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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Loren
    The early kit and late kit are slightly different. The relays are different and the later kit has the option of a dash switch. PM me which set of instructions you want.
  2. Loren
    Theoretically a good idea... but most folks will not have access to the tools they need. You need an engine support tool when you drop the transmission as the RMS is changed with the engine in the car (the transmission is removed to provide access). You also need to test the seal bore for to see that it is concentric and has the proper diameter (all the way around). Porsche dealers have go-no-go tool for this and if your engine fails - you get a new (rebuilt) engine. They are also instructed to check the intermediate shaft seal and replace the four crankcase (halves) bolts. In the end all of these things are supposed to minimize your risk of have a 2nd or 3rd occurrence.
  3. Loren
    Perhaps it is: ;) Campaign Check #1: W501 Workshop Campaign: Check and Adjust Rear Window in Tailgate to correct rattle 850 Vehicles involved and/or Campaign Check #2 W502 Workshop Campaign Check and Adjust Rear Lid to correct rattle in Rear 562 Vehicles involved and/or Campaign Check #17 W523 Workshop Campaign Replacing both Spring Shocks for Rear Lid 1,136 Vehicles involved
  4. Loren
    The coolant being low will not cause a CEL. A loose gas cap or oil filler cap will - among a host of other emissions based problems. If the car is running ok then start with the two caps. There are two horns behind the front bumper - it is fairly common to have one or both go bad. Some folks have replaced them with air horns and some put new factory ones back in.
  5. Loren
    Try to keep your image size 1024x768 and less. They will download faster and use less disk space.
  6. Loren
    They all go to the speedometer A signal. They are used by other computers/relays in your car (i.e. PSE, PCM, etc.).
  7. Loren
    Glad it's taken care of. I use a bottle of Cheveron Techron (in the gas) about every 3000 miles to keep things clean.
  8. Loren
    This DIY now resides in the RennTech.org DIY Section here. Thanks ebaker!
  9. Loren
    I spent 4 weeks on it... then I sent it back.
  10. Loren
    ^ ^ ^ Also, covered in the DIY section... :D
  11. Loren
    :lol: at the top and bottom of every page...
  12. Loren
    Have a look at the thread here
  13. Loren
    Well, if it were mine I would take off the air cleaner from the throttle body and see if there is black carbon build up. If so, I would use some carb cleaner on the inside of the throttle body until it is clean. Since your car is egas you will need to move the butterfly with your finger to get inside the throttle body. It's okay to use a rag as long as it is lint and deposit free.
  14. Loren
    Some thoughts... Same tank of gas? How many miles on the car? When was the fuel filter changed last? Have you cleaned the throttle body (inside) with carb cleaner?
  15. Loren
    Good Luck - I had one of those and after several calls to the manufacturer we could never get it to stop throwing CELs. I am sure it was the problem because I could put the stock (BMC so almost stock) air intake back on, reset the CEL and it would not come on again.
  16. Loren
    Same grease and sealer for a 4WD Carrera.
  17. Loren
    Use the plugs Porsche recommends and save your self a lot of hassle. For MY98-01 use 999 170 207 91. The street markings are Beru 14 FGR 6 KQU.
  18. Loren
    That is the grease the parts list calls out. They also call out a sealing compound for the driveshaft 000 043 205 36.
  19. Loren
    If you are replacing the calipers too then nothing changes from the rotor process. You will need to bleed the new calipers well though. See the brake replacement DIY and the brake bleeding DIY. Then let me know what questions you have.
  20. Loren
    Depending on your RSS reader this is fairly easy to do now. Here is an example: http://www.renntech.org/forums/ssi.php?a=out&f=2,21,53,3,4,23&show=10&type=rss This would give you all the Carrera forums, with GT3 and TT/GT2. "f" is the forum number (mouse over a forum title and you can see that). The show 10 would show the last 10 articles. I'll also try and get the KlipFolio RSS feed updated also. (more on that here)
  21. Loren
    My advice is to buy two. Okay, I'm not quite out of my mind - here is why. Buy a good quality one for changing wheels - where the wrench is likely going to be dropped and where a few ft/lbs won't make a difference. I have a Sears for changing wheels and Proto for engine work. Then if you plan on doing engine or suspension work buy the higher end wrench that has more precision (and don't drop it). If you do drop it then the higher end wrenches can usually be sent out for re-calibration. Just my 2 cents... Also, I think it is a good idea to release the tension (set to 0 torque) on your wrench when it is not is use.
  22. Loren
    Look at the sticker on the drivers door and tell us what month and year the car was made. Some of the very early MY99's needed some updates. Not to worry as I have a MY99 also. Looks like you have a partial aerokit too (front bumper, side skirts and rear fender skirts) - but no rear wing? :welcome:
  23. Loren
    Did you try using the key to unlock the door? The remote alarm shuts down after 5 days to save battery life.
  24. Loren
    For a 2000 C2 Coupe in Black it is: 996 555 557 05 A03 Cover, interior light
  25. Loren
    Not very easy to see since it is behind one of the intake pipes on the right side of the engine. It mounts on a little plate and has a short probe that sticks out into the air.
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