Leaderboard

In case it helps someone else in this situation, I discovered removing the fan and shroud allows sufficient access to remove the pump. This means no radiator work is needed besides the shroud removal. Should I need to drain or remove the rad in the future, I'll just take off the fan housing (and trust me, that's not a fun job, either!) You then then have access to the lower radiator hose to release the clip.

I wanted to reply to this topic to give an update. I wish I had a definitive answer to this problem. I decided to remove the Y pipe that the sensor in question is attached to. I wanted to check it for cracks or damage or some type of leak. I ended up breaking a hose connector on the bottom of this pipe that was very brittle. The hose was filled with oil and some moisture. This hose was connected to the PCV (engine crankcase vent valve). I decided to replace the hose and the Crankcase vent valve. A month has gone by and so far so good.

So I just replaced THREE (yes 3) rear door lock actuators. To recap: Left rear door exterior handle would not open the door after unlocking with keyfob or by proximity. Right rear door would not lock (and no confirmation beep). Since it was a bigger security issue, I replaced the RR first and decided to experiment by buying the $37 actuator from Hong Kong as found on eBay. The door lock would now physically lock, but the alarm would not set. Occasionally, the exterior handle would not work either. I was unable to clear DTC 000843 Central locking closing unit, implausible signal. Due to my experience with the $37 part, I decided to splurge for the $91 URO Parts actuator for the left side. This part worked perfectly and solved the problem. I then went back to Rock Auto and bought the URO Parts right side actuator (why this one costs $17 more than the left side remains one of those mysteries). The RR door is now working perfectly, all codes reset and alarm confirmation chirps occur when locking. Lessons learned: The screws that clamp the window regulator to the window glass are reverse threaded (at least as viewed from inside the car, the E-Torx end, size E-6). Pay attention to the torque specs here (4.5 ft-lb). If you shear this end off, you will kick yourself and likely spend the next week trying to figure out how to loosen that screw--ask me how I know. Reassembling: in order to reinsert the automatic shade rod, you will have to lift the door panel to the exact level that automatically disengages the upper tweeter connector--a mere 1 inch more of tweeter wire would have made this job almost too easy. I suggest you test the stereo before putting all the trim back on, my diagnostic tool speaker test warned me (an embarrassing number of times) that I had accidentally disengaged that connector! And yes, you will break at least one of these: 955 555 243 00.