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SpawnyWhippet replied to Ajayabb's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Perhaps you have a different seat base, but in my car, no matter where the seat was positioned, there was a maximum of only 50mm of space between the seat and the side panel of the car, so any tool I tried to fit in would not make it with the angle of attack.
SpawnyWhippet replied to Ajayabb's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)My 2009 997.2 trunk switch trim is held in with 5mm allen bolts. The rear screw cannot be accessed at all without removing the drivers seat. You only need to loosen them a couple of turns then pop the trim piece upwards with a plastic pry tool to release the clips. It could be possible without seat removal, but you would need a L shaped allen wrench with a shank of 50 - 70mm.
The root cause of mine was the brake light switch. It took a long time to identify this as I got 2 bad new replacement switches. The 3rd replacement switch fixed the issue. I also ended up replacing the switch on the ABS unit and a few other parts before identifying it to be a succession of bad switches.
SpawnyWhippet replied to P2C4's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I have been running my car with one spray of DeoxIT D5 for 8 months, no recurrence of the airbag light. At this rate, one can of cleaner will last the lifetime of the car.
I rebooted yet again and this time success. No changes made, no configuration different, same cable and same car. Now I can access 996 through OBD. Maybe some kind of glitch. I noticed that my software was actually 17.5, not 18.1.
I have a PIWIS II system running v17.500. It connects and diagnoses to anything later than 2005, eg 997, 987 etc, but it will not allow me to run diagnostics on 996 cars. I can select Porsche 996 under the Diagnostics menu, but when I start to interrogate the car, I get presented with a menu of cars that are all 997 or newer. I tried selecting 997, but the diagnostics fail. I can still access 996 OBD with my Durametric pro, but I would like to be able to use PIWIS on 996 instead. Anybody have any suggestions on how to fix that? Also, is there a way to update maps, program keys for '09 and newer cars outside the dealer network using this?
Thanks for that, but I think the part I need is the rubber part is in the rear of the transmission between the 2 pieces numbered '3'. Is that replaceable? I am getting jerky gear shifts and rough idling. I already replaced the engine mounts which made a massive difference, but after driving a 20k mile version of the same car yesterday, I noticed my car has much rougher idle and gear shift.
I have not found a cure for the 2310 code. I cleared it a couple of times after I did the HPFP and then it never came back. I also did not find a cure for C418, everything seems to work and my dealer didn't seem very interested in diagnosing it when I was last down there. Sorry I can't be more help on this one.
It would be possible to get the pump fitted without the tang in the correct place, but I made very sure that I aligned them correctly before installation. It is pretty easy to do that correctly. The 'gear' in the engine side is like a large brass-coloured ring with a slot in it, and the pump tang fits in that slot. It's not too difficult to refill the coolant, and you can clamp the rubber hose part to minimize coolant loss. The best way is to buy a $50 AirLift vaccum filler that you hook to your air compressor, but you could also do it just by filling and topping up a few times after running. Like I said, I undid the hose clamps and retainers for that coolant tube and managed to move it enough without stressing the pipe to fit the pump behind it. The largest part of the job for me was undoing the rusted exhaust bolts, but all came off after soaking overnight with penetrant and a bit of heat on a couple of them.
That pipe is a coolant pipe. I managed to replace mine without disconnecting it, but it would be easier to replace if you did. There is a small drive gear in the engine that turns the pump, and the pump has a small tang that engages into the drive. It was a little tricky getting those to engage correctly when the coolant pipe was in the way. It is not a difficult DIY. Unless your dealer is going to do the labor for less than $200, I would do it myself. My dealer wanted almost $2k to replace mine.
I'm suffering from Secondary Air Readiness not complete on my 07 Cayman base model with 100k miles. I replaced my faulty DMTL pump 3 weeks ago and have since driven the car around 200 miles, with about 30 cold starts. There are no codes at all in Durametric, and I have done several long drives with the speed under 3000rpm. I also scanned the car with a Snap-on Modis and it reports the same. No fault codes but SAI not ready. The only symptom I have is that the fuel tank is difficult to fill without the pump clicking off all the time. I need to pass smog so I can re-register it, but I also need to replace a failing starter motor, for which I need to disconnect the battery, which will reset the DME, so I won't pass smog... Any ideas on how to get this thing to pass Secondary Readiness.
I also did this and got the upgraded Beru coil packs with larger heads. I used a 1" boat transom plug off ebay for $5 to pull the oil tubes and replaced all the o rings. The whole job, including the correct OEM Beru coil packs, spark plugs, oil plug tube tool and o rings (all off Amazon or ebay) cost 30% less than the Porsche dealer was going to charge just to sell me the coil packs (no labor or tax!)
I have the exact same codes in my 07 Cayman. Did you ever get to the bottom of it? I cleared mine and they always return. The car is stock, other than an aftermarket Pioneer headunit that often cause CAN errors. I have coded out the radio and related components, but these never go away.