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Philip Adler

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Everything posted by Philip Adler

  1. Hello all, I've been slowly replacing my Boxster's roof sensors, as I've been having intermittent problems with the roof not opening and closing. I just replaced the one under the roof opening clip. I should get into the habit of documenting how things fit together so I don't have issues like this, but does anyone have an idea on how the light assembly stays in place? I can't see any pressure clips or fittings. Any easy or clear instruction from anyone would help. The lights just dangling out of it's placement opening. [Sigh] Thanks.
  2. Thanks to all who answered. I found someone on reddit who had the solution to the EXACT same problem with his 2000 Boxster. He solved it by buying this kit from Amazon for $3.95! Here's the link to the reddit blog: https://www.reddit.com/r/Porsche/comments/1eq7aa/how_to_fix_broken_986_lock_cylinder_for_20/ Here's the link to the Amazon part: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT1GUNK/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
  3. Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock. So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening, the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement in the door latch. And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll have to take the door apart to find out, I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it. Thanks1
  4. Had the same issue with my 1999 which also had a new tank. After doing a pressure test on the cap, found it was defective which was the reason for the steam discharge. Bleeding the tank properly took me about 8 - 10 hours. After replacing the cap, and properly bleeding the system my problem was solved.
  5. Hello, Try Pelican Parts [pelicanparts.com] 986-632-051-00-OEM $19.95
  6. Yes, thanks. I bought the top microswitch [where the roof hook locks into] as well as the parking brake switch a couple of months back from Pelican, but haven't gotten to them yet. I have lots of roof related projects including a new Robbins top with glass to replace the present cloth top [ with a ripped plastic window] sitting in the garage. Did you need to take the driver's seat out to get to remove the center console? There's instructions in the "101 Projects" book, although it isn't specific to replacing the switch.
  7. Hello, John: I hope you get some answers, because I have the same top issue with my 1999. No the top light doesn't come on. Unlike your car my parking brake light isn't on. I've had to pull the push-rods off the lid and frame in order to close the roof. It's a real P.I.T.A. to re-align the transmissions and put them back on. Sorry I could not have been more of a help!
  8. well, I decided to put the pushrods back on, since I'll be putting a new Robbins roof on the car, and I'll need to maneuver the roof up and down to do this. I followed Mike's directions, drill, cables, sync trans levers, measured, and with difficulty put the rods onto their respective balls. I had of course needed to lift the roof compartment lid to do all this, but with enough frustration hey I did it! Or did I? I turned on the car to test and immediately got the roof is open idiot light (yeah the roof compartment lid is open, but the roof is closed, with the lever pulled down and hook clear, so) I pushed the rocker switch. Nothing. Pushed in both directions, Nothing. So now I have the roof closed, but the roof compartment lid partially open. I would hate to pull thing apart again. I really would like a working convertible roof. Manually opening and closing it was so, well, unworthy of this car. I realize I'm going to get a lot of advice about micro switches, and the parking brake (no dash light indicator) but ANY advice would be great. Would love to finish before first snow! Thanks
  9. Loren, can't push the pedal down at all. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks JFP, I'll check it out, and get back to you. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
  11. This is kind of strange because I don't think what I did yesterday has anything to do with the problem I experienced today. Yesterday, I did some routine maintenance on my 1999 Boxster. I changed the air filter. Added some hydraulic fluid [Pentosin CHF 11S], And tried to change the drive belt, but couldn't budge the nut on the tension wheel, so I left it for another day. This morning I got in to the car only to find that my gas pedal was frozen. I couldn't push down on it. If I moved it a certain way [or my foot on the pedal] I could just push it down but the motion wasn't smooth, and there wasn't any resistance. Either the cable was stuck, or their was too much pressure/resistance to move it. Driving the car was impossible. I opened everything up to retrace what I've done, but couldn't figure that anything I did would affect the pedal. I went over the parts diagram, went to Bentley, started to research on line but their isn't enough on the subject, pedal mechanism, pedal to engine, how it works, etc. to even start to put scenarios together. Also I can't find enough on even replacing the pedal [with another Porsche pedal, not a fancy Rennline]. Clutch and shifts are fine. If anyone has run into this situation please help! I'm stumped and have no idea where to begin! Thanks!
