lewisweller

It is perfectly normal for the gauge to increase over the middle point when the AC is off. The thermostat will be partially closed at this time and when the temp reaches 89oC the thermostat is fully open and the fans kick in automatically and then the temp will drop to centre again. If the AC is on the gauge will pretty much stay at the centre whether you are stationary or when your driving and air flow is constant across the radiator then the temp will stay in the middle pretty much perfectly irrespective of the speed and engine load unless maybe towing heavy load at low road speed up a hill for a long time, for example. In my car I can sit at idle stationary for hours with the gauge in the middle if the fan is on and thats with outside temp of 40oC. Also note if you hook up your scan tool, you can view the exact temperature the Ecu is seeing, you should see the fan kick in at 87-89oC and bring the temp down to 85oC or lower. If the temp is going above 90oC then something is not working correctly!! The temp gauge on the dash is not very accurate I find.

When you consider the max summer ambient temps in Germany are fairly average compared to other regions it doesn't make sense your cayenne isn't able to stay cool. Are you still running hot Thomas? You shouldn't need this to keep the engine cool, but if for a style upgrade then it looks pretty cool.

After you changed the battery and cleared codes and gone for a nice driving cycle, recheck the codes and clear once more. Recheck codes again and then move onto fuses for TC left side fuse support check fuses 22, 23 47. Fuse support right check 7, 40, 57. the control module is under the passenger seat as well as the transmission controller module. Some time the get filled with fluid from the transfer case apparently!

Update, drove the car to the garage about 30km and up around speeds of 80km/h or higher the whole car is rumbling and shaking. Feels terrible, slow speeds is OK. It is road speed related not engine speed. I dropped the car off with a big list for them to sort out. I hope they pull a decent job out of there bag of hash ups. Also air suspension won't calibrate and the ride quality on the drive was terrible also, crashing and drove like a go kart with no suspension travel at all. Give me strength not to murder someone ......

Ha ha ha ha haaaa

Alu .... Sweet. The transmission gets a bad rep but really they are very reliable, the solenoids on the valve body being the real weak link. Porsche gave it a life time no maintenance schedule, I scoff at anything that claims life time, the manufacturers translation of life time is just to the end of their warranty period and not a day longer. Scandalous like the trump presidency, #Trump the Russian puppet lol.

That's a weak battery for sure assuming no loose or high resistance cables between battery and chassis ground in front of the driver seat . If you flip the drivers seat and test the battery when disconnected and the reading is the same then you ruled out cables problem and just buy a new battery.

Hell yeah, that's bad ***! Taking bets on how long the cardan shaft and rear differential will last lol.

Address your battery issue before believing any codes from a cayenne, thats rule number 1.

Holy guacamole Bob that's a list right off the bat. They didn't make a turbo S until late 2006 so I reckon someone stuck the S on. Anyhow that doesn't make a difference to the list of repairs. Are you mechanically minded? If not do you have deep pockets? I'm talking from a lot of personal experience, even working on it yourself will be costly for parts. The garages will soon rack up many thousands for simple works. Pelican have a lot of good diy guides and You Tube and this forum also are great resources. Do your homework! A lot of the jobs if not all are doable by yourself with basic tools. First item, plugs, buy 8 ngk BRK6EIX spark plugs which work great and will last 50k easy. Inspect all the coil packs very carefully, any cracks or bulges spells failure or pending failure, if you find any bad then change them all along with the Spark Plugs. Apart from removing the covers and needing to remove the torque arm bush it's pretty straight forward job. Special tools, Star sockets, 1/4" socket set, 1/2" socket set, torx bits set, triple square set. These tools along with basic tools will cover almost all jobs on the cayenne. Post cat o2 sensor is a bit tricky, I did change both precat lambda sensors which was not a difficult as so many people claim. Sensor malfunctions are not always in need of replacement, I've calibrated mine a few times after works which required them being removed or car raised for long periods. Calibration is possible with genuine Ross tech vagcom vcds (I use version 15.7.1) or of course Porsche PIWIS which you can't afford to buy. Duremetrics although being the best Porsche enthusiast scan tool does not have the calibration capability by all accounts, and don't even consider another code reader it won't be very helpful in this scenario. Battery is another diy with triple square bit required to remove the front seat bolts (new bolts in my opinion is not required). Verify the alternator is good by testing whilst engine is running, 13.7-14.2v is good. Any less mean maybe the alternator is weak or another issue is present. Battery under cranking to start should not Dip below 9 volts, 9.5-10v is just right. Battery at rest engine off all doors shut no loads on should read 12.6v or very close. Much less means the battery is either under changed or non serviceable. Buy from Interstate your battery and make sure you get the correct amps and CCA rated one. Good luck. And welcome to cayenne ownership.

