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lewisweller
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Everything posted by lewisweller
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Some pictures would be great for understanding what you've done and other people not familiar will be like Wtf are talking about? hehe.
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My understanding of the system.......... The valve covers have a vacuum pressure which is balanced between bank 1+2 by a connecting pipe part 19 which has a small pipe which runs down to the back of engine T and then to each turbo vent oil collection point via those rigid metal pipes. Therefore the vacuum is sucking (venting) the oil vapors from the turbo (obviously very hot around the turbo lubrication creating vapors which need condensing back into a liquid) up into to valve covers. Then the AOS part 14 (which is mounted on the bank 2 front end 10cm diameter circle black cap) separates the oil and air allowing oil to drain into bank 2 head whilst the air is sucked past the 3 way check valve part 1 into the bank 2 turbo inlet during acceleration via pipes 2+6. This point at the AOS is where you could install a Catch Can as some turbo car owners have. So if this theory is correct the plastic bits won't actually go inside the turbo inlet or exhaust turbines but could get either logged in the oil collector and possibly block/restrict oil flow to the turbo, or block the venting vapors, or get blown/suvked up into the valve covers and floating around in the valve train. How much debris do you really think went in there?
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Lol no where near the AOS at the front he he. The turbo vent lines are rigid pipes and a total nightmare to remove. How big are these plastic bits and do you really think there is anything in there still? I don't know what to advise now. Some clown epoxy resin the broken T pipe on mine which I found when the indy dropped the engine for head gasket job. Replaced the T part which runs back to the pcv hoses for each valve cover bank connection on the 06 ctt. Out of interest when you vacuum what amount of vacuum was required to get anything to come out vapors etc, also when you pressurised it how much to get air flowing through? The reason I ask is I was searching for air leaks and found this T area covered in oil and dirt, I blew and sucked the pipe to see if any leaks but it actually felt blocked. I wonder what is the effects of a blocked turbo vent is and how it symptoms itself? Extra Oil consumption maybe?
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I'm assuming your referring to the pipe number 2 or check valve number 1 in the second pictured diagram? Which plugs into the back of the suction elbow number 19 in the first pictured diagram? There is no screen or media I know off in them pipes to catch debris. I suggest you don't start the engine and remove carefully pipe 19 (if your careful no bits should have reached the turbo yet, they should be stuck in the pipe bend) and clean everything thoroughly, you do not want plastic going through your turbo impellor! Have you seen the prices of parts............ spare a few hours and address the issue is my advice. Remove the air cleaner entire box for better access. Good luck.
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Yes that's dirty I think. A quick clean is 30 mins of your time and a quick throttle body adaption in your software. The codes p0444 and p0441 are both indicative of the purge valve fault and not the evap. http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-P0444 This tech info also confirms my suspicions. Unless you gas cap is also not sealing or missing? (unlikely it would make both codes).
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Thomas when did you last remove the throttle body and clean it? This is yours from your picture and I noticed its quite dirty. This isn't going to cure all your problems but may help or at least not add to the problems. As we emailed get a new battery 11.57volts is a dead dead battery, new purge valve and take the valve cover off and check the camshaft pick up tabs and possibly leaking spark plug hole gasket. It will be you Xmas present to yourself.
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This is bank 1 correct? Assuming you did the gasket change correct? no burnt exhaust valves, head not warped, all tolerances in spec .......would be great to have a write up on that especially the setting of the timing please. (I've had both head gasket replaced engine out job on my 06 ctt done by an indy) I suggest you remove the valve cover and check the bank 1 cam shaft pick up tabs are not bent or damaged? P0344 relates to cam position and P0300 0303 0304 are multiple misfire codes and cylinder 3 and 4 misfire respectfully. The other possibility is timing is set wrong or you have some vacuum leaks(much less likely but stranger things have happened on the cayenne), oil in the spark plugs (gaskets didn't seal unlikely as p0344 doesn't relate) failing coils or the coil have damaged wiring harness (less likely or a very unfortunate coincidence and P0344 doesn't relate either) intake manifold leaks to specific cylinders and or injector oring seal leaks (again unlikely). I would go with the pick up tabs bent if your confident the other possibilities won't be the cause. Easily bent when you lift on and off the valve cover. See below same cause but different code for cam shaft position different to crank shaft position.
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Pleasure to help. Thanks for updating and letting the forum know the fix, so many post go dead and never get closed, very frustrating to read a long thread and get to the end and no answer just open questions.