  12. Hi, I would check the push rods. Sounds like it could be a loose or broken ball/socket, a damaged spring in the roof lid compartment rods, or a general mis-alignment of the whole roof open and close process. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
  13. Hmmm, I remember that usually the fans come on after 10 minutes of idling, no matter what the temperature is. There really is no discernable drop in coolant level, nor excess coolant anywhere. I would think that if something so faulty as a water pump or fan issue that the check engine light would come on or some DTC's codes would come up. Neither is the case with this. I've been on other forums and of course going through the manuals. Would a stuck or broken thermostat cause issues like these? If it cools down here I'll start to take the car apart, i.e. water pump, belt condition, etc. We're having some 100 +/- days here in PA, so working in the driveway is really unbearable. Thanks for all the help! Much appreciated!
  14. Here's what I did this morning. I opened the trunk, took off the bleeder cover, added some more coolant to top it to proper measure, and turned on the car. Ran it, checked the temperature, coolant level, bleeder valve, cap. After 15 minutes everything OK, checked around and under car for leakage, especially around the overflow tube. Nothing. After 30 minutes, I saw the needle just go over 180, at that point turned off the car. No leakage, boil-over, etc. HOWEVER The fans never went on. Soooo???
  15. Thanks Wizard, I'll get back to you on the water pump. Sorry I can't remember a.about the fans. Could all this be a air pocket and/or pressure issue. Bleeder or faulty cap? Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks for the quick replies . The coolant cap does have the 04 digits. It's the black Blau cap, Part 996-1106-447-04-M8 in the Pelican catalog. As for the water pump, I'll have to take the car apart to answer that. There is no coolant in the trunk. I went through that experience 2 years ago. Had to replace the reservoir. Still have the bruised knuckles. Failed to mentioned that after I filled the tank for the first incident above, I ran the engine for 30 minutes, without an issue.
  17. Well I was driving yesterday when the coolant light began to flash, temp hit 200, so I went home and filled the coolant, which was really low. When looking through the fill, there wasn't any coolant all the way down. I put in about 3 quarts [ capacity 2.5 gal.] which was a lot of loss. But There wasn't any leaking. [?] The level stayed steady at the 1/2 min-max mark. Driving today, about 10 miles back and forth, not only did the light come on but the temperature shot up. I pulled into the driveway just as it hit 250. No check engine light, no other diagnostic light, just the flashing coolant light. [meter/check codes?] When I got out of the car, I could hear a loud whine from the trunk. Opened it to find that the coolant cap was venting hot coolant steam, and of course the loud and unnerving hissing-whine, from the cap. After a few moments it stopped. Waited till it all cooled down and slowly and carefully removed the cap. Same issue as above. No visible coolant in fill. I again put about 2 quarts, level hit between min-max. No leaks under car, coolant level hold steady. The mix is 1 gal. Porsche coolant [bought though Pelican], and 1 gal. distilled water. Shaken, not stirred to mix. Let sit. Yes, nice and pink when poured. The coolant tank is brand new, perhaps has a thousand miles on it. Cap came with the tank. Porsche, not OEM. Put on by a reputable shop which specializes in German cars. I screwed that cap down properly, real tight. No overflow. No leaks. I'm loosing coolant when driving, only. Any ideas? Obviously I can't drive it. Next steps is to load it on a flatbed, and drop it off at the shop. {Poor Boxie} 😰 Thanks, as always!
  18. I'd like to know if anyone has purchased [and used] the 1997-2001 Porsche Boxster Service Manuals that are selling on Tradebit.. Here's an example: https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/279977450-1997-2001-porsche-boxster-986-workshop-service-repair
  19. Well the roof froze and I had to manually put the roof up. Unfortunately I had to pop off the push rods for the roof and the roof compartment cover. Found the culprit to be an easy [and cheap] fix. The sensor on the parking brake wasn't working. So I am attempting to put the push rods back on. Just as hard getting them on as taking them off. I popped the roof ones back on and attempted to close the roof. [MANUAL TEST] It almost got their and then stopped and wouldn't go any further. Something was definitely hitting something. I keep thinking that it has to do with transmission or the v flange on it, or position? Nothing else has been touched other than the rods and the ball ends. I think more than likely it's a positioning problem. Mike Focke had a procedure for "synching" the levers, but I'm not sure I know what he was talking about, novice that I am. If someone has a clear explanation, please help! Thanks
  20. If you're looking for parts do a search for Woody's Parts LLC. in TX. He deals in Porsche parts, at a fair price. I've dealt with him for finding replacement parts for my 1999 Boxster. You can find him on Facebook.
  21. Don't forget those side air intakes as well! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  22. Actually I meant ,0w40 (dam small phone buttons)! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  23. Is used in my Boxster, and recommended for all Porsche (European) Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  24. As I understand, Mobil 1, 0-10w is what Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  25. Mike, do you have a part # or a webpage for the mirror? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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