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Loren

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Everything posted by Loren

  1. That is the correct number.
  2. Perhaps you should try the shifter in another Boxster. I would not describe the stock shifter feel as "heavy". Perhaps your car has a problem with the shifter or cables?
  3. Odd that the RoW cars don't have that.
  4. TT and GT2 have fuel coolers but not the 996 Carrera.
  5. I the couple of these that I have heard of were both a worn or pinched wire under the seat. If you decide to remove the seat yourself be sure to disconnect the battery so you don't get an airbag light.
  6. Did you have it turned on in the cluster and DME both? (using a PST2 or PIWIS tester)
  7. I agree. ... and there is no need to double post.
  8. At least when it leaks now... it won't get the contents of the trunk wet :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
  9. Are you talking to Jeff Clark at Sunset Imports? He definitely know the difference between US and RoW M030 suspensions. Perhaps there is a misunderstanding. You could always order it from Gert@carnewal.com -- because of the strong Euro you will pay a bit more.
  10. Sunset Imports can get you RoW parts they just take longer since they are not sold in the US. RoW M030 is the standard for Sport Suspension everywhere except US/Canada. Just be sure you want 30 mm lower.
  11. If you live in the US take the car to an Autozone or other parts supply business and get your fault codes read for free. Check for a P0102 fault. P0102 is the same error you will get if the MAF is unplugged. This can also cause ABS and PSM lights to come on as the DME is not sensing the PSM data and combining it with the throttle position and mass air flow readings.
  12. Look for leaks in the rear trunk (lift the carpet) and near the left right rear wheel. Also, check around the (blue) cap for leaks. If your cap part number does not end in "01" it should be replaced. If you don't have any leaks then it is likely a bad level sensor.
  13. I would say the first step is hook the car up to a PST2 and see what the faults are? Since parts have been removed and either replaced or re-installed then a calibration would be in order also (PST2 again). Where are you located?
  14. That number (000.044.500.27) is for the (10 mm lower) US M030 suspension MY02-04, Coupe, 6-speed. If you want the ROW M030 (30 mm lower) then it is 000.044.500.35.
  15. Says a lot. My transmission/clutch does not rattle either... Hmm... maybe time to find a new shop... but I said that before... ;)
  16. Sorry, I posted the wrong part numbers - I have edited that post above. The last part number you posted (997.333.053.24) is for a 997TT.
  17. One more item I would like to mention... I think that if for some reason the cam sensor is not working and there IS a cam or cam chain problem it could be very serious (i.e. like putting a valve through a piston). On earlier Porsche's if you had a timing chain problem (or chain rail) the result was usually a bad collision of the piston and valves. I think that is why any cam sensor failure is flagged by the DME as a fault. So, I guess I am saying you want a cam sensor and you want it working to detect any problems and warn you prior to any serious damage.
  18. Uh... LVDell is writing this up (not me). Try PMing him ;)
  19. Probably a P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor 1 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ and/or P1397 Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ and a CEL.
  20. Again, if your problems are only lights related that would point to the light switch. If you have other electrical problems then that would point to ignition switch. What you are saying here is lights only so I would go for the light switch.
  21. Yes, they could be. I would reset them and drive the car for a few days and see if they come back.
  22. Stage 2 overrevs are potentially engine damaging. Stage 1 overrevs are ones that the DME caught and didn't allow the engine to continue. Stage 2 overrevs are uncontrolled and are usually caused by missed down shifts where the engine is forced to run faster than it can or spinning the car and not putting the clutch in where the engine can actually run backwards. I personally would stay away from a car with stage 2 overrevs - unless they want to offer you a 3 year unconditional engine warranty ;)
  23. I usually stat with both bars in their last (or next last link). Then I drive the car. I add stiffness at the end that needs it most - to fit my driving style.
  24. Has anybody looked at the fuel trim readings with a PST2 (or high end OBD II scan tool)? -- and mass air flow? I wonder if your MAF is giving errant readings thus telling the DME to lean the mixture?
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