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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. Antonio, I've see the exterior paint at several outside companies like PaintScratch.com but have not seen any interior touch up kits. Might be worth asking one of these companies for something like that... but short term I think the dealer is your only choice -- sorry.
  2. I've done the same. As long as your air cleaner is clean (and also not too oily) and you have no air leaks -- it should protect the engine from anything harmful. A number of companies sell kits that do the same plus remove the air babble and plug the hole that is left by doing so. You just did 90% of that and for a lot less than $120 :lol: :thumbup:
  3. 999 141 038 07 Torx Bolt (E12) All seats EXCEPT the (RoW) GT3 seat use the same bolts.
  4. Here is what the service manual says for (old) GT3, GT2 and TT... Both have a soft crush ring so I doubt 44 or 52 lbs will make much difference.
  5. 000 721 920 40 (about $7 at your dealer)
  6. The flywheel does not have to be removed for the test. It's really hard to say with an RPM only type of vibration. If the clutch feels funny (buzzing) or you've heard any "other" noises from the clutch/bell housing then I would go after the throwout bearing and actuator as those are known to be a problem on the early cars.
  7. IMHO... Yes, I think there is a relation. I think what you are describing is drivetrain related. Sometimes a small crack is very hard to see in both motor or transmission mounts. The flywheel test must be carried out as follows to rule it out: 1. The twist test on the DMF described below must be carried out by hand and without any tools. The test can be carried out in installed or removed status. (In removed status, a second person is required to counter hold). 2. Can the DMF be twisted by approx. 15 mm to both the left and the right, and does it then return to approximately its initial position? -- Yes, flywheel is okay. 3. Can the DMF be twisted beyond the dimension stated above (excessive turn) without a noticeable increase in the spring force? -- Yes, then the flywheel is faulty. Other potential causes could be an out of balance clutch plate (since you said this was replaced) or a loose or bad throw out bearing. The release arm (assembly) of the throw out bearing was changed in MY2000 so you might want to make sure the newer parts were used. In the end is sounds like someone familiar with these changes should inspect the car. Again, just IMHO
  8. 996 512 821 90 Adjusting Mechanism 4 Grad 996 512 823 90 Adjusting Mechanism 8 Grad The parts list does not say 1 pair or 2 each but I would assume they are sold in pairs. Best check with the dealer when they place your order.
  9. Updated September 6, 2003 Here is an updated list of TSBs for the GT3: 1701 5/02 Engine Oils Approved by Porsche 5-23-03 4440 1/03 Summer Tires and Wheels 3-28-03 4440 5/03 Winter Tire, Wheel, & Snow Chain Applications 8-22-03* 4636 3/03 Brake Pads - Standard Brakes/PCCB Brakes 8-22-03* 6959 2/03 New Passenger's Airbag 6-27-03 6829 3/03 Illuminated Vanity Mirror - Light Inoperative 6-27-03 * New this month ** Updated this month
  10. All the Porsche OEM wheels are either 50 mm or 52 mm offset. I don't see any reason why you can't get the 5 mm offset built into the wheels (as long as it is correct). I don't think the 235s will rub even with the 5 mm spacers. The fronts rub first on the inside -- and only 245s rub a little at lock to lock.
  11. Kevin, The part numbers I gave you were the pattern examples. As I said there are several part numbers. Why don't you give us part numbers for the old and new and then we can check what model they are for? Thanks!
  12. Here are the Porsche approved tires: Tire Size Front: 225/40 ZR 18 Rear: 285/30 ZR 18 Tires: - Bridgestone Potenza S-02A N3 Directional - Continental Sport Contact 2 N2 Side-directional - Michelin Pilot Sport N1 Directional - Pirelli P-ZERO ROSSO N4 Side-directional Approved 18 wheels (w/offsets) are: - Front: 8J X 18 offset - 50.0/52.0 - Rear: 10J X 18 offset - 65.0 5 mm spacers are approved on all four wheels. 17 mm spacers on the rear wheels and 5 mm spacers on the front are also approved with use of proper (longer) wheel bolts. "Unofficially" With the 8" front wheel you can go 235/40 ZR 18 tire without any rubbing and it will reduce understeer a little. A couple of brands of 295/30 ZR 18 rear tires are reported to not rub (or require fender rolling) but I can't recommend any especially if you are lowering the car. Perhaps you can tell if this is a street car or track car and others can recommend tire/wheel combinations for both.
  13. Yes, C2 and C4 have different numbers. There are several for each. C2 numbers start with: 996 641 103 02 or 996 641 104 03 etc. and C4 numbers start with: 996 641 113 03 or 996 641 114 03 etc.
  14. The rear one is behind the left rear taillight. Remove the lens assembly and you can see it. If you need to fish it out you must go under the rear bumper between the heat shields. The front one is behind the right front headlight (from the factory) and is very difficult to get to. You would need to pull the wheel liner back to reach that one. What a lot of folks (including me) have done on the front is to relocate it behind the plastic tow hook plug in the front bumper. You can secure it there with a short piece of fishing line and wrap it around the plug. Pull the plug out and you have easy access. :D
  15. My guess is they will likely fix it a third time. If it fails a fourth time... I think they will negotiate what you want ;) ;)
  16. Yes. TSB's that refer to a parts change or update sometimes include a VIN before and after. This would be the VIN after which the fix has been included in production. So only the cars before that VIN "should" need that fix. In a few cases specific VINs are called out for limited recall (i.e. some MY02 Carrera 6 speed transmissions). You can buy a book (and for the newer ones a CD-ROM) with all the TSBs for a given set of years. Problem is these are usually published about once a year so many times that is a year after they come out. A better (more up-to-date) source is an online service like AllDataDIY.com. For $21.95 ($14.95 renewal) you get the TSBs for your car and a pseudo online service manual.
  17. I seem to recall that the issue is disconnecting the battery (or in this case the instrument cluster computer) with 1/4 or less tank of gas. I think the way to fix it is to fill the tank -- disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect the battery.
  18. Spider, There are two TSB's for clutch issues but they are for much older cars (MY99 and MY00). Your MY03 should already have the new parts. Can you tell if the sound/feel are at the pedal or in the clutch bell housing?
  19. I beleive it is a T-20 Security Torx It is on the air cleaner housing on the right side. You will need to squeeze the connector and unplug the cable first. The air cleaner does not need to come out but this is the only pic I have that clearly shows the MAF sensor. You will need access to an ODBII scan tool (like the one I mentioned in this post) or get a dealer with a PST2 to do it for you.
  20. Gery, Have a look at this post and decide if this is something you want to do... MAF DIY Question
  21. I sent you a PDF via email. :wrench:
  22. I've always like the Porsche Sport Designs... but these are very good looking wheels! :thumbup:
  23. Are those a version of the Tequipment 6 point belts or an Exclusive option?
  24. There were three total versions of the PSE . The two versions of the later PSE had the larger bypass pipes. The earliest version with small pipes had part numbers: 996 111 984 00 and 996 111 985 00. This would be the small tube version that would only work on cars through MY01 (3.4 liter). The later version(s) with the larger tube (see photo below) will work on all MY cars -- just don't mix the mufflers (from the old and new versions).
  25. Are you asking about wires on the dash switch or under the seat? (I deleted your second post asking the same question)
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