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Everything posted by ttocs

  1. I chose to stick with Mobile1 0-40. Never had any issue, never used more than 1/2 liter between changes. Only sent one sample in for testing which showed that the oil was good for a lot more miles/time. I never got around to trying the Joe Gibbs DT40, but it's the only other one I would be willing to try.
  2. . . . . also consider the potential for liability for the car owner IF in an accident there are deflated tires or tires which measure too low or high in inflation and there is no TPMS or the system has been deactivated, the car owner's insurance company can question the circumstances and maybe not pay. This can also be the case when using summer rated tires in temperatures stated to be too low by the tire manufacturer - and yes, on this one I checked. Liability is a very powerful word.
  3. I had a high pitched hum / or low pitched whine, depends on how these are defined, and it turned out to be the gas cap. Now this is on the passenger side, but just tossing that out there. Try loosening the gas cap and see if anything changes. Otherwise, I'd suspect a vacuum connection somewhere.
  4. 2. Yes. The under-volt was in the high 11 volt range when the problem occurred. Replacing the battery solved the issue once Porsche cleared the Limp Mode. I sold the car late last year after over 4 years of enjoyment with that new battery.
  5. Have you attempted to "force" the steering wheel to one side or the other of the lock-stop? If there's any "off center" of the steering wheel it will be very difficult to unlock. It's either this simple, or gonna be very difficult. I always tell valets to make sure steering wheel is straight ahead when they park the car.
  6. On a front wheel drive vehicle they often will "click" on left/right turns which stress the joint. Does your noise occur while the car is turning only left, or right, or both? What is the "frequency" of the sound, how many times per period of time? or once per tire revolution? Check the parking brake. My car was sitting most of the year previous to my purchasing it and the brake drums had some surface rust which caused a loud click sound and felt like a hammer was hitting the wheel a couple times per tire rotation if I pulled the parking brake lever. So I wonder if the shoes might be close enough to the drums such that under high stress and flexing of the suspension that they might be making contact with some rust like what happened with my car. There's also a dust shield that might be touching some wheel hub parts, but I would think that would sound and feel more subtle, less sudden.
  7. First thing that comes to mind is CV joints, along with worn bushings causing extra flexing.
  8. Is the steering wheel positioned exactly in its center, with wheels pointed straight? If it's more than a few degrees left or right, then you will need to put a fairly large amount of heft into trying to "clear" the locking mechanism in relation to the key. I ALWAYS tell parking valets to make sure the wheel is centered prior to removing the key. Mine is especially difficult to get free once it is stuck.
  9. Try WKD-996-021-00, I believe this covers 4 and non 4.
  10. . . . . and obviously the car must be level during the trans fill process. When you say you used a compatible fluid, which one? I had a bad experience when a indy service garage, experienced with Porsche, used the wrong fluid. I knew right away and did 3 fluid changes in several weeks myself, by the book. Pentosin fluid. It's amber in color, not red. The red Pentosin is for other brands of German cars.
  11. Brake flush, diff oil. Have the water pump looked at. On 986's, the water pump is popularly considered a maintenance item about every 5 years I think, not sure if yours would be different. And please make sure they know the right way to fill an empty cooling system if it's not a Porsche dealer. Some say they know, but a friend only got 20 minutes away from the service shop before his cooling system started puking due to trapped air. They didn't use an Airlift and didn't "burp" it either.
  12. PPI at Porsche dealer. Ask for LN serial number, LN can confirm when it was purchased. Also ask for old bearing, I saved mine.
  13. My guess is the glued linkage is not quite right. I replaced mine about a year ago. The part is around $55.
  14. I have a 2004 Boxster with just 4 speakers, 2 in the dash and the 2 door woofers. I replaced the dash speakers with: Alpine Type-S Series 4" Coaxial Speakers - SPS-410. The stock dash speakers are 2-way, and so are the Alpines but are coaxial. Go to Youtube and search for Porsche Boxster Speaker Replacement and look for the one published in 2009. This one shows how to use the stock "baskets" so you retain the stock appearance but are able to mount the new speakers. It's a real DIY involving cutting the old speaker apart but keeping the stock speaker wire connector, and it's important to use speakers which are shallow enough. The new speaker will also need to be glued to the stock plastic speaker basket, I used silicone caulk. I kept the door woofers. The system sounds much better even at highway speeds with the top down.
