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Hello all, I've been slowly replacing my Boxster's roof sensors, as I've been having intermittent problems with the roof not opening and closing. I just replaced the one under the roof opening clip. I should get into the habit of documenting how things fit together so I don't have issues like this, but does anyone have an idea on how the light assembly stays in place? I can't see any pressure clips or fittings. Any easy or clear instruction from anyone would help. The lights just dangling out of it's placement opening. [Sigh] Thanks.
Thanks to all who answered. I found someone on reddit who had the solution to the EXACT same problem with his 2000 Boxster. He solved it by buying this kit from Amazon for $3.95! Here's the link to the reddit blog: https://www.reddit.com/r/Porsche/comments/1eq7aa/how_to_fix_broken_986_lock_cylinder_for_20/ Here's the link to the Amazon part: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT1GUNK/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock. So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening, the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement in the door latch. And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll have to take the door apart to find out, I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it. Thanks1
Had the same issue with my 1999 which also had a new tank. After doing a pressure test on the cap, found it was defective which was the reason for the steam discharge. Bleeding the tank properly took me about 8 - 10 hours. After replacing the cap, and properly bleeding the system my problem was solved.
Yes, thanks. I bought the top microswitch [where the roof hook locks into] as well as the parking brake switch a couple of months back from Pelican, but haven't gotten to them yet. I have lots of roof related projects including a new Robbins top with glass to replace the present cloth top [ with a ripped plastic window] sitting in the garage. Did you need to take the driver's seat out to get to remove the center console? There's instructions in the "101 Projects" book, although it isn't specific to replacing the switch.
Hello, John: I hope you get some answers, because I have the same top issue with my 1999. No the top light doesn't come on. Unlike your car my parking brake light isn't on. I've had to pull the push-rods off the lid and frame in order to close the roof. It's a real P.I.T.A. to re-align the transmissions and put them back on. Sorry I could not have been more of a help!
well, I decided to put the pushrods back on, since I'll be putting a new Robbins roof on the car, and I'll need to maneuver the roof up and down to do this. I followed Mike's directions, drill, cables, sync trans levers, measured, and with difficulty put the rods onto their respective balls. I had of course needed to lift the roof compartment lid to do all this, but with enough frustration hey I did it! Or did I? I turned on the car to test and immediately got the roof is open idiot light (yeah the roof compartment lid is open, but the roof is closed, with the lever pulled down and hook clear, so) I pushed the rocker switch. Nothing. Pushed in both directions, Nothing. So now I have the roof closed, but the roof compartment lid partially open. I would hate to pull thing apart again. I really would like a working convertible roof. Manually opening and closing it was so, well, unworthy of this car. I realize I'm going to get a lot of advice about micro switches, and the parking brake (no dash light indicator) but ANY advice would be great. Would love to finish before first snow! Thanks
This is kind of strange because I don't think what I did yesterday has anything to do with the problem I experienced today. Yesterday, I did some routine maintenance on my 1999 Boxster. I changed the air filter. Added some hydraulic fluid [Pentosin CHF 11S], And tried to change the drive belt, but couldn't budge the nut on the tension wheel, so I left it for another day. This morning I got in to the car only to find that my gas pedal was frozen. I couldn't push down on it. If I moved it a certain way [or my foot on the pedal] I could just push it down but the motion wasn't smooth, and there wasn't any resistance. Either the cable was stuck, or their was too much pressure/resistance to move it. Driving the car was impossible. I opened everything up to retrace what I've done, but couldn't figure that anything I did would affect the pedal. I went over the parts diagram, went to Bentley, started to research on line but their isn't enough on the subject, pedal mechanism, pedal to engine, how it works, etc. to even start to put scenarios together. Also I can't find enough on even replacing the pedal [with another Porsche pedal, not a fancy Rennline]. Clutch and shifts are fine. If anyone has run into this situation please help! I'm stumped and have no idea where to begin! Thanks!
Hi, I would check the push rods. Sounds like it could be a loose or broken ball/socket, a damaged spring in the roof lid compartment rods, or a general mis-alignment of the whole roof open and close process. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Hmmm, I remember that usually the fans come on after 10 minutes of idling, no matter what the temperature is. There really is no discernable drop in coolant level, nor excess coolant anywhere. I would think that if something so faulty as a water pump or fan issue that the check engine light would come on or some DTC's codes would come up. Neither is the case with this. I've been on other forums and of course going through the manuals. Would a stuck or broken thermostat cause issues like these? If it cools down here I'll start to take the car apart, i.e. water pump, belt condition, etc. We're having some 100 +/- days here in PA, so working in the driveway is really unbearable. Thanks for all the help! Much appreciated!
Here's what I did this morning. I opened the trunk, took off the bleeder cover, added some more coolant to top it to proper measure, and turned on the car. Ran it, checked the temperature, coolant level, bleeder valve, cap. After 15 minutes everything OK, checked around and under car for leakage, especially around the overflow tube. Nothing. After 30 minutes, I saw the needle just go over 180, at that point turned off the car. No leakage, boil-over, etc. HOWEVER The fans never went on. Soooo???
Thanks Wizard, I'll get back to you on the water pump. Sorry I can't remember a.about the fans. Could all this be a air pocket and/or pressure issue. Bleeder or faulty cap? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk