Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Is the steering wheel positioned exactly in its center, with wheels pointed straight? If it's more than a few degrees left or right, then you will need to put a fairly large amount of heft into trying to "clear" the locking mechanism in relation to the key. I ALWAYS tell parking valets to make sure the wheel is centered prior to removing the key. Mine is especially difficult to get free once it is stuck.
ttocs replied to PauliesPorsche's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Try WKD-996-021-00, I believe this covers 4 and non 4.
. . . . and obviously the car must be level during the trans fill process. When you say you used a compatible fluid, which one? I had a bad experience when a indy service garage, experienced with Porsche, used the wrong fluid. I knew right away and did 3 fluid changes in several weeks myself, by the book. Pentosin fluid. It's amber in color, not red. The red Pentosin is for other brands of German cars.
Brake flush, diff oil. Have the water pump looked at. On 986's, the water pump is popularly considered a maintenance item about every 5 years I think, not sure if yours would be different. And please make sure they know the right way to fill an empty cooling system if it's not a Porsche dealer. Some say they know, but a friend only got 20 minutes away from the service shop before his cooling system started puking due to trapped air. They didn't use an Airlift and didn't "burp" it either.
ttocs replied to mjposner's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
ttocs replied to Budski's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)My guess is the glued linkage is not quite right. I replaced mine about a year ago. The part is around $55.
I have a 2004 Boxster with just 4 speakers, 2 in the dash and the 2 door woofers. I replaced the dash speakers with: Alpine Type-S Series 4" Coaxial Speakers - SPS-410. The stock dash speakers are 2-way, and so are the Alpines but are coaxial. Go to Youtube and search for Porsche Boxster Speaker Replacement and look for the one published in 2009. This one shows how to use the stock "baskets" so you retain the stock appearance but are able to mount the new speakers. It's a real DIY involving cutting the old speaker apart but keeping the stock speaker wire connector, and it's important to use speakers which are shallow enough. The new speaker will also need to be glued to the stock plastic speaker basket, I used silicone caulk. I kept the door woofers. The system sounds much better even at highway speeds with the top down.
Did you try the reset as described in post #2 from Loren? Does the passenger window work? Will it lower slightly upon opening the door? This is to diagnose the fuse. If passenger window operates - at all - then while both doors are closed try lowering the convertible top, wait, then raise it, see if one or both windows move to the closed position.
I had an Audi that developed random stalls. Ran perfectly, and just before the warranty ran out the dealer said there was an interior oil leak in the engine ??? They replaced the heads and bingo, random stalls. I traded the car before the warranty ran out. A few weeks later I spoke with the tech (in the parts dept) that worked on my car for most of the last two years, something the dealer wouldn't let me do - speak to the tech, and he said the new sensors they installed had a different size vacuum fitting and the vacuum hoses no longer fit well enough so they would used clamps to make them fit tight. Long way of saying check the vacuum.
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9YA (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Hmmmmm, perplexing indeed. Sorry you're having this difficulty.
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9YA (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Knowing a bit about electronics in general, I would say that if there's a Aux Battery and it's got a problem then it's going to continue to be a problem while connected to the system. But I will defer to those gurus with the noggin voodoo (vast knowledge).
Have you checked the main and aux car batteries for proper voltage? An under-volt battery can cause weird things to happen. On my car it triggered Limp Mode which only allowed the trans to shift up to third gear.
I know, I have a different car from possibly a different era, but . . . Sometimes when the car won't respond to the buttons on the key - even after starting the car - it takes using the key in the door lock to make it better. This has only happened a couple times since owning the car for four years. I was fearful of needing to get the system reprogrammed, but nope, just needed to manually lock and unlock the car. go figure
The Tiptronic, while driving in 5th, can shift to 4th in an instant with a little bit of throttle. If there was no change in throttle and driving on level road then yes, there's a problem. At a low enough speed, but just enough to be in 5th, any tiny increase in throttle will result in a downshift.