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Need DIY for Oil filler tube.

D_Man
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1999Porsche911 Member

1999Porsche911

Posted
Posted (edited)
I was swapping out my coolant reservoir and the oil filler tube got bet out of the way a bit and snapped off with very little force i might add.

Any clues on how difficult it is to change out?

It's not difficult to replace (remove alternator, throttlebody and intake tube). However, they break all the time and can be reattached where it broke using epoxy. I've broken mine a half dozen times moving it farther than it wanted to be moved.

To Replace:

Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery.

Remove the complete air cleaner assembly:

Unclip oil filler neck from upper part of the air cleaner.

Undo hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34.

Pull plug off the mass air flow sensor. To do this, push the button and simultaneously pull the plug off. Loosen hose clamp on the throttle body, unclip cable on the air cleaner housing and remove the air cleaner system.

Pull plug off the throttle body. Undo 4 hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 40) and remove the throttle body.

Release vent line. To release vent line, push the outer unlocking ring (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line.

Remove intake distributor - center. Loosen inner hose clamps at intake distributor. Loosen fit by swiveling intake distributor.

Tighten inner hose clamps again. Loosen outer hose clamps. Swivel to looser) fit.

Loosen inner clamp hoses and remove intake distributor.

Remove generator from bracket. To do this, relieve drive belt, turn the tensioning roller (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the tensioning roller. Remove belt from drive wheel of generator.

Undo upper right-hand fastening screw on generator (1) by approximately 3 turns. A gentle tap on the fastening screw loosens the front fastening bushing in the generator arm. Unscrew fastening screw (2).

Turn generator clockwise and remove from bracket.

Set down generator with connected lines.

Undo two hexagon-head bolts (a/f 10 mm) on the oil filler neck. Pull oil filler neck out of the crankcase.

Installation

Fit new sealing ring (42 x 4) on oil filler neck. Coat new sealing ring, e.g. with tire mounting paste, and fit oil filler neck on crankcase.

Secure new micro-encapsulated hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 16). Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ft. lbs.)

Fit intake distributor. Ensure that the vacuum line is seated correctly in the right rubber sleeve.

Centre the intake distributor. Push both rubber sleeves onto the intake distributor up to the marking (line). Check distance between intake distributor and support for hydraulic pump, they must be at least 5 mm apart.

Fit throttle body. Insert new sealing ring in the correct position.

Secure 4 hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 40).

Tightening torque 10 Nm (7.5 ft. lbs.) . Fit plug.

Install generator. Tightening torque of the hexagon-head bolt M10 x 145 (8.8) (No.1) 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) . Tightening torque of the hexagon-head bolt M10 x 30 (No.2) 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) .

Fit drive belt.

Install air cleaner assembly. Note: Before installation, make sure that the rubber sleeves (2 ea.) are present and properly seated in the transverse lock panel. Clip oil filler neck onto upper part of the air cleaner.

Connect battery.

Edited by 1999Porsche911
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  • 3 months later...
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Loren Member

Loren

Posted
  • Admin
Posted
Can somebody please provide me with part numbers for 15 and 16 in the diagram, the filler neck and the seal? My car is a MY'99 C4 6spd.

Thanks,

ds

Item 15 - 996.107.150.61 Filler Tube -- Retail $32.72 (as of February 2006)

Item 16 - 999.707.348.40 O-ring 42 x 4 -- Retail $6.40 (as of February 2006)

use with o-ring 000.043.205.10 Grease -- Retail $31.02 (as of February 2006) -- much more than you need, perhaps someone in the shop will give you a small amount.

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  • 2 weeks later...
stebbid Member

stebbid

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the help guys. It turns out that it wasn't a broken filler tube, I was getting some oily residue leaking from a loose rubber coupling on the intake distributor. Which leads me to my next question... Is it normal to have so much liquid (I'd say oil but it seemed to have too high a vapor pressure) condensing in the upper intake? Do I have something I really need to look at carefully?

Thanks,

ds

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  • 4 months later...
thewraith Member

thewraith

Posted
Posted
Please remember that the easy fix for a broken filler tube is simply reconnecting it with epoxy. Just clean it up, apply the glue and you are good to go.

Is this the right stuff?

Linky

Tried the epoxy thing 4 times and gave up on it. It simply kept coming back apart :(

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thewraith Member

thewraith

Posted
Posted

I ended up buying the new tube. Note that on a 1999 c4, the replacement of this little piece of garbage mystery of engineering was PURE HELL. I build engines and turbo applications and have been doing so for over 10 years now- this was hell to do and I would wholeheartedly say take it to a workshop to get it done.

