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In MY04 CS when I turn the heat on, it is throwing cold air on passenger side while the drivers side is working fine. I have tried changing temperature individually for both sides, but no cigar.
i read similar post here but it was more about air condutioner than the heater.
I had this problem about a year ago, but it started working again after a few hours.
Another issue is that there is no air coming out from front center ducts. This center duct problem somehow fixed itself for a short period of time in the summer when I was using A/C, but returned again.
Any suggestion what could be causing these?
This afternoon I was replacing the headlight switch/AC side vent and went to tighten the headlight switch into the housing and somehow struck something on the electrical board with the four wires and has the diodes and shorted something out. It smelled like a resistor went. Now I have no front fog lights and my AC appears to be out. I am not sure if the AC compressor is kicking on, though I have all the controls working. Any ideas what I may have screwed up.
Today I took the Cayenne 06 TT with 4 zone climate control to a shop to replace the damaged AC service valves and vacuum then regas the system to spec 1050-1100grams with 10g pag oil.
See image of new valves for low (right side)and high side (left side), as you can see they are vw parts and they pretty much fit any vw model and Porsche Cayenne and probably a whole load of other brands as the valves are generic for a lot of manufacturers and fit AC equipments which are standardise for obvious reasons. I went to Porsche and they didn't have any stock so went to vw and they had plenty.
Move the power steering reservoir out the way for easier access. Second picture.
The old low side valve (image 3) with manky looking chewed up Rubber valve which was stopping regassing according to the shop I tried 4 weeks ago after collecting from the garage who did the torque convertor seal job and left me with no AC working but before when I collected it (then had to return it due to massive vibration and a list of other crap), it did work which is strange but undercharged is all; (51oC when I collected it the second time with Jack all AC working thanks a bunch guys)!
So getting to the issue. . ......
Vacuum was fine no leaks, re-gassed to 1100 perfect, started car and ran AC, nothing but hot air. Gauge for high side was perfect in the green zone, but low side was much to high above the green zone and in the red. The technician concluded the compressor was good but the low side is blocked. He said the expansion valve is likely blocked and thus the low side is high.
So a few questions pls...
Q1. Is there any way a fault code or switch device/ sensor or valve located after the compressor could be off or shut and not allowing the refrigerant to not flow around to the condenser then onto the expansion valve and through the evaporator?
Q2. How to get the expansion valve out, any diy pls, I searched and found nothing.
Q3. Is there any other possibilities to consider?
Appreciate responders. Thanks
has anyone ever recharged their AC? I have a 2005 Cayenne Turbo. I noticed the other day the AC is not as cold as it used to be. Has anyone used AC Pro to recharge their AC? I believe the refrigerant is the same as what Porsche uses. Is this something that a novice can attempt, or will this damage the AC system by using an after market refrigerant that is not from Porsche?
Long story short, one day noticed water in the drivers footwell, found a leak on the door to body wire harness. Dried car out. Car was 100% before this, seemed to be OK even when wet.
2 Weeks later, car started getting random faults on the MFI (Brake, ABS, PSM, etc). Would clear, then come, then clear. Battery is about 7 months old (replaced when I first got these errors) Ton of errors in durametric, then one day would not start or move out of if it did start.
Peeled carpet back. Found 3 wires. 1 Crimped, 2 soldered. 1 of the soldered was gone, so cut that out, butt soldered and then repeated for the other 2 as I heard they usually go bad.
Cleared all the DTCs with durametric, car started fine, all looked good in happyville.
2 weeks later got a check engine light, read codes, p0119, p0117 and p1552 (from memory, may be wrong). Seemed to be the engine temp sensor. Thought maybe a fluke, reset and ignored. This has been on and off last few months.
I also noticed when hooking the durametric, or other code readers, it seemed to create a draw on the system, and the engine would idle rough, or the e throttle would not respond if I tried to drive with it plugged in. Pulled the durametric and all was fine, same with a bluetooth ODBII module I have. I replaced relay 433 under the driver's seat, and this seemed to cure that problem, since it provides relayed power to the CANBUS.
About 3 months later got a PSM failure, at 45MPH and car went into limp mode. Restarted car, error was gone. Seemed fine for another month, got the same PSM failure yesterday, car seemed to be lurching a bit in slow moving traffic when it came up.
Could the bad temp sensor be triggering this? It has slowly gotten worse I assume as once in awhile I see my gauge stops working. Or did I miss something else with my wire repairs.
I am at the point ready to rip out passenger wiring under the carpet and inspect, but I suppose I should just replaced the impossible to reach temp sensor first, as it really does seem bad at this point. I also notice all the fuse block fuses for the PSM are on the right hand side, makes me wonder if the wiring issue is there.
Just seems weird I have all these problems at once.