  15. Did you try the reset as described in post #2 from Loren? Does the passenger window work? Will it lower slightly upon opening the door? This is to diagnose the fuse. If passenger window operates - at all - then while both doors are closed try lowering the convertible top, wait, then raise it, see if one or both windows move to the closed position.
  16. I had an Audi that developed random stalls. Ran perfectly, and just before the warranty ran out the dealer said there was an interior oil leak in the engine ??? They replaced the heads and bingo, random stalls. I traded the car before the warranty ran out. A few weeks later I spoke with the tech (in the parts dept) that worked on my car for most of the last two years, something the dealer wouldn't let me do - speak to the tech, and he said the new sensors they installed had a different size vacuum fitting and the vacuum hoses no longer fit well enough so they would used clamps to make them fit tight. Long way of saying check the vacuum.
  17. Hmmmmm, perplexing indeed. Sorry you're having this difficulty.
  18. Knowing a bit about electronics in general, I would say that if there's a Aux Battery and it's got a problem then it's going to continue to be a problem while connected to the system. But I will defer to those gurus with the noggin voodoo (vast knowledge).
  19. Have you checked the main and aux car batteries for proper voltage? An under-volt battery can cause weird things to happen. On my car it triggered Limp Mode which only allowed the trans to shift up to third gear.
  20. I know, I have a different car from possibly a different era, but . . . Sometimes when the car won't respond to the buttons on the key - even after starting the car - it takes using the key in the door lock to make it better. This has only happened a couple times since owning the car for four years. I was fearful of needing to get the system reprogrammed, but nope, just needed to manually lock and unlock the car. go figure
  21. Off topic, and speaking of hand controls, it was very impressive to watch Alex Zanardi drive in the Rolex 24 last weekend. Amazing!
  22. The Tiptronic, while driving in 5th, can shift to 4th in an instant with a little bit of throttle. If there was no change in throttle and driving on level road then yes, there's a problem. At a low enough speed, but just enough to be in 5th, any tiny increase in throttle will result in a downshift.
  23. Tiptronic??? I presume? How many years and kilometers on the fluid? Has the fluid "ever" been changed? When you are stopped, in manual mode, if you change from 2nd to 1st does the trans shift "bang" hard into 1st? or really smooth?
  24. Ahhh, I see. Well, 1 lift is certainly quicker than 2.
  25. I just gotta say, if you're only lifting one corner "quickly", jacking at the proper liftpoint and putting a stand under the car elsewhere for safety seems like the way to go if you only need the corner up for a few minutes. But as soon as two jacking points are needed and more time under the car, safety is jeopardized if the stands are not able to restrict lateral movement. It's the possible/likely sliding off of the first stand while jacking at the second point that's scary. I know people do it all the time, I tried it as well the first time I wanted to lift the front of the car, but it's not stable unless the car and stand(s) are "locked" together is such a way as to minimize lateral movement. And, rolling the jack under the car "blind" is fraught with possible nastiness. Gotta watch out for coolant lines. There are modifications some have made to jackstand heads by adding a "pin" that engages the liftpoint hole on our cars. I considered this, but when the cost/time analysis plus the wear and tear of less-approved undercarriage jacking points were added together in my head, the $290 I spent (shipped) on the Liftbars was well worth it (the cost is more now, still worth it). There are nifty jackstands available that the floorjack lifts directly. Granted they cost more than Liftbars, but if only raising one or two corners of the car they are probably the quickest way to do it. As soon as you get to the height you need, slip in the lock pin and you're done. Finally, I use the Liftbars even when just cleaning the wheels because to me they're quick to use, and I only need to jack once per side.
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