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deilenberger last won the day on August 18 2016

deilenberger had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About deilenberger

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday June 24

Profile Information

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  • From
    Sping Lake NJ USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '06 Cayenne/S Titanium
    '02 BMW M3 convertible
    '01 BMW M-Coupe
    '03 BMW 525i-touring (wagon)
    '07 BMW R1200R - 2 wheels, the real BMW
  • Former cars
    Various BMWs, Jags, etc.
  1. That's twice he's been told. Hopefully.. he's paying attention (it's a real PITA to find you're not able to remove the fill plug after draining the TC.. but - you only make that mistake once.) BTW - Steph - when you're done - please post your results here. I'd like to keep a running total on success with this.
  2. steph - you may want to read: Read the entire thread actually. It is - as they say "a piece of cake" to do the job (especially if you have a lift) - both fill and drain are on the backside of the transfer case. You do want some sealant to put on the plugs before refilling them. You do want to remove the fill first (I hope I don't have to explain why..) And you do want to use a torque wrench (small 3/8" one or even 1/4" one - 12ft/lbs isn't much torque at all) to tighten them up. #1 is fill, #2 is drain.
  3. Very nice Chris. Please keep us informed on how well it holds up, and I'll be quite interested to hear what Blackstone has to say..
  4. Cool. I see by your sig that you're well qualified to make a determination. Smell? Other people have noted a burned clutch smell to the oil when it's that dark. It's a bit debatable what color it started out as. I've seen things suggesting the factory fill started out as blue, but all replacement fluids are red. Dunno if that's true or not. Should know in about a week when I get mine changed out. My guess is what we're seeing is burned clutch material suspended in the fluid. I'll be very interested in how yours drives now. Being a stick shift we can immediately take slippage of the automatic transmission out of the equation, which is good.
  5. Chris - no real tricks. It's as straightforward as it sounds. What year is your wife's Cayenne? Just curious. And be very interested in hearing what the result of the fluid change is.. funny thing. When I was at the dealer, looking at a dead transfer-case sitting on the shop floor, I asked about the fluid change. Shop foreman said "Lifetime fluid - never changed" - I just pointed to the dead one on the floor - and said "Lifetime up?" I think he got it. But they never mentioned ever trying a fluid change before replacing the case. I'm guessing the Porsche protocol is "case misbehaving - replace".. rather than fix. Just hoping that in at least some cases - changing the fluid may help the problem. Save a bit of the old fluid coming out - I'd love to see what it looks like from a case experiencing the problem. BTW - was chatting with my mechanic friend who is pretty hooked into the Ferrari world. He said their dual-clutch transmissions are lasting 5-15,000 miles, and then start exhibiting similar grabby clutch action. Ferrari replaces them - but some enthusiasts have tried RAVENOL dual-clutch-transmission fluid, and reported that within 30 miles or so - the bad behavior starts clearing up. Probably not in all cases - if the clutches really got hammered - but at least in some cases - saves a many thousands of $$ repair. BTW - Ravenol Transfer Case synthetic, meeting Porsche spec: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCVP6UK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_
  6. There is certainly no rush on it - I'm just curious if there is ANY documentation on what the values mean, and where they come from. I had assumed the V40 measurement was done as a resistance measurement through the oil - more metal in the oil = more wear, but now I'm not so sure. Since they do give a max value as an indication the oil should be changed - it doesn't seem like it would be just a calculated value - that could be made mileage dependent fairly easily. But - the fact that they have you reset it to 0 after changing the oil - almost makes me think it's calculating the torque (a measurement of force) that has gone through the transfer case. Mystery. That is the only mention of that value in the service manual, and none of the other values are ever mentioned.
  7. The Head - are you doing the 2nd oil change with the same oil? I know on another forum you mentioned you've been driving it all week - hard - and have not experienced any of the symptoms it formerly exhibited. And I seem to recall you used the Mutol listed as compatible by Pelican?
  8. It reads them - but no real explanation of what they mean or what's acceptable. Here is a text version of the data it reports: =====2017-02-11 16:28:39===== V10_Transmission wear integrator- mileage since last oil service 71377.73 mile V20_Transmission wear integrator- chain 277653360 j V30_Transmission wear integrator- clutch 1113942712 j V40_Transmission wear integrator- oil 78 kwh V50_Transmission wear integrator- roll-over counter 110988 V60_Disc wear integrator- disc work 0.2- 2.0 kw 56611416 j V70_Disc wear integrator- disc work < 0.2kW 171189563 j V80_Disc wear integrator - disc work > 2 kW 2086066 j Any idea what the numbers mean? I assume all the measurements are in units of power (kWh, and Joules) - but don't quite understand why that's so.. by the spec's from the manual - my V40 oil wear integrator number is fine.
  9. I believe the PN is the same as the older plugs - starts with 955.. but - in looking at photos of it on Pelican's website, it looks like a simple threaded plug with some sealant on the threads. I would guess some Teflon tape pipe sealant will work just fine, and since the plugs are around $20/each - I believe I'll be reusing mine.
  10. You were experiencing symptoms? I'd love to have gotten a wear indicator reading on your old oil. I can read this with the iCarScan, and the factory service manual gives a maximum value. This is what the manual says: WM 0335IN DIAGNOSTIC MAINTENANCE: RESETTING DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM AND SERVICE INTERVAL (CAYENNE, CAYENNE S, CAYENNE S E-HYBRID, CAYENNE TURBO, CAYENNE (3.0), CAYENNE GTS & CAYENNE TURBO S) > RESETTING SERVICE INTERVAL > READING OUT TRANSFER GEAR WEAR INTEGRATOR The transmission wear integrator oil must be checked during every intermediate maintenance/maintenance. 1. Start PIWIS Tester II 9818 and follow the instructions on the Tester. 2. Select the vehicle type and start the PIDT. 3. Select the All-wheel menu. 4. Select the Actual values, input signals menu. 5. Select the T_wear integrators menu. Press [F12] to continue. 6. Read out the value for V40 transmission wear integrator - oil . If this value is greater than 145 kWh , the oil in the transfer gear must be changed → Changing oil for transfer gear. If the value is lower, no further action is required. 7. If the oil in the transfer gear has been changed, the value must be deleted and reset to zero by pressing [F8] FWIW - I have no idea why this measurement is in kiloWatt hours (kWh) - http://www.energylens.com/articles/kw-and-kwh since that's a measurement of energy
  11. The BMW stuff is identical to the Porsche original spec oil. And it seems much more readily available (but not any cheaper.)
  12. I'm thinking of taking a sample when I change mine and have Blackstone look at it. I'll have to contact them and see if they have any virgin samples to compare it to..
  13. One of these makes short work of getting every drop to where it belongs: http://a.co/10ERX9J
  14. Rated capacity is 0.85L. It pretty much sits mostly in the bottom of the chain case part until it starts moving then the chain drags some up to the top where it splashes around and lubricates the planetary gear and the clutch assembly. I've found the Porsche capacity listings are pretty accurate (my engine takes exactly 10 quarts of oil- which is 9.5L (9.46353, but who's counting..)