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deilenberger last won the day on September 12

deilenberger had the most liked content!

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About deilenberger

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday June 24

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  • From
    Sping Lake NJ USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '06 Cayenne/S Titanium
    '02 BMW M3 convertible
    '01 BMW M-Coupe
    '03 BMW 525i-touring (wagon)
    '07 BMW R1200R - 2 wheels, the real BMW
  • Former cars
    Various BMWs, Jags, etc.
  1. Loren - dunno if you notice - this thread is in the wrong section. FWIW - there are some rather lengthy threads on various Cayenne forum websites describing this fault on the 955/957 series - and some fixes. The problem is wear within the column control devices (magnets on shafts that move in/out of hall-effect sensors) - a few people have bodged a fix for it that doesn't require steering column replacement (Porsche's solution.) I have also heard of this happening if the wiring bundle under the passenger's or drivers floor carpeting has gotten water soaked and the splices within it corroding. This usually also causes other fault codes.
  2. Nowhere in the ebay listings I looked at did it refer to China. Some of them referred to Turkish made parts (which is likely exactly where the originals were made.) Did you actually see a reference to China in any of the listings, or was that simply an assumption based on the price? My WAG - someone at the company making the switches for VW/Audi/Porsche liberated some and is using eBay to market them. I can't imagine there is a big enough market for these very custom switches (different options and years result in different switch configurations) to be manufacturered simply as a replacement part - even in China. And the fact that parts of the switches are being sold (the buttons - which frequently loose the chrome tip) reinforces that WAG. YMMV..
  3. If the fill tube wasn't removable via the drain plug you couldn't drain the oil except by removing the pan.
  4. The probe on the digital thermometer - if inserted in the fill tube will be measuring the temperature of the air in the transmission.. unless you insert it while fluid is pouring out of the fill tube (seems rather messy.) I think plan B has more chance of success. And the temperature isn't critical to 1-degree.. nor is the level IMHO. Porsche owners do tend to obsess sometimes (I'm not innocent of this myself..)
  5. Even better - the switch caps are available - considering how frequently they break.. good thing: http://r.ebay.com/zId2iZ and these replacements are made in Turkey (which is probably where the original switch was made..)
  6. Dougg - interesting the iCarScan will do it fine with the 958. I think Durametric is really falling behind the curve on value and the diagnostics ability. At one time it was the only thing out there - no so anymore - and other options give more value for the money.
  7. Loren, if you have a Durametric or IcarScan tool you can read the transmission oil temperature directly with them. I believe that's how a dealer would do it..
  8. One of my laws: "You'll never need the part you have.." - meaning if you'd bought the wear sensor before starting the job, the old ones would have come out just fine. Had yours indicated the pads were worn? It looks as if once they touch the rotor surface and the plastic surrounding the actual sensor starts being worn away - they become much more difficult to remove intact. Or to install intact. They're the cheap part of the job - I just order them when I decide to do the job. Dunno what I'll eventually do with the old sensors that came out just fine and are sitting on the shelf.. :) I'm sure I'll never need them.
  9. If you want to swing by and pick them up in NJ.. sure. BTW - these sort of special tools - typically have a resale value when you get rid of the vehicle of about 75-80% of their new price. BTDT with lots of BMW special tools for their cars and the bikes. If I'm not using them - I'll post them on a forum FS list and they're typically gone in a day or two. There are a number of BMW valve shim kits that increased in price so much while I owned them that I made a profit selling them, had a bidding war going on.
  10. $32 is excessive? If you drop one of the calipers and rip the brake line out - the cost will far exceed $32. If you drop a caliper, rip the brake line out and it ends up on your toe - the cost will far exceed $32. You're going to save $300-500 over visiting a dealership.. and $32 is excessive? Reread what he said: "I found the pins somewhat redundant if you have another pair of hands to help" - do you have another set of skilled hands around?
  11. Does the icarsoft allow you to activate (turn on) components? If so - try turning the fan on at various speeds and see what happens, then report back. The most frequent failure appears to be the blower itself - and it looks like a royal PITA to get to, some fairly heavy duty interior disassembly required.
  12. I went looking for it in the wiring diagrams - and nothing in the battery-power circuits showed a manually operated switch, so it must be somewhere else..
  13. REALLY interesting. I never noticed the switch. I was easily able to see it by moving the seat all the way back and then popping open the little cover. Since I sometimes leave the P!G for a month or so at a time in the garage (out playing/travelling on my motorcycle) putting it in the storage mode has some real appeal. Plus it makes for a great theft deterrent. Cool beans!
  14. I have no idea where there is a switch that you mention. Can you take a photo of it? If it requires removing the seat - it's not happening. Have you done an entire system scan with the ICarScan? That should pinpoint where any faults are recorded that might cause the message you're seeing. It is worth doing a system disconnect/reconnect - if the voltage dropped low enough when you were in the process of swapping batteries that might account for the message you see. It may be a residual that clears if the car boots up with a fully charged battery.
  15. There is no "register" the battery on a Cayenne. BTDT spent a lot of time researching it. If you ask a dealer's service department the response will be "huh?" - they simply replace them. There is info in the Gateway on what battery was installed at the factory - but there isn't a tool capable of changing that information or adding to it. I tried Durametric, ICarScan (which looks like it has the ability - but if you go to write it to the Gateway is doesn't "take"), Snap-On and several other tools. Then I noticed that Porsche actually changes the charge characteristics according to how you're driving the vehicle. If you have it in non-sport mode, charge voltage is limited to around 13.6V. If you press the SPORT button, that voltage will immediately increase 1V. Doesn't matter what gear, what engine speed. The reason for this is fuel economy. They want to increase the corporate fuel economy rating for the EPA - which saves them gas-guzzler money, so they limit the load the alternator will put on the engine when you're in normal mode. Since fuel economy isn't measured in "Sport" mode - they can unlimit the load and allow for full charging. As far as your problem - I suspect your battery is only partially charged. Before installing any new battery it should sit overnight on a smart-charger until the charger indicates it's fully charged. A battery that doesn't have this done will likely never be capable of full CCA rating. What you might try doing is disconnecting the battery and charging it in place. Hopefully you DID connect up the vent tube to the new battery (I have the same battery in my '11 CTT..) Charge it up overnight and then reconnect it. See if the fault message goes away. The fact that the ICarScan couldn't communicate with your ECU makes me think the vehicle voltage is low enough that the modules have triggered low-voltage protection mode. They shut themselves down to prevent burning themselves out due to low voltage. You can display a voltmeter on the multi-display on the dash. It would be interesting to observe that.