G" in the picture) and a wee bit on the spine (kinda below the "Y" in the pic) on the latch before pressing home the new piece, so that when the part snaps into place, it will be glued onto the latch. Reassembly is reverse of what you've done. There's no adjustment or incantations etc. And no more popsicle stick.

Hi I've got a 2013 Cayenne Turbo. Does anyone know if rims from a first gen 2003 Cayenne S would fit on my second gen 2013 turbo? I've heard mixed answers...

It's a 987.1 05-07 repair manual. Forgot where I got it from. It seems I made a major blunder at diagnosing. Looking at the flow chart more carefully the red/blue originates from fuse box so I'm assuming 12v it then passes thru 8 other sensors ending at mass air flow and cooling water valve on each side. Red/gry goes to DME labeled cam sensor im assuming that's the 5v ref no other sensors and the brwn/pink passes thru 4 sensors and is a shared ground. Again ...order of wires looks reversed at my plug. L to R I have brwn/pink red/gry and red/blu in diagram it's opposite meaning the ground and 12v are reversed. I'll look at the Bank 2 connector see what order it's in. Rechecked voltage 12v red/blu red/gry 55mv (shoud be 5v ref). Brwn/pink gnd. At DME voltage on red/gry is 55mv where it should be 5v ref. This was the same on bank 2 cam sen.ref wire BUT with engine running they are both 7v. Cam 2 ref wire according to flow chart is brwn/vio my wire was brwn(unless vio was no longer visible) This point I'm stumped. DME was rebuilt from Specialized ECU Doctor.Thanks v