jchapura

I don't have a specific battery load testing tool. Nor a recording multi-meter to capture the voltage while cranking the starter. Is there any risk to taking the battery out of the car and taking the battery to an auto parts store to use their load tester? For example, will any computers/settings be (semi-permanently or permanently) lost that would then need a PIWIS to get going again? Or, should I buy a battery load testing tool? I see they range from $40 (no-name on Amazon) to $130 (Foxwell BT705)? Or, should I just buy a new battery?

My 2005 C2S 997.1 has been sitting for a few months. It has been on a CTEK battery maintainer. I took it out for a one hour drive today. Just after engine startup, at the end of the drive, and another engine startup after a two hour rest in the garage (water temp gage showing about 120degF), it exhibited symptoms I'd not seen before. Immediately at startup with a cold engine, the engine compartment fan came on and stayed on. About 30 seconds after engine startup, both cold engine and warm engine, both radiator fans came on and stayed on. I have a Durametric and captured the following fault codes while the engine was running (I traversed every menu item on the left of app window): C140 C141 C131 C152 (I think this is due to the inactivation and removal of the PASM module when I converted to coilovers) 8004 8028 8029 8042 FWIW, I was not in ECO mode so the air conditioner compressor was probably running. I was trying to recirculate the freon and oil. (I usually run in ECO mode.) FWIW, there's no CEL indicator showing on the instrument display. Engine water temp about 105degF. Started engine. Engine compartment fan is on. Within 30 seconds both radiator fans roaring (seemingly like they are on high). Using Durametric, went to Front/Activations and found 3 "Radiator fans" (not sure why there's 3). See pic below. First entry - clicked STOP. Nothing happened. Second entry - clicked STOP. Nothing happened. Third entry - clicked STOP. Nothing happened. First entry - clicked START. One of the front fans (or maybe both, it got quiet) slowly spun down and then 10 seconds later it went back to high. Second entry - clicked START. One of the front fans (or maybe both, it got quiet) slowly spun down and then 10 seconds later it went back to high. Third entry - clicked START. Nothing happened. Toggling the ECO button on the climate control didn't seem to make any difference. Gas has Stabil in it. Battery's installation date is July 2014. Yesterday, after the battery-maintained multi-month inactivity, the car acted OK - normal starter rotation speed and fire-up time. Today, battery's voltage after sitting all night, NOT on the battery maintainer, is 12.67v. Why might these fans be acting abnormally?

I think the carbon cannister is in the frunk. I think the fuel vapor detection pump is in/near the carbon cannister. Here are some Katalog snippets. [I later attached a frunk pic from Rennlist.]

I would have asked for more info/evidence from the salesman. The service records. What pre-sales work was done on the car. Type of oil used at the oil changes. The AOS-related crankcase vacuum. The borescope video or pics. The spark plug pics. Type of climate in which the car has resided during its life. Based on new info, I then might have had it PPI-ed. All of this let's you negotiate from a better position. (I'm surprised the salesman left the exhausts oily. Oversight? Hint to the unsuspecting customer? Just not knowledgeable about oil in the exhaust? After the new info was collected, I would have then asked the salesman specifically about the oily exhaust. Part of your discovery is to try to learn their ethical standard.)

I don't have any specific experience resurrecting a car in this condition but I can offer general pointers. Did you smell plastic burning or melting when the over-voltage occurred? That would be a bad sign and wiring damage is likely. The resurrection becomes a lot harder if cables/bundles have to be assessed and replaced. It is possible the over-voltage caused fuses and relays to be damaged. I would hand check every fuse with a DMM/continuity test. I would bench test every relay. Or just replace each and every one. Check or replace - just depends on if you have more money or more time. After you've established that electricity can flow to downstream components, the next likely damaged component is/are the computers. I'm not sure if there's a business that can bench test them out of the car - if you find one - you may want to send them each module. When you find one dead - you'll have to replace it and then move on to the next module. An interim goal might be to get the module that directly connects/sends info to the OBDII connector (do they have that in the UK?). Then once that's working you can use other diagnostic tools (OBDII reader, Durametric) to get other modules assessed.

For phone calls and listening to Amazon Music on my Android in my 2005 C2S, I use the iSimple Tranzit BLU FM Transmitter and Bluetooth Adapter. One has to tie it into power and the antenna but that wasn't too hard of a job, just tedious. I'm not sure it's still available but there are even more options available today (for "wireless" FM transmitters/Bluetooth connectivity).

It is normal to see rubber bushings deteriorate with time and usage. The deterioration accelerates in high stress areas. Normally, bushing "separation" would lead to "clunking" sounds but even if those are absent, if it were me, I'd plan to replace the parts "next time I was in there" (perhaps when doing other maintenance items). I replaced a lot of the "harder to get to" parts even though they showed minimal issues, when I switched to Ohlins coilovers. Rubber/stressed things just don't last forever.

Can the Porsche (PASM) shocks be rebuilt by Bilstein or others? Is there a reference to how that rebuild process gets initiated?

As far as I know, the Primary AOS on the 997.1 3.8 is not serviceable by draining. Have you checked your crankcase vacuum? Either with a manometer or the oil filler cap removal resistance method? How old is the AOS? If not original, is it genuine Porsche? Any squealing, screeching noises? Do you park on an incline? Is the smoke persistent or only at start up?

