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About 9552T500

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1975

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  • From
    Santa Clara, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche Carrera 4 Cabriolet lapis blue (Proud owner of a Porsche with truly DIY hand-built engine from scratch - Commute & AX car:) )
    2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S grey
    1997 Audi Cabriolet blue
  • Future cars
    ... Air-cooled Flat-six and electric P-car; One-wheeled sports car...
  • Former cars
    2002 Porsche Carrera 2 Coupe (Gone for good, as I was really up for a project when I got into the 911's - great commuter & anytime again)
    2005 Porsche Cayenne V6
    1989 Dodge Ram
    1994 Dodge Caravan
    1991 VW Jetta
    1996 VW Caddy (lowered & wide-body

Recent Profile Visitors

714 profile views
  1. Hi


    Grateful if you could advise what essential tools I should purchase to rebuild my porsche  996 engine tools.


    thanks heaps



  2. Hi Tony Z- thanks for the comment! Let me give you some input on your questions: I think it would be worth to get the workshop manual in German (Myself as a German would say the translation to eg. English is sometimes misleading/requiring to cross-check/study more context), but if it comes down to dimensional specs, torque, tightening sequences http://workshop-manuals.com was fully sufficient to me. It is a BT1800 cleaning system made by Omegasonics (18 Gallon / 1KW/ heated, variable frequency controller up to 40MHz )... https://omegasonics.com. Not produced anymore (got mine back in '08) , but the current model of comparable spec is BT1900. One of the best investments I ever made for my garage (originally acquired for my passion for collecting and restoring VMX motorcycles...). The M96 crank case was the very limit in terms size, and I had to flip it over to complete the cleaning. Sonic cleaning restored all parts and surfaces of lubrication channels pretty much to as close to original state as it can be. It is the level of cleanliness which, I think makes a big difference to success for such a project.
  3. Sure- i like the british way very much! As a german - i am possibly just generally more for boring facts and not too much up for endless chat :( . I do find though the concept “paying it forward” reflecting my personal attitude. I document all my projects anyway in depth for myself, and have the desire to share when a physical solution can be much simpler and cheaper and often much quicker then often discussed. i have also no doubt it was eventually discussed. it is just not easily searchable ( at least at a place where you would expect - like here on p-cars and dominantly diy-ers)
  4. thanks for the comment lewisweller. i think there is nothing wrong to answer a question after having it figuring oneself, when prior either keyword search on a forum did not show results, or couple of days pass wo any suggestion to some problem stated. Reading all posts seems super inefficient, but a search function , blocking typically after 1-2 queries suggests that this is desired here. However, vapor of a leaking engine as root cause makes totally sense - especially for a 120k engine. i will keep this in mind for the next more serious engine work down the road.
  5. problem solved and lesson learned. cabin filters can be as important as the respirators for the crew of eight under the hood, and might need as frequent attention:) Wonder why nobody came up with a suggestion, and searching by keywords for air condition smell does not yield any results. However, Just clening out makes a big difference. new one on the way....
  6. Hi - on my 06 CTTS, over the last few months I noticed occasionally awful smell inside the cabin while driving. My research so far indicates that it is emitted from vents when AC system is on. Believe it smells like sth. burned, and is not present when I switch AC system completely off. Did anybody experience this before on a 955 Cayenne, Turbo or Turbo S ? Thanks in advance. PS.: side note. It may be coincidence or completely unrelated, but as far as electrical problems I am noticing for about comparable amount of time that the horn is dead (silence when pressing the steering wheel center...).
  7.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial 2002 Porsche 911 M96 996 3.6 liter engine rebuild DIY. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  8. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend anything other than on a high-mileage used 997.1 donor engine and a couple of 996 cases with paired pistons/rings from engines with other type of failures). I wish I had an alike docu. when I started - so I share it here, and hopefully it is useful for someone who wants to bring a M96 996 3-chain engine back to life .