Can't tell about the oil leak, but the noise is gone after changing the flex disc. The list of things they have cocked up is growing, after short test drive ...... 1. AC Gas is low, the evaporator under the passenger side dash is making a hell of a noise like a coffee percolator, I just replaced the AC filter today also and the smell is gone. Old filter was heavy with sand and dust. Because these garages don't know the four zone is 1050grams I bet they just put in around 750 which is for the two zone AC setup. 2. Front suspension is crashing and knocking on the left side which has new upper arm and new strut bush they fitted, so they obviously haven't tighten something up properly or something broke during the strip down or assembly process. 3. The right front indicator is intermittently working, loose connection for sure 4. Already mentioned the suspected engine type oil leak at bell housing and the transmission pan is wet! The fuel light was stuck on and the range stuck at 30km. I did a scan but no fault code. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and it cleared that fault. Whilst disconnecting the earth cable I noted it was warm! This I remember others have had faults related to the cable having high resistance over time. Maybe this causing other electrical gremlins like the check tail light and four wheel drive faulty? Will look into getting this cable changed. Monday the car goes back to the garage and the American guy Jonny said he will fix everything. Fingers crossed.

New flex disc installed this morning, wasn't the easiest job in the underground car park. Having to Jack up and lower and rock the car a bit forward or back to be able to get to the hard to reach bolts was a chore and it 40degrees here and 90% humidity. Also to note I haven't seen it mentioned in other diy that you do have to unbolt the centre bearing support and pull the shaft away from the transmission output in order to separate the inner spigot shaft which just sits 10mm or so inside the Propshaft. Once I did that the flex disc can just be squeezed out in the small gap. Here is the picture my son took for me, old one has three distinctive tears in the rubber which is weird they all look the same and only damage is on the transmission side? Haven't test drove yet as had to rush off to a birthday party. But I'm seriously not convinced this is the sole cause of all that vibration and noise. I hope I'm wrong. Also had a good look underneath and would you believe it, it looks like engine oil is leaking from the bell housing now. Unbelievable! If they managed to cock up the installation of a new crank shaft end seal and then put it back together and tested apparently and give back to me as "all good" I'm gonna be seriously pissed. I haven't paid them yet so later will be going for a full pressure wash underneath to see if fresh oil drips afterwards. I hope not, I'm at the end of my rope.

This sonax looks more of a rubber conditioner for non functional rubbers, not suitable for anti roll bar or other bushes. A silicon spray grease is better suited to suspension bushes. If you got a the cash then might as well change the regulator save going back there sometime in the future maybe. Also buy 2 new Rubber gaskets for the left and right side, they are pain to get seated properly and if you fail the car will stink of fuel. Nearly empty tank is easiest and someone to help hold pipes and stuff out the way make the job a lot easier.

Couple of things pop to mind, either the wire was broken and they put in another, or this is a work around for a non functioning climate control compressor on signal or to keep the AC compressor activated even when the engine load is high and the Ecu would normally switch the compressor off briefly to boost power output availability.

Yes both sides need to be opened for either fuel pump replacement. The squeak is the anti-roll bar bushes. What did you spray with?

Got the (Meyle made in Gernany) flex disc, it's not a genuine part as Porsche kindly made the cardan shaft and flex disc 1 complete part required to buy. Cheeky buggers. Anyhow this is the same part for BMW, Touareg and Audi Q7 carrying part number 7LO 521 403 which is same as Porsche part number 95543101000. Will fit it Friday morning. AC smells musty and is crap so, New AC filter will help a bit as I may be suffering the beast for a while before getting a buyer. Hope I don't fall in love with the ex. .........Snigger Snigger.

Maybe was air locked and low coolant after thermostat replacement! Let's hope this fixed it or the cost might escalate significantly. Fingers crossed for you my friend.

Vagcom can do it, when I replaced the upper control arm I had the same issue. You need to calibrate the positions height again. I'm not sure if the duremetrics can do it? Someone will chime in I'm sure to clarify. Or its a trip to somewhere with PIWIS.

Very welcome Markplu. You have a few options 1. Change the cardan shaft which is quite expensive unless you go for a flee bay/amazon special which some have reported are OK! The main concern being whether its high speed balanced well and of course the quality of materials/longevity. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Cayenne-VW-Touareg-Driveshaft-02-10-Propeller-Shaft-Drive-Shaft-CA/162526278568 2. Is to use one of these retro fit kits which doesn't require removal of shaft and just replaces the bush but uses the existing bearing which may or may not be worn out so be careful about that. Some people have removed the shaft and replaced the bearing and the bush and keep the original shaft. https://www.amazon.com/Clamping-Bearing-Support-Porsche-Cayenne/dp/B0063GQP6S 3. Do the whole diy job with this kit which I think is brilliant and also includes the flex disc which is likely to be nearly worn out or already worn out by 200k. This also keeps your oem shaft and the balance of it and is the cheapest option aside from being very much hands on job.

Crawl under safely jack and Jack stand on the passenger side is the easiest way I found without a lift. Approximately in the middle centre of the car you will see this, first picture. Grab the shaft and shake it. If it is sloppy it's the bush worn out, really there should be no real movement. This is the most likely cause of thumping knocking banging noise under seat area. A vibration and noise with occasional click clunk can be the flex disc Rubber is split and sloppy. Second picture. This link will also help..... http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/29-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Bearing_Support_and_Flex_Disc_Replacement/29-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Bearing_Support_and_Flex_Disc_Replacement.htm

Found the problem after having a look underneath... flex disc Thomas we have a winner. The garage have not tighten the bolts properly and the flex disc Rubber is visibly damaged. Big Sigh.

Also one more thing to check is the coolant expansion tank cap! If the cap doesn't seal properly the coolant boiling point will be lower and this can lead to overheating also.

Got car back from having the body work and Polish done, it looks quite sweet. Unfortunately as soon as I drive it for a minute I notice the disturbing vibration, in the drive train it feels like. Before the work it was silkly smooth and the centre bearing and flex disc was in good condition I checked. A constant vibration through the whole car increasing with road speed NOT with engine speed, I also heard a clunk when I deaccelerated down a slope and around a bend, just as I went back on the accelerator and the bend straighten out I heard the clunk. I'm guessing cardan shaft or front Propshaft but not sure how that could be installed wrong when it was perfectly find before? Maybe they didn't tighten the centre bearing bush cradle properly? Transmission shifting good and no leaks so far. Engine starts and runs fine and sounds OK. Hesitation is unchanged by torque convertor seal replacement in case anybody was wondering if this was linked. Sent message to the garage and will take it back in tomorrow afternoon to have a look. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please do reply. Might save us some trouble shooting time. Thanks

Don't rule out either! Some water pumps was wearing out prematurely and decreased flow at idle is the effect. Also head gaskets can blow and push hot Gas into coolant without losing coolant. So have it tested anyway, it takes a few minutes. Aside from that the only other thing I can think of is slipping belt on water pump pulley or a blockage somewhere.

You need to have the coolant tested for head gaskets failure. If not head gaskets then water pump wear is the last thing possible I think.