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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    ... and you have checked the fuses?
  2. Loren
    Removing interior light cover 1. Using a small screwdriver, carefully unclip both cover lenses 1 at the openings provided. 2. Undo fastening screws 2. Unclip cover 3 at the rear left and right, push forward towards the windscreen and remove. 3. Disconnect the electrical plug connection of the sliding roof rocker switch 4 and the interior light 5. Removing sun visors and brackets Unclipping front plastic lining 1. Undo fastening screws 6 in the plastic lining 7 at the front and unclip the lining out of the cowl panel frame 8 in a downward direction at the left and right. Detaching roof liner at sides 1. Unclip the metal strut of the roof liner 9 from the plastic clips 10 at the right and left. Disengaging rear plastic lining 1. Pull the rear plastic lining 7 towards the rear out of the roof frame 11 evenly on the left and right and disengage. Disengaging metal strut 1. Pull the metal brace 9 contained in the fabric pocket down in the center so that it bends. Pull the metal strut 12 out of the bracket on the left and right. Disengaging frame 1. Pull the frame of the sliding roof cut-out 13 backwards and downwards in the center at the front so that the frame overlap at the corners is reduced and it is possible to pull it out in a downward direction. Then pullout the roof frame diagonally via the sliding roof cut-out inwards into the passenger compartment. Install is the reverse.
  3. Loren
    All of the warnings you are listing are on the B connector (blue). You should remove the cluster again and make sure the blue connector is properly connected and locked.
  4. Loren
    They are both in the boot under the top - behind a panel. Contributing Member izzyandsue showed how to get at that panel in his Cab top hydraulic fluid DIY here. See the pics for top positioning, panel removal and access to the DME, Tip controller and top controller.
  5. Loren
    The front rotors are a different design than the rears. I do not have a VIN list for RoW (HK vehicles). You will need to see a dealer for that.
  6. Loren
    Yes.
  7. Loren
    Try searching for "headliner"
  8. Loren
    Your rotors look normal. The TSB instructs the dealer to replace the brake pads - at no charge - if your car is on the VIN list of those affected.
  9. Loren
    Just click on Donate at the top of any page... Thanks.
  10. Loren
    1. Remove the cover trim at the left and right towards the front - by simply pulling it off. 2. Unscrew the fastening screw on each side. 3. Pull the sound package in the towards the front of the car and out of the bracket and fold over. 4. Disconnect the electrical plugs press side and pull apart.
  11. Loren
    See the 3rd radiator instructions here. Bumper removal is described there (it is the same for a 996 and 986).
  12. Loren
    Re-teach the Windows
  13. Loren
    Have a look at the Porsche CPO list here.
  14. Loren
    Sorry, there are no instructions because Porsche sells only the whole headlight assembly.
  15. Loren
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7592
  16. Loren
    TSB 2/05 W551 W551 – Replacing Brake Pads -- dated 3-18-2005 This TSB (as well as all other TSBs) are available here to view by our Contributing Members.
  17. Loren
    No, not to my knowledge. Look at your options list - under your front hood. If option code M601 is not on the list then you don't have Bi-Xenon.
  18. Loren
    Carrera III - 18" wheels (for 997 wide bodies) Fronts: 57 mm Rears: 51 mm
  19. Loren
    The only lights available in MY02 were standard Halogen (H7 and H9 bulbs) or Bi-Xenon (D2S). Only the Bi-Xenon had self leveling (or as Porsche calls it "Dynamic automatic beam angle adjustment" - AHBA). The dynamic beam angle adjustment for the Bi-Xenon system equates to the unit fitted into Carrera and Boxster models (986/996) and 911 Turbo since model year '99. The system is a major contribution to road traffic safety. Automatic correction of the beam angle when the load on the car changes or during pitching movements of the car caused by braking and accelerating reliably prevents dazzling of oncoming traffic and improves road surface illumination on braking.
  20. Loren
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=55669
  21. Loren
    http://www.renntech.org/reviewpost/showpro...t=17&cat=31
  22. Loren
    Okay, I usually do that with the mufflers off the car. You will need to spread the clamp more then with pliers.
  23. Loren
    That would be the spring spacer compensation part - green is the thick spacer and white is thinner one.
  24. Loren
    Pry them off with a screwdriver - but without bending the clamps.
  25. Loren
    175 to 180 for coolant is normal. For oil temperature anything under 250 is fine and even at track events or very hot days 250 for a while is okay. 275 or over and I would be concerned.
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