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About deilenberger

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday June 24

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  • From
    Sping Lake NJ USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '06 Cayenne/S Titanium
    '02 BMW M3 convertible
    '01 BMW M-Coupe
    '03 BMW 525i-touring (wagon)
    '07 BMW R1200R - 2 wheels, the real BMW
  • Former cars
    Various BMWs, Jags, etc.
  1. It's amazing to me that Porsche basically tells you to never change the driveline fluids.. with active clutches in the transfer case and the torque-vectoring rear diff - its certain that the fluid will deteriorate - due to sheering from the clutch, and material worn from the clutch. WHAT are they thinking?
  2. I had the clogged drain - and it was cleared and still is. I've added cleaning it out to the schedule for replacing the cabin filter. That may have been about when this behavior started.. my iCarScan shows the outside/recirc flap is a bit slow to perform.. it does reach the desired position - but it fails the test for doing so (which apparently is position and time based.) My thinking was that perhaps this flap or the motor got wet and are binding up a bit, so I figured the biggest hole into the HVAC housing is the motor opening.. plus it would give me a chance to lubricate the motor bearings. If the flap was binding up (and the sound from the HVAC system sounds as if it's switching from inside to outside air) a bit - the control module may make it repeat the function until it gets it right, which could account for the repeated airflow decreases on startup.
  3. The footwell floods are quite common. They don't come up to the level of the battery compartment. There is about 1.5" of open-cell molded foam under the front carpet. Under that foam are big bundles of wires going hither and tither - that have splices in them. The foam gets soaked, meaning the bundles of wire are basically underwater, and the water creeps past the rather poorly sealed splices, and combined with electricity - cause electrolysis - basically converting the splices into a form of copper-dioxide. Which isn't a good thing. When they go wonky - there are all sorts of odd behavior that's been observed - especially if one of the bad splices happens to be in a computer data line. I'll see if I can find a thread to read about it.. it is an ALL Cayenne sort of thing. None of them are immune to it - from the first 955 up to the last 958. See: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/1002135-if-you-re-thinking-of-buying-a-955-957-2003-2010-read-this-first.html Specifically the section entitled: 955 & 957 - Cabin Floor Flooding: Also see: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/987845-help-my-floorboards-are-flooded.html https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/960439-how-to-ignition-lock-brake-proportioning-abs-light-psm-traction-brake-flashing.html Almost everything described in these threads (on the 955/957) applies equally to the 958. Makes a good case for parking it in the garage..
  4. Interesting. Can the motor regulator be replaced individually? I have a persistent error on the HVAC module, related to excess current draw by the HVAC fan. I can clear it and it reoccurs. The fan works fine - once it's started. It does start oddly. It starts at high RPM (and high RPM indicated on the LCD display) - then I hear flappers moving around, and the air velocity drops drastically for a second. Fan speed according to the display has not changed. After the second - the air-velocity increases again. It then may (or may not) repeat this cycle once again. From then on it runs normally. I tried to drop the blower motor to see if I could determine what was going on - but it foiled me on removal. The big-*** (tech-term) bundle of wires that pass beneath it made it almost impossible to get all the screws out that hold it in, and when they were removed I could only drop it about 1/2". Since it was getting late, and I was getting sore from standing on my head in the vehicle - I put it back together. Any hints on either? Regulator available as a part? Getting the **** thing out? TIA.
  5. Hi Richard, Well, I haven't been to Santa Cruz since June (by motorcycle..) if you wanted to drive to NJ - we could hook it up to my iCarScan and see what happens. The symptoms you're giving make me think the alarm system is reporting something unlocked - and letting you know with the funny door LED flash and the 4 way flashers. That's where a good diagnostics tool can be a lot of help - it can check each sensor and see what the body module thinks the state of it is. I'm going out to the garage to try something.. Back, lets see if I can remember what I saw: Normal operation - all doors closed, gas door closed - hit lock on the key, the LED on the door flickers, two chirps, then the LED flashes rapidly for 20 blinks (about 1/sec between blinks) then it switches into a slower blink mode (maybe 2-2.5/sec between blinks.) All doors closed - gas door open - same as the normal operation. It seemingly ignore the gas door.1 A passenger door partly latched - LED comes on solid for about 10 seconds, followed by pairs of blinks - about 1/2 second between the two in the pair, and about 2 seconds between each pair. So blink-blink, 2 seconds, blink-blink. No parking light flash, and no chirp. Drivers side door partly latched - it simply doesn't lock at all. What I didn't try is keeping the latch on the gas door from fully extending to the lock position - and my WAG is - that might be your problem. Since it doesn't care if the gas door is open or closed - it isn't monitoring the gas door position, but it might be monitoring the latch state of the solenoid that latches/locks the door closed. Just checked the manual - the rear body-control module is located "RIGHT SIDE OF REAR COMP" - but it has several outputs to the "TRUNK, TAILGATE, FUEL DOORS SYSTEM". Looking at the diagram for that circuit - the FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE actually controls the ACTUATOR TANK COVER OPEN and ACTUATOR TANK COVER CLOSE outputs - which are interesting since there are just these two leads going to the TANK COVER ACTUATOR - no ground shown. That makes me think they reverse the voltage going to the actuator to have it open and close. The FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE is located "LEFT SIDE OF DASH". The reason I'm zeroing in on filler latch assembly is - you hear noise in that area. There is nothing there that should be making noise. The rear body module has no relays that would click - it's solid-state switches - they make no noise. Something in that area is making noise, and the only thing I can think would do that is the filler latch assembly. It's located under the rubber and plastic surround around the gas filler and appears accessible without major disassembly. It may require that the hinge-assembly and surround be replaced if it's removed from the car. The manual isn't entirely clear on that. I just went and took a look at how it works. It's a spring loaded piston that rotates 1/4 turn between in and out. It engages and locks itself to the actual gas filler door as it retracts. When fully retracted some sort of catch keeps it that way, holding the gas filler door closed. When you open it - that catch releases, it pushes the gas door open about 1/2" and releases itself from the door. The lock on it must be when it's locked it doesn't release from the catch that keeps it retracted. Typical German complexity for what should be a simple device.. You might leave the door open and see how it works by pushing it with the locks unlocked, and then again with the car locked. If it's making the noise you hear - you might have found the problem. One other scary thought - has your vehicle ever suffered from the flooded footwell syndrome that all Cayennes are prone to? Given how the wiring for that device must run from that corner of the vehicle to the diagonal opposite front corner - chances are the wiring runs in the bundles that can be damaged if the footwells flood for any period of time. They're fixable - and could account for the problems the Durametric is having with communications. HTH, Don
  6. BTW - is the gas door locked when this happens? Just wondering if a failure to lock the gas door throws a failure warning that the vehicle lets you know about by dancing around with the routine you've described.
  7. Suggestion - find someone local with a competent Porsche diagnostics tool and find out what the codes are that Durametric won't read. I'd suggest iCarScan - but I'm biased - I like it a LOT more than my Durametric and find it much more competent and complete.
  8. My suggestion is - if one coil is on it's way out - all it's little sisters and brothers are just waiting for you to replace the one and then they'll start failing. Makes sense - the coils die because of heat - and too much current pushed through too small a coil (causing some of the heat) - and they live in identical conditions. When one goes - replace all of them. Throw a few of the old ready-to-fail ones in the spare tire well to invoke Eilenberger's Law of Spares: "You'll never need the part you have.."
  9. Thanks much for the kind words. What were the symptoms you were experiencing and year/model/miles?
  10. Loren - dunno if you notice - this thread is in the wrong section. FWIW - there are some rather lengthy threads on various Cayenne forum websites describing this fault on the 955/957 series - and some fixes. The problem is wear within the column control devices (magnets on shafts that move in/out of hall-effect sensors) - a few people have bodged a fix for it that doesn't require steering column replacement (Porsche's solution.) I have also heard of this happening if the wiring bundle under the passenger's or drivers floor carpeting has gotten water soaked and the splices within it corroding. This usually also causes other fault codes.
  11. Nowhere in the ebay listings I looked at did it refer to China. Some of them referred to Turkish made parts (which is likely exactly where the originals were made.) Did you actually see a reference to China in any of the listings, or was that simply an assumption based on the price? My WAG - someone at the company making the switches for VW/Audi/Porsche liberated some and is using eBay to market them. I can't imagine there is a big enough market for these very custom switches (different options and years result in different switch configurations) to be manufacturered simply as a replacement part - even in China. And the fact that parts of the switches are being sold (the buttons - which frequently loose the chrome tip) reinforces that WAG. YMMV..
  12. If the fill tube wasn't removable via the drain plug you couldn't drain the oil except by removing the pan.
  13. The probe on the digital thermometer - if inserted in the fill tube will be measuring the temperature of the air in the transmission.. unless you insert it while fluid is pouring out of the fill tube (seems rather messy.) I think plan B has more chance of success. And the temperature isn't critical to 1-degree.. nor is the level IMHO. Porsche owners do tend to obsess sometimes (I'm not innocent of this myself..)
  14. Even better - the switch caps are available - considering how frequently they break.. good thing: http://r.ebay.com/zId2iZ and these replacements are made in Turkey (which is probably where the original switch was made..)
  15. Dougg - interesting the iCarScan will do it fine with the 958. I think Durametric is really falling behind the curve on value and the diagnostics ability. At one time it was the only thing out there - no so anymore - and other options give more value for the money.

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