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9552T500

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9552T500 last won the day on September 6

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About 9552T500

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    Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1975

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    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Santa Clara, CA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 C4 Tip Cab
    2002 Porsche Carrera C2 Coupe (yippee-finally I made myself this present & it is awesome ...)
    2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S
    1997 Audi Cabriolet
    (...love both, but 2 wheels on dirt are still better...)
  • Future cars
    ...Zuffenhausen, flat-Six, Air-cooled...
  • Former cars
    2005 Porsche Cayenne V6
    1989 Dodge Dam
    1994 Dodge Caravan
    1991 VW Jetta
    1996 VW Caddy

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  1.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial 2002 Porsche 911 M96 996 3.6 liter engine rebuild DIY. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  2. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .
  3. I could not find a complete docu. for myself on the web when I started - so here I am sharing the documentation of my DIY rebuild of a M96 996 3.6L (3-chain) engine - form removal of the engine form car, teardown to the rods, assembly & putting back into car, and which runs fantastic now. Illustrations at hand of a few hundred images out of my photo-set which you can click to enlarge on the microsite as well. I hope I can encourage sb. to do this work on your own too. It is absolutely doable (I have no automotive background , but I am scientist, mostly doing engineering in nanotechnology, and I am passioned about restoring old motorcycles and engines ), and if you love engines - you will enjoy this as I did (and bring the hated 996 back to life). Link to docu: http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID snapshoot of the image set the docu. picks from...
  4. Interesting. There are more threads on cracked valve seating ring issue.... Also an '02, and also Cyl 4 & liner crack as a consequence. My #4 piston rings are seized, and likely the additional radial pressure from piston/ring initiated the sleeve to crack . However, interestingly, there are no signs of a broken seating on the #1 cylinder , but I also see that there was some hard debris in the chamber (see picture of the damaged #1&#4 domes/pistons) , causing piston and head to be deformed - yet the rings are still ok, and piston would likely work again. The real question to me here is where the debris in Cyl # 1 could have originated ? Can a parts of the broken intake valve seat from #4 somehow be transported to #1 cylinder ?? How likely it is that the damage may have been primarily triggered by sth. other than just a valve seat quality issue for this model year??? So far I thoroughly sonic'ed and inspected 99% engine components w/o finding any obvious damage/emanating hard debris material. The crank cradle assembly is the last item In question here, but which I am hesitant to dismantle if the likely hood of the root cause there is low. All rods move smoothly and show no bends or other damage). I just wanted to clean the cradle from the oil/coolant mix and just re-use. Otherwise , it looks like, likely getting engine casing , one head and at least one piston replaced is what will likely get this baby running again. BTW- if sb. has a 3.6l casing in good used cond. for sale - please let me know. Thanks.
  5. Thanks Ahsai-makes total sense - especially after having found a schematic of the upper cross member.
  6. Thanks - the problem with bentley & co. is the lack of an instant pdf download somewhere - whether payed or free. It must be available when needed, as by the time the hardcopy would be in - an alternative solution to a problem is likely to be found.... Your safety tips are certainly always worth noting. This is - of course # 1 concern in these DIY endeavors, and what takes most of the extra time you need to finish the project. It is my 3rd engine drop out and the 2nd of a 911. Back to my bolt issue - thanks to an elver-fan in the EU, having posted a full copy of a service manual on the web (I will not re-distibute here, ; but since I always docu all details for myself, I will try to post my process when time permits) , I see the solution for my problem. The upper hole of the Cross Member (at least for Turbo/GT2 and it looks also any 4wd / and or automatic) is topologically not even a hole. It is a half-oval shaped grove at best, and where losen the bolt will just suffice to proceed with bar removal.
  7. Hi-sorry for hijacking. I am trying to find information on how to remove the 02 C4 Tiptronic drive train. Seems very little documented. Specifically I am puzzled how to remove the upper M12 bolts, which holds the Aluminum cross-bar on the passenger and drivers sides (Note: this is the bar right under the engine/Trans interface - Attaching picture of the problematic bolt pass-side) . I can losen the bolts , but I cannot pull them out (and cross-bar stuck on car in turn) as the Trans output shaft flanges ends are on the way. From my C2/Man the removal of this bar and post was easy. On the C4/Tip the engine removal strategy seems completely different. Any suggestions how to remove the cross-bar on the latter ? My thoughts go towards that I would have to remove the output shafts L+R to access , but I am not really convinced that this can be the (only) way. Thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks folks for the input. Decided to leave the drivers car w/o changes to body style, and will be looking for the proper car instead to fix the look in the future. Yet I could not resist to get sth. Changed minimal invasively to accomplish some hint of a connection between the lights to make the real look a bit more classic .... Sharing couple of pics :)
