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Hi All,

I have obtained a set of PSE mufflers and would like to know if i need anything special to install them ?

Do i need any gaskets or new clamps or are the old ones usually OK ? California Car with 13000 miles so the clamps shouldnt be corroded.

When the vacuum lines are routed thru the heat shield are grommets needed ?

Also, does anyone have a set of the electrical parts that they want to sell ?

I would like to try the full install at some point.

I can trace the wire route all the way until the panel behind the seat backs thru the the engine bay.

There is a huge rubber gromet on the back right corner of the engine bay. Is this the one that need to be cut the go the wires thru.? Can i then see them if i remove the two-screw panel behind the seat backs ?

BTW this is for a 2001 C4 Cab.

Thanks

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I have obtained a set of PSE mufflers and would like to know if i need anything special to install them ?

no just regular hand tools

Do i need any gaskets or new clamps or are the old ones usually OK ?

no, you can use the existing clamps that hold the old muffler pipe to the cats. Just clean it up.

When the vacuum lines are routed thru the heat shield are grommets needed ?

no, just poke a hole in the muffler heat shield that is in line with the hole in the body that leads to the engine compartment

I can trace the wire route all the way until the panel behind the seat backs thru the the engine bay.

There is a huge rubber gromet on the back right corner of the engine bay. Is this the one that need to be cut the go the wires thru?

The pass-through grommet plug is in the right front (of the engine) top of the engine compartment. That is the one that you cut an "X" in to pass the vacuum valve signal wires through. You can get at it from the top by putting the top in the service position, lifting the rear part of the soft top out of the way (do this by popping off the 2 wire ropes that are connected to the body), and pulling the felt carpet up. You can run the wire down between the rollover hoop mechanism, down to the rear quarter panel cover and then under the carpet up to the relay support bracket in the drivers footwell.

There is always someone that does not want to install the PSE electronics out there that will part with the relay, wires, etc. The pieces are actually very straight forward, you could just as soon make up a wiring harness, and get the relay, vacuum switch, and dash switch from the parts counter.

Here is my experience with installing a PSE

Good luck with it.

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Thanks Orient Express

One other question.

Is it better to route the wires from the relay board in the front of the car back to the engine, or from the engine forwards ?

Im a bit nervous of taking all the trim apart and dont want to do it twice

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Thanks Orient Express

One other question.

Is it better to route the wires from the relay board in the front of the car back to the engine, or from the engine forwards ?

Im a bit nervous of taking all the trim apart and dont want to do it twice

Where you are now, I once was. And after posting simular questions on another board a couple of years ago, I will relate was I was told. Just install them as they are without the electronics, and if you feel the need you can install them later.

That's what I did and don't regret it. The exhaust has a pleasent deep tone that I can't imagine would be offensive to anyone. Drive it conservatively and the sound is pretty mellow and doesn't draw any attention. Wind it up and the sound escalates proportionately with the rpms and still not overly loud but may draw appreciative glances from onlookers.

I don't think I would ever use the stock type quiet sound even if I could, so I don't think it's worth while to even hook it up. I think it was designed mainly so a manufacturer could use it and pass all noise related ordinances where applicable.

Edited by nick49
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Completely agree with Nick. While I don't have the PSE (I use Ruf cans), I can't ever imagine wanting to be quieter. In fact, I purposely rev a little longer to hear the blissful symphony while driving. Indeed, now that my hardtop is on the car for winter, the exhaust is sealed off more from me and I can't wait until spring when I can once again unleash the beast.

While the electronic switch may be cool to have, I question if you would have actually use it. Indeed, the first thing that I would do is make sure that the mid-rev bypass is deactivated.

Edited by nycebo
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One other question.

Is it better to route the wires from the relay board in the front of the car back to the engine, or from the engine forwards ?

I did the wiring on the relay support bracket first and then back to the engine bay. The 2 little wires that go back to the engine compartment are really thin, and easily concealed. I would suggest that you get a piece of flexible wire sleeve to put the wires in where they go through the engine compartment.

As far as the question of to install the silencing wiring or not, it is totally a personal choice. I did install it, and am very glad I did. In stop and go traffic, the low speed exhaust note with PSE in the loud mode is somewhat annoying, and it is very nice to be able to turn it off. I have to say that 90% of the time I have the exhaust in the loud mode, but that other 10% is well worth the effort.

If you do install the electrical wiring, be sure not to install the Pink/Grey wire as called for in the instructions. This is the speed sensor line that will activate the "auto-quiet" mode at 29-40 mph.

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