Well, at least not charging "flat rate" or "book rate". 😉

I'm not sure. I've heard it's best to stick with a Porsche branded pump (rather than even the OEM Pierburg).

Thanks for sharing. That's quite a failure mode. Never heard of the prop shaft just snapping like that "out of the blue". You lucked out that the impeller didn't wobble into the block (and shed plastic) while it slowed down. I replaced mine about 4 years ago. The replacement period consensus I gathered was to replace at about 40000 miles. Definitely replace the thermostat at the same time. And other things, as you mention. Happy motoring.

What do you think the sludge is composed of?

When you say "swapped" coil/plug - do you mean for another position? If so, it will be interesting to see if the code follows it. Then you'll know. How old is the gasoline in it? Even couple-month-old gas can be "flat". And cause misfires. Generally though, not at a single position (unless of course it was on the "edge"). I think there's consensus to change the plugs around 40k miles or 4 years, whichever comes first. It's my understanding the 4 years is motivated by trying to avoid damage to the aluminum head because the plug threads adhere themselves to the head threads. If you're a DIY-er, changing the plugs is probably about a 6 of 10 difficulty. Don't need a lot of fancy tools. I've done mine. Your hands will be sore the next day. Two or three of the positions are especially onerous. Maybe a 2-4 hour job. I didn't even remove the mufflers. My car was up on QuickJacks. You'll save a bunch of that $1400. Especially if you already have the new style coils.

Do you think a lab could distinguish between the chain guide ramp material and Techroned-off "carbon deposit" material? If it were Techroned-off carbon deposits, would you be more concerned with allowing the carbon to build by not Techron-ing versus getting the slug of carbon every oil change? FWIW, I use a Top Tier gasoline at least 80% of the time...

I had my oil tested and nothing remarkable seen there. Coincidentally, a fellow Rennlister had an issue similar to mine but on a BMW. The current working theory is that it was carbon that had been broken loose because of the fuel system cleaners we'd both used prior to the oil change. Found fine black powder in oil filter medium - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Found fine black powder in oil filter medium - Changed my oil today. 2005 C2S with about 80000 miles. Been using DT40 for a few years. About 3300 miles (1.5 years; car was laid up about a year) on this oil change. Opened the oil filter case to inspect the oil filter medium. Saw a lot of fine...

Thanks Loren. The grommet is holding the sensor ok in its natural position. I check it quite often since my fan being on really gets my attention. I was thinking of 1) reversing the sensor position or 2) insulating the sensor tip. All in the hope of delaying the fan start to its design value. Is it possible another temp sender (oil, coolant?) is broken that is part of the purge fan control logic?

2005 C2S about 80000 miles What are the possible causes for the engine compartment purge fan to come on early? The old sensor exhibited the same thing. The new sensor is about a month old. I was checking the cam deviations with my Durametric and I noticed the fan come on only after about 5-10 minutes after the engine had started up (from a true cold start). The ambient temperature was about 55 degF. The Durametric showed the engine compartment temperature about 41-44 degC (much cooler than I thought was supposed to kick on the fan).

Thanks John. After warm-up: Camshaft deviation, bank 1 -0.9844 Camshaft deviation, bank 2 -0.4219 Rock steady, no jumping around at idle nor 2700 RPM. What do you think?

If it is, is it more troubling if it seemingly cropped up over the span of a single oil change interval? Am I on a "deadline" now? Are the chain ramp replacements considered a DIY job without removing the engine? Special tools needed? Other considerations?

I used a wash bottle with lacquer thinner and washed about 1/2 the medium's debris into a clean glass container. Decanted it once. Washed it again. Decanted it. Let the solvent evaporate a little bit and scooped a couple of screwdriver tip's worth onto a clean paper towel. It was still a little wet as you can see by the staining on the paper towel. Picture is attached. The clumps are easily pulverized. The color is brown-reddish-brown. PS: I think I'll get the Durametric out and measure the cam (angle) deviations...

Changed my oil today. 2005 C2S with about 80000 miles. Been using DT40 for a few years. About 3300 miles (1.5 years; car was laid up about a year) on this oil change. Opened the oil filter case to inspect the oil filter medium. Saw a lot of fine black (oil soaked, of course) powder in the creases of the filter medium. Non-ferrous (wouldn't stick to magnet, other than due to oil acting as "adhesive"). More than I've seen in the past. I've attached two pics here. What do you think? Source? Cause for alarm? Needs immediate diagnosis/correction?

Yes. I've replaced mine twice in the four years I've owned mine. Same symptoms as you. Easy R&R.

Excessive crankcase vacuum is definitely a symptom of the AOS having failed. A couple of years ago, I made a homebrew manometer and captured the "inches of water" value. After the AOS failed, but I hadn't yet fully confirmed it was the AOS, I hooked up the manometer, and lickety-split, every inch of that water got sucked into the crankcase. I should have guessed that would happen but I stood there dumbfounded for a second then shut 'er down. Drained the oil. Replaced the AOS. Warmed up the car. Drained the oil again. A $120 for the extra oil change. Ugh.

I'm not sure this will help... When I had the original side markers, I never had an issue with sporadic "check" messages. For a couple years I've had LED replacements and about once a quarter I get a check message (on the right side) after hitting a rough patch of road. It has always resolved itself (I never had to fiddle with the fixture).