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ttocs

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ttocs last won the day on April 4 2018

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About ttocs

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    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    IL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 Porsche Boxster
    2016 Dodge Caravan
  • Future cars
    Happy for now . . .
  • Former cars
    2013 Ford Focus ST<br />
    2011 Harley-Davidson Ultra Ltd<br />
    1970 Buick GS 455 Convertible<br />
    1967 Chrysler Newport hardtop<br />
    1965 Oldsmobile Jetstar 88 sedan

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  1. On a front wheel drive vehicle they often will "click" on left/right turns which stress the joint. Does your noise occur while the car is turning only left, or right, or both? What is the "frequency" of the sound, how many times per period of time? or once per tire revolution? Check the parking brake. My car was sitting most of the year previous to my purchasing it and the brake drums had some surface rust which caused a loud click sound and felt like a hammer was hitting the wheel a couple times per tire rotation if I pulled the parking brake lever. So I wonder if the shoes might be close enough to the drums such that under high stress and flexing of the suspension that they might be making contact with some rust like what happened with my car. There's also a dust shield that might be touching some wheel hub parts, but I would think that would sound and feel more subtle, less sudden.
  2. First thing that comes to mind is CV joints, along with worn bushings causing extra flexing.
  3. Is the steering wheel positioned exactly in its center, with wheels pointed straight? If it's more than a few degrees left or right, then you will need to put a fairly large amount of heft into trying to "clear" the locking mechanism in relation to the key. I ALWAYS tell parking valets to make sure the wheel is centered prior to removing the key. Mine is especially difficult to get free once it is stuck.
  4. Try WKD-996-021-00, I believe this covers 4 and non 4.
  5. . . . . and obviously the car must be level during the trans fill process. When you say you used a compatible fluid, which one? I had a bad experience when a indy service garage, experienced with Porsche, used the wrong fluid. I knew right away and did 3 fluid changes in several weeks myself, by the book. Pentosin fluid. It's amber in color, not red. The red Pentosin is for other brands of German cars.
  6. Brake flush, diff oil. Have the water pump looked at. On 986's, the water pump is popularly considered a maintenance item about every 5 years I think, not sure if yours would be different. And please make sure they know the right way to fill an empty cooling system if it's not a Porsche dealer. Some say they know, but a friend only got 20 minutes away from the service shop before his cooling system started puking due to trapped air. They didn't use an Airlift and didn't "burp" it either.
  7. PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
  8. My guess is the glued linkage is not quite right. I replaced mine about a year ago. The part is around $55.
  9. I have a 2004 Boxster with just 4 speakers, 2 in the dash and the 2 door woofers. I replaced the dash speakers with: Alpine Type-S Series 4" Coaxial Speakers - SPS-410. The stock dash speakers are 2-way, and so are the Alpines but are coaxial. Go to Youtube and search for Porsche Boxster Speaker Replacement and look for the one published in 2009. This one shows how to use the stock "baskets" so you retain the stock appearance but are able to mount the new speakers. It's a real DIY involving cutting the old speaker apart but keeping the stock speaker wire connector, and it's important to use speakers which are shallow enough. The new speaker will also need to be glued to the stock plastic speaker basket, I used silicone caulk. I kept the door woofers. The system sounds much better even at highway speeds with the top down.
  10. Did you try the reset as described in post #2 from Loren? Does the passenger window work? Will it lower slightly upon opening the door? This is to diagnose the fuse. If passenger window operates - at all - then while both doors are closed try lowering the convertible top, wait, then raise it, see if one or both windows move to the closed position.
  11. I had an Audi that developed random stalls. Ran perfectly, and just before the warranty ran out the dealer said there was an interior oil leak in the engine ??? They replaced the heads and bingo, random stalls. I traded the car before the warranty ran out. A few weeks later I spoke with the tech (in the parts dept) that worked on my car for most of the last two years, something the dealer wouldn't let me do - speak to the tech, and he said the new sensors they installed had a different size vacuum fitting and the vacuum hoses no longer fit well enough so they would used clamps to make them fit tight. Long way of saying check the vacuum.
  12. Hmmmmm, perplexing indeed. Sorry you're having this difficulty.
  13. Knowing a bit about electronics in general, I would say that if there's a Aux Battery and it's got a problem then it's going to continue to be a problem while connected to the system. But I will defer to those gurus with the noggin voodoo (vast knowledge).
  14. Have you checked the main and aux car batteries for proper voltage? An under-volt battery can cause weird things to happen. On my car it triggered Limp Mode which only allowed the trans to shift up to third gear.
  15. I know, I have a different car from possibly a different era, but . . . Sometimes when the car won't respond to the buttons on the key - even after starting the car - it takes using the key in the door lock to make it better. This has only happened a couple times since owning the car for four years. I was fearful of needing to get the system reprogrammed, but nope, just needed to manually lock and unlock the car. go figure
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