Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
lewisweller
-
Posts
926 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
External Paint Colors
Downloads
Tutorials
Links Directory
Collections
Store
Everything posted by lewisweller
-
Look near the battery.
-
Well after some time to have a clear head and the realistic fact that finding someone to buy this potential (actually sitting) lemon would be almost impossible, I'm left with the only way forward being to scrape up the cash and have it fixed. I'm researching the diy but it seems too much without a lift and transmission jack. So when I can get around to doing this torque convertor seal repair is there anything else that would be a no brainer to get done whilst transmission is out maybe saving me from future hair pulling and tears? 1. Engine crankshaft end seal (flywheel off and check, new bolts) 2. Trans Filter and atf fluid is a obvious one even though it's just 15,000km since last time. 3. Flex disc. Anything else ... on the cheap side of sensible?
-
The now 10month old "new" hpfp I reckon is suspect. Its the only thing that makes sense. I would be pushing for that diagnosis confirmation and warranty replacement before it expires. A quick search reveals on this and other Porsche models tsb/campaign for defective hpfp and new pumps lasting just 4k in some cases then needing replacement.
-
The buzzing noise is likely the auxiliary water pump item 16, (not sure your model year or options though). It's mounted behind the left driver side Wheel arc cover. Fan on is the signal for the pump to run if calling for heat. It may be coolant temp dependant as well but not sure hence won't make noise if engine cold?
-
Yeah I'm totally gutted. I'm going to sell the car with full disclosure to new owner that they need to fix this and the injectors need cleaning.
-
My luck just couldn't get any worse. I noticed some atf fluid on the warehouse floor and thought it must be the front differential leaking since I just changed the fluid but no. The bell housing has two holes in it and the atf fluid is dripping out of one of the holes. A quick google search confirmed it's the seal and the transmission fluid is leaking out via the failed seal. The seal is 40dollars but the work involved is not a small feat in fact it looks a real b * tch to do. Especially without a lift. Has anyone DIY'd this repair? I'm total skint for car funds and this couldn't come at a worse time. Ahhhhhh
-
The front differential noise is better at 120kph but I notice it starts the noise at 125-130kph now, so it seems the fluid just shifted the resonance of the bearing noise to a different speed. Lol. Well the fluid that come out was clean and no metal so I will just live with the noise, no biggie.
-
Steering rack passenger side end Seal hydraulic seal and o-ring changed today couldn't really see why the seals installed last year would leak. I checked for wear and also tears and found nothing. All OK so far. Also changed front differential oil for redline heavy duty shock proof oil. We'll see if it quietens down the front differential bearing noise at 120kph. Rear camera won't pop open now! It's never ending ..........
-
This must be my brother from another mother. Some of his comment are just asking for a bashing lol. Note to self wiper arm puller required.
-
If the wiper motor was caput I would agree. To fix a small bush at a relatively cheap expense it's got to be worth a punt. I'll be sure to post my failure if thats the McGivering result. Not to mention I'm broke and saving up for professional injector cleaning next week. Lol another day in paradise....
-
Another one to add to the list of jobs... The passenger side wiper which has a double linkage and double shaft, one of the shaft metal bush is cracked and the wiper doesn't work correctly. The shaft spins inside the wiper arm and relies on the other part of the linkage and shaft to make the passenger wiper sweep in a fashion. So I'm looking and thinking about a cost effective Fix for the infrequent bit of rain we get here. Few ideas: 1. make another bush machine shop job 2. Make a home made bush out of aluminium can, seen this done before. 3. Drill and tap and then screw through the arm and into the shaft to lock all components together. Anyone had this issues and fixed it? Picture won't load up ....error 200????
-
You might consider replacing the fuel filter and possibly the regulator if when tested it doesn't hold 3 bar after ten mins of being switched off.
-
This must be the left pump then? So likely the rough rpm is causing the alternator to also deliver under voltage. Well see if the fuel pump replacement does the trick. Best of luck.
-
This is it. My mistake he didn't change the solenoid in fact. Amazing he only had 50k odd on the engine as well.
-
I'm checking now and for the life of me I can't find it. The last time I used it was when the Mobil 1 service centre in dubai did the 110,000km oil change on the Golf about two years ago. Maybe it's been discontinued? Alternatives are liqui moly which has the best reviews, for an add to old oil type flush.
-
Item number 3. It sits about 6" to the right and 2" lower of the throttle body.
-
Ummm this sounds familiar! The guy that changed the valve lifter also had the solenoid diagnosed first and replaced without success. If your near your oil service maybe worth doing the flush and oil change? Gamble vs possible engine tear down.....
-
First thing to do is check your alternator. The voltage is way too low and the code 532 is for low voltage. I would guess your alternator regulator is broke and also causing the idle problems as well. Charging voltage should be 13.7- 14.2 volts.
-
Just to keep this thread updated, will be taking my injectors to a local garage here in dubai to be professionally cleaned for about 140 dollars. Wish me luck this is the end to the story........
-
I found one garage who is going to charge 400dhs (about 85euro) to do it. They use ultrasonic cleaner and flow testing which seems to be the common practice. I asked if I can do a before and after check so as to verify the results, they said yes, so I will make a short video and post here after complete.
-
Yep will be sending them for cleaning. These are the same type Bosch injectors he is cleaning in this video.
- 23 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- steering rack leak
- rack leak
- (and 2 more)
-
Update after nearly a year..... Had some bad weather recently and a lot of muddy dirty roads and sand/grit about. I noticed the steering felt a tad tight then all was OK. A few days later thought I best do some checking and I can see the rack end seal area is a bit moist. The seal is leaking a bit for sure. I reckon some water and dirt got inside and damaged the seal. Lucky I bought a spare hydraulic seal and it should be an easy fix plus a couple hundred ml of fluid top up. Will add that to the long list of must get on with..... 1. Steering seal 2. Top mount front strut bush both sides. 3. Top wishbone arm driver side 4. Send injectors for professional cleaning 5. Fix this darn "check tail light warning" Ah to be a cayenne owner is a charm....
-
Wow can't believe how expensive a Bosch injector is new! Multiply by 8 equals .... Broke ***. Some I see selling are remanufactured. Erm had one bad experience of remanufactured part already (alternator) and not confident about another. Any one got any insight as to whether injectors online remanufactured are any good? Or maybe I should try and find a local place to do it here, and they can demonstrate the working injectors before I had over my cash.
-
I doubt it. The fact you put a new sensor in and the fault came back might suggest a wiring harness issue to that sensor? I stated the charging capacities as this is a common mistake by shops. Some more in depth diagnostic required I think.
-
How many grams did they put in? For four zone it 1050g For two zone it's 750g If they didn't charge it right either under or over it won't work properly. As me how I know when the German car specialist gagrage charged my four zone with 750g and it ran but not cold at all.