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Keeping this thread alive after ordering 2nos precat wide band air/fuel sensors I eventually got one delivered to mothers uk address, it seems the supply issue which prevented me from sourcing in UAE Bosch distributor is the same as all these ebayer sellers who claim to have their own stock, the lying ****s! Anyway, if I trust the data, only the bank 1 sensor is "lazy" producing much less milli-amps when rich than it is supposed to during snap throttle which means all the data it's streaming back to the dme is false and hopefully when replaced it in a fortnight when it get here and I have time to fit it, it will finally cure the remaining hesitation running issue. The performance overall excuse the part load hesitation is very good, wide open throttle after 3,000rpm to redline is very powerful, throttle response now I fix the various intake pipes air leaks and refreshed the ignition and fuel system is also so much better. I even got over 400km on the last tank and fuel light wasn't even on when I refilled. The trip range said 710km, ha ha I do love the optimism. 500km could be a very distant target if I drove like an eco warrior.
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Chris the pdcc system has three main issues. Leaks and more leaks, this would be my first thing to check all the lines, the distribution blocks and connections to sway bar for any fluid leaks. Rubbing and chaffing is common some parts are superseded to prevent this. Secondly the reservoir is a service item having a integrated filter, could it be blocked? Electrical connectors water ingress and or corrosion. The faulty pump causing low pressure, or pressure switch faulty causing high pressure. As JFP said need the fault codes, if red warning for sure there is a code.
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I would suggest they misdiagnosed the fault. What is the fault code exactly and is it the same code as originally shown before any repairs were done? What part(s) was changed? Often brake booster code ls relate to split vac pipes around the expansion tank area which run from the vac pump up down and around the expansion tank and along the fire wall to the brake servo. Do the test. Engine idle then switch off. Pump brake pedal a few times it should go hard after 3-6 pumps. Hold pedal down deep then restart engine and the pedal should depress further as the vacuum increases on the brake booster. Pull the pipe off the vac pump and blow down it hard if any air passes you got a leak. There are post on here for split pipe fixes.
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http://brembo-caliper-refurbs.uk/parts/
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404 is one of the fuel pump relays I guess the one you pulled was the left primary. FYI fuse 13 is left pump and fuse 14 is right side pump both 15 amp. The system uses the left driver side pump as the "primary pump" this pump is likely dead or a fuel line is broke between the pump and the fuel filter or something else strange is going on. Anyone been in there for any work? Previous related service history, model and mileage is helpful. Removing the fuse and/or relay automatically makes the other pump run on the right passenger side (assuming left hand drive). I bet if you had a low fuel level it would run with the both fuses and relays connected this is because below a certain fuel level both pumps run. Somewhere below 1/4 tank and the fuel light coming on both pumps will be running. So verdict is either a pump problem or associated component of the pump is the problem. One guy replaced his pumps and got some fuel pipes squashed, another connected the pipes wrong somehow, another guy had cracked pipes which only broke when he installed new pumps and that threw him off until he stripped it all out again. Of course do your Diagnostics to confirm this before spending out. Might be an opportune time to do some other service items like full filter and regulator as a dead pump would mean it done some service life already I'm guessing. Don't forget 2 new rubber Seals or you will regret it.
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I'm assuming this is the later system? The 2006 doesn't have Bluetooth. It only asked for sim card. I don't think micro sim was even conceived 10 yrs ago. Lol
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Thomas from my understanding the difference can be from -6 to +6 deviation between each bank, you have only a few degrees at idle and at 2000rpm. I your idle rough or smooth? If smooth you don't have a timing issue I very much doubt. Ignoring the codes. what are the bad running symptoms now? Pls try to explain how it runs when cold or hot and when idle, when accelerating, when cruising and when full Throttle blasting.
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Yep this is the same as mine 06 ctt, all the button for door lock and unlock and windows up down and window rear child lock is on the armrest.
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Hi Mike, my head gasket revealed itself as over heating at idle, it transpired that the gasket being metal was not broken but was leaking from the cylinder 2 or 3 of bank 1, the hot gases at idle entering the cooling system just boiled it up, if you revved the engine or was driving normally it would be able to maintain a normal temperature as the water pump flow is high enough to manage. Another way was sniffing the coolant in expansion tank obviously when cold, it smelt of fuel and that's a dead give away. Another noise I had on bank 1 unrelated to lifter or head gasket in fact was the SAI pump check valve from the exhaust is stuck open. This pulses exhaust gases back in the SAI pump and makes a blub blub blub pulsing noise in time with the firing rhythm of the bank 1. This has destroyed the SAI pump and it's full of carbon, I capped off the pipe and cleaned out the SAI pump. Problem solved sort of, in this climate I don't need SAI pump and it only for quicker cat warm up and emissions, so actual performance it has no effect. I just left them plugged in to avoid a check light although I do see a code about SAI pump under limit air flow or something like that sometimes, but never a check light.
