Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Loren

  1. They are using the Yellows on the GT3 and as the base pad on the Cup Cars. I think this is a good street/track pad.
  2. Loren

    GT3 shop manuals

    The GT3 (both Mk1 and Mk 2) are covered in the Carrera Workshop Manuals. Carrera (1999 on) -- Workshop Manual -- 88 supplements -- 15 volumes -- WKD-483-721 Now the bad news... Porsche more than tripled the price of manuals on Jan 1. They were $478 for the set and I don't even want to guess what they are now! :rolleyes:
  3. That part number has been replaced by 955 618 029 02. All the parts list says is "control unit rear end". It is about $100 cheaper than the original part number. (The original number was $306).
  4. Send a message to Jay-Three . He did it with using a painted plug from BumperPlugs.com. About a 30 min job as I recall.
  5. Sorry, they won't fit anything older than a MY02. The rear bumper design changed in MY02 and they can use those nice 4 pipe tailpipes... unless of course you install the newer rear bumper ;)
  6. I would look for any rattles as they likely mean internal welds have come loose. Also, any sign of external damage.
  7. Well if you are removing all of the PSE components that's quite a job. The wiring goes from the engine compartment to the relay panel near the drivers left foot. And then there is all the vacuum stuff in the engine compartment. If you are just getting the mufflers then that is easy. The valves on the mufflers are normally in the open position (loud). To close the valves you use a vacuum connection from the engine (that is controlled by an electronic solenoid). What type of install are you planning? Just mufflers or the whole thing?
  8. Fuel filter, spark plugs, water in gas? Could be lots of things. Best to just start eliminating variables.
  9. Yes, yes, and yes. Wouldn't hurt. I run a bottle through about every 3000 miles or so. Your MY99 C2 is not e-gas - you have a conventional throttle cable and linkage. I would remove the air cleaner intake and have a look at the throttle body and butterfly. These tend to carbon up and I use spray Gumout or Gumout on a lint free rag to clean them. Further diagnosis would like require a scanner and or scope to see if one cylinder is causing the problem. If it is one cylinder then it could be a stuck or leaky injector or even a bad spark plug. I have even seen rough idle caused by a cracked oi
  10. I believe the first year it was offered as a factory option was MY03. It was introduced as an aftermarket option in 1999 though. The earlier version (that I own) has smaller bypass pipes than the one in the pic.
  11. Engine alone lists for $42,000 (and that is exchange). I didn't even mention suspension or brake changes to match the turbo either...
  12. Exhaust tips do not define a PSE at all. Any tip that fits a standard exhaust will fit a PSE. You will need to crawl under the car and look at your mufflers and see if the valves are there. Standard mufflers to not have the bypass pipes and valves. Here is a pic of a PSE muffler (w/valves)
  13. Well anything is possible... for the right amount of money. Here are your really big issues: TT is different base engine (same as GT2 and GT3). All current TT's are 4WD. Both rear fenders would need to be reworked to adding cooling vents and fit the turbos. Likely easier and cheaper to buy a TT Cab ;)
  14. Put the filter back on the car and then tap it off (carefully) with a hammer.
  15. No they are not SS braided. SS braided lines need to be tightened often as they are stiffer and they tend to unscrew themselves when trying to flex. Good for race cars that are checked and retightened every race but not such a good idea for street cars. IMHO of course...
  16. Way too new to have pad or rotor issues. I wounder if the power assist has a problem or like Don said a leak in the hydraulic system. A leak doesn't necessarily mean fluid coming out. It could be the master cylinder is not holding pressure.
  17. Based on the cars age and mileage I would have them look/change the brake fluid, pads and perhaps rotors. Really need some history of the car to make a better guess.
  18. If the previous owner wired it correctly then all you should need is a new switch. Just reroute the wires to the new switch.
  19. IMHO I think you were over-charged. To do a RMS you need to drop the tranny and I know they can do that in under 2 hours. There is no difference - just installing a different transmission and a test drive.
  20. Yes loosen and move the horseshoe piece. The easiest method is to use a butter knife under the bottom edge with a soft cloth to protect the leather and CF. You do not need to remove any switches - just let it dangle. Then press in on the spring clamps and pull the PCM unit until you can see connectors.
  21. Remove the two dash switch side pieces (with the switches but not part of the PCM I). On the side of the PCM unit there are spring clamps. Push those in to release the PCM I unit and pull straight out.
  22. I have the factory TSB if you need it... PM me with your email address if you want a copy.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.