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  • 4 weeks later...
996noob Member

996noob

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

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thewraith Member

thewraith

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

Edited by thewraith
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  • 2 weeks later...
996noob Member

996noob

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

I wish I had read your post before I attempted the DIY!! You were absolutely right. I broke the vertical coolant tube holder AND the hard plastic lines that go to the fuel tank.

In the end I found some other plastic tube to re-connect the broken fuel vent lines. I also bought a new coolant tube holder, luckily they had it in stock at the dealership.

The DIY was not as easy as I hoped, but I still got through it despite all the heart-attack-inducing moments when those plastic parts broke in my hands. I had hoped that the alternator did not have to be removed, but found that the upper bracket was blocking the access to one of the bolts holding the oil filler tube that I was going to replace.

I'm quite concerned about the plastic parts in the engine bay. They seem to be less resilient at their age compared to those on BMW's that I have worked on before and am more familiar with. That being said, the rubber hoses from porsche are far superior to anything I've seen. Very good quality from factory.

I have no idea how I would go about it if I wanted to replace those fuel vent lines. Is it even DIY-able? I hope someone can comment on this job, as I'd like to change them, they are far too brittle to be dependable at the moment.

Some advice on this job:

1) Make sure you have a second car around, you may need to buy parts you break along the way.

2) Have a 8mm (5/16") male-male barb hose connector handy and two hose clamps handy in case you break the hose holder (even if it is a new one!)

3) Some vacuum hose in case you break the fuel vent lines. They break at anytime, at any place, with little force. Scary.

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thewraith Member

thewraith

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

I wish I had read your post before I attempted the DIY!! You were absolutely right. I broke the vertical coolant tube holder AND the hard plastic lines that go to the fuel tank.

In the end I found some other plastic tube to re-connect the broken fuel vent lines. I also bought a new coolant tube holder, luckily they had it in stock at the dealership.

The DIY was not as easy as I hoped, but I still got through it despite all the heart-attack-inducing moments when those plastic parts broke in my hands. I had hoped that the alternator did not have to be removed, but found that the upper bracket was blocking the access to one of the bolts holding the oil filler tube that I was going to replace.

I'm quite concerned about the plastic parts in the engine bay. They seem to be less resilient at their age compared to those on BMW's that I have worked on before and am more familiar with. That being said, the rubber hoses from porsche are far superior to anything I've seen. Very good quality from factory.

I have no idea how I would go about it if I wanted to replace those fuel vent lines. Is it even DIY-able? I hope someone can comment on this job, as I'd like to change them, they are far too brittle to be dependable at the moment.

Some advice on this job:

1) Make sure you have a second car around, you may need to buy parts you break along the way.

2) Have a 8mm (5/16") male-male barb hose connector handy and two hose clamps handy in case you break the hose holder (even if it is a new one!)

3) Some vacuum hose in case you break the fuel vent lines. They break at anytime, at any place, with little force. Scary.

For the vent lines- I just went and got some fuel line hose and tucked the hard lines inside of it. Note that this may not be a good fix but is working for now. I imagine you could get to the hard vent lines from underneath the car possibly??

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cs jeff Member

cs jeff

Posted
Posted

I just went thru this DIY and got the part about removing the alternator. I have it loose, but it only swings up (clockwise) a short way before hitting the underside of the intake mainifold. I removed all the other brackets, lines, connectors, etc. that are in the way, but there's no way it will clear the bracket to slide out. Any ideas? Thanks.

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vette67 Member

vette67

Posted
Posted

Did you take the airbox out?

I just went thru this DIY and got the part about removing the alternator. I have it loose, but it only swings up (clockwise) a short way before hitting the underside of the intake mainifold. I removed all the other brackets, lines, connectors, etc. that are in the way, but there's no way it will clear the bracket to slide out. Any ideas? Thanks.
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thewraith Member

thewraith

Posted
Posted
Did you take the airbox out?

I just went thru this DIY and got the part about removing the alternator. I have it loose, but it only swings up (clockwise) a short way before hitting the underside of the intake mainifold. I removed all the other brackets, lines, connectors, etc. that are in the way, but there's no way it will clear the bracket to slide out. Any ideas? Thanks.

I can't speak for him but I'm pretty sure you have to remove the airbox to remove all the other things he mentioned above. Cs Jeff- I have now done this one two cars and had to strongarm it out both times.

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cs jeff Member

cs jeff

Posted
Posted

Yes... the airbox was out. I got it all done in the wee hours of the morning, but it was a real struggle. I did strong arm the alternator out finally. The real test was putting it back in. No one mentioned that you have to put the pully bolt back in the alternator and drive the bushing back to give the necessary clearance to get it back in place. The bushing was rusted and I had to use a ton of penetrant, but it finally moved. You hit it with a hammer but be careful, because if you use excessive force, you could break the corner off the alternator housing. Then getting the plenum back in place took some time too. The filler neck is a piece of cake... getting to it and getting everything back installed around it isn't!