  9. loren, ddavidoff -thanks for your input. looks indeed like a bigger project, for just one of a series of lovely cs4 features i thought simply "bolt-on"on my car (i regret not having taken the opportunity to buy a cheap 04 CS4 cab when i had the choice ($27k was very tempting, but it was in aweful mech & cosm condition compared to the near perfect c2 i got the same day.). for sure i am not a big fan of aftermarket upgrades upgrade the rear to newer model as it remains an 02 after all . to get the strip i will likely try to get back to make my sticker-based strip idea - trying to make a decent 10 ft view). otherwise, getting back to the cs4 hood in have - , is there a chance to at least tell whether factory- or not ( concerned about your comment in that factory should be metal??) based on the pn 996 512 221 01 ( see attached pic of the label on tge cs4 hood i have)
  10. I am trying to find information about an engine 996 engine hood design change. I have a 02 C2 , and want to have the classic reflector strip between the rear lights on the hood as on the C4S. I thought about a sticker solution , but which seemed ugly. Then I thought to take a factory CS4 hood - which I hoped to swap easily (...just bolts...30 min or so...). Got a grey OEM unit from a 03 CS4 on ebay (w/o spending a fortune as most sellers ask for) , and hoped a paint job is all I would need.... The hood featured quite a few changes in design (the whole thing is from fiber glass (vs. steel)), and the clearance to the body panels is still there, yet noticeable smaller. The latter may workable (Fiberglass base could be made slightly narrower before getting it painted....) . However, where I am stuck is that the hood seems a few cm longer, and does not fit due to contact with bumper. My impression is that I need at least a different bumper as well as rear lights. My question would be, whether sb. tried this type of conversion before/whether this is possible at all w/o major body change. Attaching 2 pix with both hoods on my car...
  11. Hi there- daily driving my 02 C2 with open windows to listen to the flat-six music is sth. I am getting more addicted to... Wanted to intensify the acoustical feedback a bit, yet get back to normal when needed... So I am looking for the C4S PSE. I tried to find used PSE OEM mufflers, but which leads nowhere as they seem either N/A due high demand or junk after years of use. After some researching the market in german homeland, my attention got the PSE mufflers from Sommerfeld-Porschetuning (see screen shoot of one of their ebay listings). My question to you would be whether anybody here has experience with this German aftermarket muffler ? Also, the valve seems to be operated by vacuum. Q: Where is the vac taken from (Crank case?) ? If sb. has a link to an acoustical reference of this system vs. factory - this would be great. Thanks.
  12. Hurra! Neither Brake Booster failure nor CEL anymore, brakes precisely and the beast roars as it should be . Took several weekends to deal with the aftermath from winter driving (fun, but somehow regret...) . Now washed & waxed, and happy wife for life...Thanks once more to the folks here for the guidance. In turn - let me share my fix with illustrations: 1. drill hole in old tube close to firewall to keep the substance but arrest the crack growth; 2. Pull rubber tubing (1mm wall thickness (some old Nissin brake hose seath from my motorcyle used-spares box (Typically collecting and I don't throw stuff like this away as there will be a re-use someday...)) over 1.5 in and the old spigot on the counter part ; 3. I also re-did the joint on the Tee below motor mount using a 8/12 mm ID/OD rubber tubing. To connect this tube with the old plastic line I found some 1/2 in ID PEX tubing (Sharkbite...some residue form my last plumbing project on the house). This was a light interference fit by hand, and instantly perfectly sealed (some metal clamps maybe for safety , but I will leave it for the case the joint fails...). That's it. After a few minutes drive around the block the BB failure msg was gone, and the CEL a further 15 miles down the road. Attaching few pix
  13. did not think about jb weld, but thanks - i will keep that in mind
  14. Replacing item 13 does not look convenient at all :(... I was thinking about shrink tube to seal it first . Maybe put a line in parallel and cut closer to BB . Will post an update when I found a working workaround...
  15. Double checked both sources of vac (pump and the line from crank case merging into BB ), and neither behaves abnormal. So, I am excluding this for now. Dismounted the VAc pump / motor mount to trace the vac line going to firewall. Good news is that I found a crack of the joint in the elbow just before entering the firewall (longitudinal & facing firewall-hard to see until I removed the stuff above & making space to move the line around). Going to fix this next. This line was already triggering BB failure couple years back (Tee under Motor mount)- so I hope this new found vac leak is responsible for the strange brake behavior too. Again - the brake worked perfectly fine, and rather suddenly started acting up after driving in winter / very low temps for a week in January & all the CEL & other vac leaks since then. I think it must be very simple from here (brakes were done last summer , and all fluids levels did not change since then)...
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