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Thanks for the information. I do like the idea of using a 15w/40 or 50 fully synthetic oil if there is such a grade available here. Will need to do some reading up on ZDDP. Knowledge is king.
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Thomas if you haven't already got one buy a battery charger maintainer. I got one for a good price 50euro, it will top up (slowly) the charge of drained batteries and also is good for batteries of cars that don't get regular long drives, by way of topping off the charge keeping the battery healthy. I did suspect and mentioned in the post earlier that without an absolutely top condition well charged battery you may chasing a ghost problem. The cayenne platform seems to be one of the most susceptible cars to less than optimum battery condition. I now have brand new Alternator Hitachi, brand new top quality oem spec battery and use the car almost every day for 100plus km. If I do a few short journeys like move the from the basement to outside or out of warehouse to outside a few times in a row, you can tell it's having a draining effect on the battery such is the amperage draw of this engine cranking and running the subsystems. The alternator also has charging cycles, so hence longer journeys are key to battery life and reliability.
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I've got a lock and unlock button on the driver side arm rest by the electric window switches and rear windows child lock button. With the dash menu set to either auto locking or not autolocking no one can open the boot unless the key is sensed nearby or on the person trying to open it. I do have the close assist the last few mm pulling motor (not auto boot close). Could this be another symptom of my suspect Rear CCM? Along with the check tail light and fuel door lock stuck in closed position!
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Some good news then! Result. Shortly after I got my ctt back from the indy that did the head gaskets I could here a thud type noise from bank 1 which sounded quite unsettling, I would suspect it was a bad hydraulic lifter. By the time I drove it a few km's to the garage noise was gone and never came back. Weird. Last oil change the 5w/40 fully synthetic oil came out very black and thin. The oil filter was very dirty with lots of bits of crud and what I think was small gasket bits materials rubber and other sediment maybe left over from the head gasket job that flush out in the last 5000km but no metal. New oil is a cost effective 10w/40 semi synthetic which I'm not absolutely sure is the best oil for this particular engine, but my decision was based on the climate here which is between 18oC and 50oC. So a thinner oil is really not required for those not so cold starts. I intend to change my oil every 4-5000km. I guess the moral of the story is strange noises don't always spell impending engine failure, but don't ignore it. I was taught at college that black oil shortly after an oil change signifies that the oil cleaning properties are good, good quality oils will absorb and retain carbon better than cheaper oils. No idea about the detergent properties of mobile 1 compared to DT40? Which is the best multi-grade oil for a 115k km ctt running in a hot climate? Any thoughts gents.
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My God I think I would be kicking off, that's nearly as much as the car is worth. I took my Audi last month in for some "extended warranty" repairs just a couple of broken lower control arm bushes. They sent me a invoice for 6400dhs about $2000. They said bushes and engine mounts need replacement (they failed to check all these items was replaced under the warranty just 11months prior, yeah great OEM quality!). They said because my car was "modified" intake, supercharger pulley and stage 2 tune they would not cover the warranty, really!! suspension bushes excluded. I took that as a challenge. Luckily the audi head technican Tyson is a fellow English man, wink, I sent him an email and didn't pay a penny to the anger of the service advisor ha ha ha. Sorry my story doesn't relate directly, but this goes to show the dealer takes customers for a ride if they think they can get away with it. If you didn't instruct then you don't have to pay. The modules your mentioned are immobiliser (kessy) with 2 keys, ECM Engine control module (dme) and steering control module. It sounds more likely because of their software issues they want to replace all the other modules to get around it, at your expense. What if that does not work? Crazy
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And the test drive results? Whistle noise gone? Overboost code still popping up? Engine Power back to full or still down? The suspense is killing me............lol For reference the driver side DV vac pipe nipple connection points to the floor when installed correctly. Pic 1. The passenger side DV vac pipe nipple points to the rear of the car when installed correctly. Pic 2 Easy way to check is the boost from turbo outlet enters from the side of the dv and vents out the bottom back to the turbo inlet.
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2006 ctt I looked all over and no dedicated interior button to unlock boot for me. Pain in the butt every time to open the boot have to get out with the key or pass the key to who ever needs to open it. Can't imagine why it would be on an earlier model then not a later model. Am I missing something? On the audi unlocking the doors if on auto lock after driving and then stopped then unlocks all doors obviously and the boot, not on my cayenne though.
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Thanks for the link great info. I think I'm going to have some small and normal length 22mm spanners which I can modify if required. I will remove the lower covers, wheel arch inner liners and air boxes as this takes just 10 mins to do I have em off so many times and makes a lot a lot space to work. Will be changing the passenger side strut top mount at the same time as I'm already half way into there. Also order a parking brake gas strut to swap my lazy one which keeps making the parking warning beep. If only tinkering with cars was a free hobby .............