  9. I could not find a complete docu. for myself on the web when I started - so here I am sharing the documentation of my DIY rebuild of a M96 996 3.6L (3-chain) engine - form removal of the engine form car, teardown to the rods, assembly & putting back into car, and which runs fantastic now. Illustrations at hand of a few hundred images out of my photo-set which you can click to enlarge on the microsite as well. I hope I can encourage sb. to do this work on your own too. It is absolutely doable (I have no automotive background , but I am scientist, mostly doing engineering in nanotechnology, and I am passioned about restoring old motorcycles and engines ), and if you love engines - you will enjoy this as I did (and bring the hated 996 back to life). Link to docu: http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID snapshoot of the image set the docu. picks from...
  10. Interesting. There are more threads on cracked valve seating ring issue.... Also an '02, and also Cyl 4 & liner crack as a consequence. My #4 piston rings are seized, and likely the additional radial pressure from piston/ring initiated the sleeve to crack . However, interestingly, there are no signs of a broken seating on the #1 cylinder , but I also see that there was some hard debris in the chamber (see picture of the damaged #1&#4 domes/pistons) , causing piston and head to be deformed - yet the rings are still ok, and piston would likely work again. The real question to me here is where the debris in Cyl # 1 could have originated ? Can a parts of the broken intake valve seat from #4 somehow be transported to #1 cylinder ?? How likely it is that the damage may have been primarily triggered by sth. other than just a valve seat quality issue for this model year??? So far I thoroughly sonic'ed and inspected 99% engine components w/o finding any obvious damage/emanating hard debris material. The crank cradle assembly is the last item In question here, but which I am hesitant to dismantle if the likely hood of the root cause there is low. All rods move smoothly and show no bends or other damage). I just wanted to clean the cradle from the oil/coolant mix and just re-use. Otherwise , it looks like, likely getting engine casing , one head and at least one piston replaced is what will likely get this baby running again. BTW- if sb. has a 3.6l casing in good used cond. for sale - please let me know. Thanks.
  11. Thanks Ahsai-makes total sense - especially after having found a schematic of the upper cross member.
  12. Thanks - the problem with bentley & co. is the lack of an instant pdf download somewhere - whether payed or free. It must be available when needed, as by the time the hardcopy would be in - an alternative solution to a problem is likely to be found.... Your safety tips are certainly always worth noting. This is - of course # 1 concern in these DIY endeavors, and what takes most of the extra time you need to finish the project. It is my 3rd engine drop out and the 2nd of a 911. Back to my bolt issue - thanks to an elver-fan in the EU, having posted a full copy of a service manual on the web (I will not re-distibute here, ; but since I always docu all details for myself, I will try to post my process when time permits) , I see the solution for my problem. The upper hole of the Cross Member (at least for Turbo/GT2 and it looks also any 4wd / and or automatic) is topologically not even a hole. It is a half-oval shaped grove at best, and where losen the bolt will just suffice to proceed with bar removal.
  13. Hi-sorry for hijacking. I am trying to find information on how to remove the 02 C4 Tiptronic drive train. Seems very little documented. Specifically I am puzzled how to remove the upper M12 bolts, which holds the Aluminum cross-bar on the passenger and drivers sides (Note: this is the bar right under the engine/Trans interface - Attaching picture of the problematic bolt pass-side) . I can losen the bolts , but I cannot pull them out (and cross-bar stuck on car in turn) as the Trans output shaft flanges ends are on the way. From my C2/Man the removal of this bar and post was easy. On the C4/Tip the engine removal strategy seems completely different. Any suggestions how to remove the cross-bar on the latter ? My thoughts go towards that I would have to remove the output shafts L+R to access , but I am not really convinced that this can be the (only) way. Thanks in advance.
  14. Thanks folks for the input. Decided to leave the drivers car w/o changes to body style, and will be looking for the proper car instead to fix the look in the future. Yet I could not resist to get sth. Changed minimal invasively to accomplish some hint of a connection between the lights to make the real look a bit more classic .... Sharing couple of pics :)

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