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lewisweller
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Everything posted by lewisweller
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Short answer is no.
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Mechanical air pump? where's that at mike? Purge valve faulty hey! Wink. I think the 20 dollar one would work just fine. Everything is made in China, the world better wake up, they already took over this mother f**ker. Lol
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My front differential made a quiet but noticeable whine noise. I changed the fluid twice in a year and didn't find anything metallic or abnormal, I bet its still is fine now for the new owner and he can't even hear it, must be deaf! So if yours is not totally buggered why not just change the fluid for Redline heavy duty shock resistant 75w90 diff oil and run it until something happens. For the second hand option : Well if you could hear it in operation in the donor car before removing that's ideal but unlikely. You could try a bench test, rig up something to drive it. Or strip it down and check it before you go to the hassle of removing your old one. From my understanding the diff usually becomes noisy from the bearing(s). Chipped tooth also possible visual inspection will identify that. Erm you could get the Used one and just buy the new bearings etc and refurb it so you know it's gonna be perfect when you install it. Bearings aren't expensive and ive seen somewhere a how to for the rebuild. Good luck.
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I've had the battery disconnected many times and didn't need any code for the radio 2006 ctt. I wouldn't stress about it!
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Can't remember ever going into the door Electrica module.
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Where are you reading 13.7v from? I see 5.2v stated as ch1. Looks normal for PWM. https://www.tlxtech.com/understanding-solenoids/theory-operation/pwm-solenoid-theory The voltage is on/off, hence 0v up to ??v is seen. So this shows your valve is open about 70%. I don't think this proves the valve is mechanically working correctly. But electrically it is looking normal. Bit of carb cleaner squirted in the open end whilst it's operating might free up a potential gummy blockage? Or from the back side pipe which means some removal required. Or spend 100 bucks on a new purge valve to find out if you wasted 100 bucks. Oh you should test the valve when the code is present and whilst it's on test reset the code and see what happens ! Init.
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Check the wiring to the purge valve. Maybe getting crispy. You confirmed the purge valves works but it's very likely the valve can work but not properly or intermittently. Also that check valve you repaired, is it possible it is getting stuck open or closed ? I would be seriously looking at the purge valve as when you clear the code only something electrical can work again on command ie the purge valve itself.
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Yes pipe 4 is the venturi pipe, it creates vacuum for the brake booster by allowing manifold pressure to bleed off and back around to the connector located in the Y pipe in front of the throttle. This air flow even though it's positive pressure cleverly creates a vacuum in the other tube which Tees into another pipe linked to the vac pump and around to the booster. As the air in the system is not lost this doesn't affect the MAF measurements. The vacuum pump is therefore afforded a rest. When your at idle and pump the brake pedal repeatedly you can hear the vac pump kick in as the venturi pipe isn't able to create enough vacuum at idle if your pumping the pedal. This is how to test the vac pump works. And also the engine off, brake pedal pumped until hard and held down, then engine on, pedal should drop as vac in booster increases. So by blowing or sucking pipe 4 I think it is correct it is open into the manifold.
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Yeah flow through that valve 25 or more like lack of it, seems to point to the code accurately.
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Part numbers attached picture is items 14 and 25 for the valve you have to buy the whole pipe section. Rolls eyes. These one way valves ( just noticed they have arrows on them!) are normally open or flap around sort of open and require boost pressure from the manifold side to close properly or vaccum to open properly. Get your head round that! I think during idle vacuum 25 is sucked open and draw through vented tank fumes via the purge valve if it's open. Then when you're on acceleration the boost pressure closes 25 and 14 is actually sucked open via the turbo intake pipe where it's connects to. So the simple test is to suck hard on the disconnected open end of the pipe(s) as per your picture and they should be closed.
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Looks like this tyre was fitted on the rear and it's been toeing in for a while hence the dragging of rubber marks seen in the last picture. I've seen worse!
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I'm on the edge of my seat.........
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Mike I replaced these and you don't need to remove the valve cover or sensor or anything. Buy the seal part number 4 from Porsche not too expensive! Don't say that often do we! Then remove plastic cover and disconnect electrical connector. Use a wide strong flat blade screw drivers to deform the old seal enough to pull it up and out. Be careful not to crack or scratch the chappy plastic valve cover recess. Wipe Clean all surfaces. I added a smear of red high temp gasket sealer to my new seal outer edge to be sure it would seal nicely and slid it in and home with a socket sat on top and a gentle tap. Job takes about 10 minutes per side. Piece of p*ss. Mine were dribbling and weeping a bit of oil so that's why I did it and I thought it may also be a vacuum leak so double whammy Fix.
