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Everything posted by Loren

  1. I beleive it is a T-20 Security Torx. If you can't find it locally, then you can get one here for about $2.20 (LOL -- $10 minimum order).
  2. :lol: :lol: :lol: Not all of the bay area is cold. I live in Morgan Hill, CA... about 75 miles South of San Francisco. We have had aver 30 days of 100 degree plus weather this year topping out at 106. Trust me... 94 degrees yesterday -- Morgan Hill is not cold.
  3. This really depends on your driving style. I am also running S03s and I found that cold pressures of 32 front and 36 rear was a good balance for my driving style. You can try different settings until you find what suits your style best. Just stay above 32 psi (cold).
  4. If you are talking about the lower track arms... GT3, GT2 and Cupcars have adjustable lower track arms (with shims). Regular Carrera, Boxster and TT do not have adjustable lower track arms -- unless you change them out with factory or 3rd party (The Racers Group, Smart Racing Products, etc.) parts.
  5. I don't know the price of the part -- sorry. The fuel pump on a C4 requires a special tool to remove it and insert it. Plus removing all the lines (top and bottom side) and draining the remaining fuel from the pump and most of the tank. Installation requires a physical alignment of the housing and reconnecting the (5) lines. Once it is in and both fuel and electrical lines are connected (fumes removed via shop exhaust fans) it must be re-calibrated. Calibration requires 12 liters of fuel only to set the sensor so they will need to finish refilling the tank after calibration. In "shop time" I would guess 2-3 hours times their hourly rate.
  6. Well, I'm not sure what you are after, here are the measurement differences: 295/30/18 Sidewall: 3.4 in Radius: 12.4 in Diameter: 24.7 in Circumference: 77.7 in Revolutions/Mile: 815.0 295/35/18 Sidewall: 3.9 in Radius: 12.9 in Diameter: 25.9 in Circumfrence: 81.2 in Revolutions/Mile: 780.0 Besides the tire being 0.5 inches taller in the sidewall and 1.2 in overall diameter you speedometer error will increase (revs/mile) by 4.5%. So your speedometer would be slow (i.e. speedo reads 60 MPH you are actually traveling 62.7). Perhaps Viken can add some comments?
  7. You can check out this $125 scan software and cable (if you have a laptop to use)... See this post
  8. Shims for the track control arm MY04 GT3. 996 341 543 90 Shim 1 mm 996 341 543 91 Shim 2 mm 996 341 543 92 Shim 3 mm 996 341 543 93 Shim 7 mm They all appear to be special order.
  9. I don't think multiple spacers are safe. If you are going to use spacers use the correct width and longer bolts. To be safe check with some company like Wheel Enhancement. They have done almost every wheel possible and I have found their advice to be sound. Talk to John Brown if possible.
  10. The PST2 is the ($8000) Porsche diagnostic computer. It does much more than OBDII as it is used for the ABS, OBC, Instrument Cluster and new MOST bus computers. Your MIL and fault can likely be reset with any commercially available scan tool. The 55 minutes I spoke of is really to check that another fault (same or different fault) is not triggered after replacing the suspect part. The fault number usually points to a list of suspected causes -- so if the dealer told you MAF sensor that is likely at the top of the list. The dealer would do the same, replace the part and see if you get another fault... then if you do replace the next item on the list etc. So, you can certainly do this yourself but if it throws another MIL and fault you will then need to diagnose that fault also.
  11. If you have the MY04 TT stock wheels (Technology or Monoblock Top) then the offset on the front is 50 mm and rear is 45 mm.
  12. I would be a little concerned with the 33 mm offset since that will move the wheel/tire further in-board towards the suspension. I am not saying it won't work I'm saying you will need to look at it closely to make sure it will not hit suspension or brake compnents during the full suspension travel.
  13. ET is the wheel offset in millimeters. Offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. If you want your new wheels to fit without any rubbing for sure -- then choosing wheels with the factory widths and offsets should work great. Spacers are usually used to move the offset further out. This may or may not cause problems depending on your tire an wheels widths. Again, Porsche recommends accepted spacers for each of their cars. In general if you go with a wider wheel then you can use a wider tire. You should again check with Porsche and folks like TireRack.com to verify that tires are available for your wheels widths. Perhaps. Again going with Porsche widths and offsets should be pretty safe. For instance, your MY04 TT could use GT2 wheels and tires since the fender dynamics are the same. You could go with 8.5 x 18 et 40 front wheels and 12 x 18 et 45 rear wheels. With tires like: 235/40 ZR 18 front and 315/30 ZR 18 rear.
  14. Loren

    Help adjusting Xenons

    5 mm allen wrench. It might be a little tight but it should turn both ways.
  15. Yes, there is a TSB for this problem. I sent it to you via email.
  16. According to Porsche the pads should not be allowed to get below 2mm thickness. There is a pad change DIY in the DIY section here
  17. Nope, the rubber mat is 996 552 596 00. You can find more discussion here
  18. The Carrera Service Manuals always have included the GT3 (Mk 1) even though the original car was not sold in the US. The MY04 GT3 information is just starting to show up in the Carrera Service Manuals. I think the first supplement with MY04 GT3 is supplement 75 so make sure you get all the latest supplements (through 80 if possible). You will likely need to buy supplements ($8-10 each) as they add more MY04 GT3 information. So, you want to order WKD-483-721.
  19. Same as above but you will need different wheel carriers. Master cylinder should be okay. LOL... if it were a C4S I think this would be easy (TT running gear).
  20. It appears as though every major part of the MOST system has it's own "control module" for communication with the CAN bus of the instrument cluster. DME, etc. For instance, the PCMII will shut itself down if the VIN in the instrument cluster does not match it's stored information within 30 seconds. My guess is that the radio and CD changer (as well as the other MOST components do the same.) Pretty slick... I guess. ;)
  21. All the part numbers look correct. The PCMII main unit is the newest part number available (there have already been 3 versions). Perhaps the hardest part is coding all the options in the PST2? Be sure and test ALL the features before you leave...
  22. What is the kit part number? What options do you have in your car already? (CD Changer?, Amp?, Bose or Harman Sound?, Telephone?) There was supposed to be a TSB instruction for retrofitting the PCMII but no one I know has seen it yet. I do have several hundred pages (368 to be exact) of diagnostic and troubleshooting info. This is pretty much all fiber optic so it's almost plug 'n play. You will still need a dealer with a PST2 to activate the additional components (once they are installed). For what you likely paid (a bunch) I would press the dealer very hard for some install info. We are happy to help as best we can... :D
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