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996noob Member

996noob

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

It seems that the small black hard plastic lines had broken again after the repair and some driving. There are two of them that attached to some sensor and go into the engine bay. Mine broke into so many pieces and disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay!

My question is, where do they connect to inside? I've been through the parts catalogue and can't come up with any answers. If some one could point out to me which diagram to look at, that would be great. I would want to buy the plastic lines and replce them if I knew where they connected on the other side.

Any help would be great!

Thanks.

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1999Porsche911 Member

1999Porsche911

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

It seems that the small black hard plastic lines had broken again after the repair and some driving. There are two of them that attached to some sensor and go into the engine bay. Mine broke into so many pieces and disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay!

My question is, where do they connect to inside? I've been through the parts catalogue and can't come up with any answers. If some one could point out to me which diagram to look at, that would be great. I would want to buy the plastic lines and replce them if I knew where they connected on the other side.

Any help would be great!

Thanks.

If the black tubes you are speaking about come from the electric changeover valve behind the alternator, one comes from the reserve vacuum tank under the left intake to the straight nipple on the valve. The other comes from the resonance flap on the back intake crossover tube to the nipple on the side of the valve. Tube from vaccum reserve should have vacuum at all times. The flap tube, if vacuum is applied, should close the flap which can be heard if you suck on the line.

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996noob Member

996noob

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

It seems that the small black hard plastic lines had broken again after the repair and some driving. There are two of them that attached to some sensor and go into the engine bay. Mine broke into so many pieces and disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay!

My question is, where do they connect to inside? I've been through the parts catalogue and can't come up with any answers. If some one could point out to me which diagram to look at, that would be great. I would want to buy the plastic lines and replce them if I knew where they connected on the other side.

Any help would be great!

Thanks.

If the black tubes you are speaking about come from the electric changeover valve behind the alternator, one comes from the reserve vacuum tank under the left intake to the straight nipple on the valve. The other comes from the resonance flap on the back intake crossover tube to the nipple on the side of the valve. Tube from vaccum reserve should have vacuum at all times. The flap tube, if vacuum is applied, should close the flap which can be heard if you suck on the line.

I did some seaching on the Forum and found this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25688 .

I think this might be it.

Is there a source for the hard tubes? There doesn't seem to be any part number to this tubing.

Do you think it would be a difficult fix to replace them? You mentioned it is to the iside intake area. Looks like a tight squeeze. If I have tackled the filler tube replacement, do you think I could tackle replacing the vacuum lines?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by 996noob
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1999Porsche911 Member

1999Porsche911

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 C2 3.4L a few months ago, so I'm new to this forum. Just signed up the other day.

While doing my first air cleaner change, I pulled out the filler tube from the air box clip and the accordion part broke, leaving it hanging and attached only by 10mm of plastic. Since it sheared off practically the whole way around one of the accordion folds, I think the epoxy method is going to be only a short term solution.

I recently bought a new tube. It's an updated part number 996 107 150 61. It used to be 996 107 150 60. I can report that the update is basically less accordion. The section of accordion that sits above the alternator pulley/belt is now just straight rigid tube.

I'm guessing that perhaps old shredding auxiliary belts are destroying oil filler tubes out there and they made it more rigid over that section. Just a theory though.

Anyway, I'm going to tackle the DIY replacement this Saturday I'll report back with my feedback later. Wish me luck!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK!

It seems that the small black hard plastic lines had broken again after the repair and some driving. There are two of them that attached to some sensor and go into the engine bay. Mine broke into so many pieces and disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay!

My question is, where do they connect to inside? I've been through the parts catalogue and can't come up with any answers. If some one could point out to me which diagram to look at, that would be great. I would want to buy the plastic lines and replce them if I knew where they connected on the other side.

Any help would be great!

Thanks.

If the black tubes you are speaking about come from the electric changeover valve behind the alternator, one comes from the reserve vacuum tank under the left intake to the straight nipple on the valve. The other comes from the resonance flap on the back intake crossover tube to the nipple on the side of the valve. Tube from vaccum reserve should have vacuum at all times. The flap tube, if vacuum is applied, should close the flap which can be heard if you suck on the line.

I did some seaching on the Forum and found this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25688 .

I think this might be it.

Is there a source for the hard tubes? There doesn't seem to be any part number to this tubing.

Do you think it would be a difficult fix to replace them? You mentioned it is to the iside intake area. Looks like a tight squeeze. If I have tackled the filler tube replacement, do you think I could tackle replacing the vacuum lines?

Thanks in advance!

That is the valve I am referring to. Valve part number 996 605 123 01 and the black hard tubes are 000 043 205 01 and come in various lengths. Any tube of similar diameter can be used and be found at an auto parts store.

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