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Have drained you drivers side intercooler ?
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It won't do either. It only operates the first 20sexond of a cold start . After that it's completely unused.
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Block it off and forget about it.
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Others had this and turned out to be a battery issue. I would check the battery is OK 12.6v with engine off is ideal and also the a charging system (13.8-14.2v is ideal) is OK first.
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Thomas I had the same issue the valve is stuck open and allows hot exhaust to pump back into the pipe and into the air pump. Use a 1/2-3/4" GI plug can't remember the exact size (Pic attached)and jubilee clip to close the pipe and forget about it. Pulsing sound will be gone as well. The valve part no 10 is not electronic, its mechanical only, it's spring loaded and the air pump opens the valve against the spring pressure. You can replace the valve but it is extremely difficult to access.
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You know I struggled with part throttle stutter and hesitation for a year before selling my 06 ctt. And I ran though everything. The only thing I found and didnt fix before selling was the injectors didn't spray clean or properly, which I'm 95% was the real issue, no codes, fuel trims were spot on, never broke down because of that issue anyway. I had new coil, plugs, pumps, regulator, filter, no vacuum leaks, new Divertors, new mafs, new lambda sensors. You get the idea anything that could have been showing 11 yrs of age was replaced. Oh I also had alternator failure which replaced with new and several new batteries under warranty until the 3 rd one was a good one. So that ruled out electrical issues for me and I replaced the fuel pump fuses and relays, which didn't resolve the issue. So I guess what I'm saying is test the fuel pressure and flow on both pumps individually and double test them when tank is full too. Being intermittent is a real b * tch to find as you may well test ok many times but one time you catch it slippin. Scanner Dan uses his oscilloscope to monitor the amps the pump pulls and you can see from the wave form each segment of the rotor windings chopping and you can identify if the pump is failing but still seems to work. Most garages tend to swap both pumps if they suspect / diagnose a fuel pump issue (at your expense of course). I think your looking at some head scratching ....
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Are you using the same fuel station every time or random? Could there be water contamination or something worse at a certain garage you use? Contaminants settles to bottom of tank shortly after refilling and gets sucked through and cause the stuttering? You need a fuel pump test.
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Lol not on your life. Well not unless I get a 911 get 2/3 or carrera 4s or something rapid in later life when I'm bald on top lol but never a older Porsche especially the Cayenne. I sold the Audi also in PX for my old Golf R and then sold that too. Made a nice little profit on the deal. Driving (dad's) company car Nissan Maxima 3.5 v6 cvt, Piece of sh*t but comfortable and no hassles for me. Off to uk next year so looking for an Audi 2.0T FSI and go stage 2 on it for some fun. Once you go fast Audi you never go back. .....
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I had check tail light and never found the problem. Could be rear comfort control unit. Could be bad earth, could be low voltage could be bad connection.
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This info is incorrect that's why. This is from the publication Porsche Service Technik. Regulation of Fuel Quantity. As a result of the on-demand regulation of fuel flow capacity, fuel heating in the tank is reduced. This is achieved by the DME control module switching on fuel pump 2 only as required, while fuel pump 1 is always activated. With the following switching criteria, fuel pump 2 is additionally switched on to increase flow capacity. At engine start and then 2 seconds run-on (with a hot start 5 seconds run-on). With a calculated fuel consumption of > 50 liters/hour the pump is switched on, and at < 45 liters/hour switched off again. With a fill level of < 10 liters in the tank, it is switched on and with > 15 liters it is switched off again. Props to Bigbusuki.
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To clear up a few things: They are mafs next to each air box. Pins locked or unlocked don't matter. Green pipe isnt going to cause any issues for running. The map sensor is also temp sensor built in. If your standing in front of the car looking at the engine the left side is bank 1 the right side bank 2. Bank 1 cyclinder start 1234 from the front to back, bank 2 is 4567 front to back. In future this may help avoid confusion. Interesting about the purge valve disconnected did nothing to change the symptoms. I think you need to have fuel pressure and flow tested. I got a feeling your left pump is weak. Until then try this: open the "wet fuse box" pull out the number 14 fuse for the left pump, cycle ignition off and on which forces the dme to run engine on the right pump. see how it runs. (Need to keep above half tank for this mind).
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I'm a bit confused by the codes and number of air temp sensors you're seeing. I thought there was a built in "intake air temp" sensor on the MAP sensor and one mounted in front of the radiator (ambient temp).
