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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. MAP sensor, it's sitting directly on top of the Y pipe. Sometimes it can get oil contamination, carb cleaner will sort that. Electrically though, brittle wires is also a common thing to see on these aging cars. I doubt this is related to the filling up and subsequent rough running that follows. P1880 doesn't seem to be genuine code or could be "transfer case disengagement" what ever that means or something totally different, more likely the reader your using is getting it's wires crossed I think. 3/4 tank for me is the way to go, this will really point towards the evap canis
  2. PIWIS cable? Fit the PV when it comes in, until then not much point scratching your head more.
  3. I would not pressure wash, coils are prone to flood, valley of banks will flood and corrode everything not to mention running down into the torque convertor seal. Recipe for disaster Just use some engine cleaner wd and a cloth. Rinse off with damp cloth and squirrel bottle on mist is the most I would gamble on.
  4. Although I still think an intermittently faulty PV is the most likely cause the other possible faulty component could be a saturated evap canister. To disprove the canister you could run the tank down to 1/4 then fill only to 3/4, this would in theory not saturate again the canister (unless completely clogged which one would expect a code for tank venting problems and difficulty in filling up, nozzle keeps clicking off as air in tank can't vent out quick enough). If the car ran fine after doing this a few times it may point away from the PV. 100 bucks for the pv, I would have alrea
  5. Burning of oil residue from the intake, turbo intercooler etc where it sits for a while until you drive it a bit harder then it clears out via the engine but you still smell it in the car. Mine did it also but not really that much as I nearly always drove it quite hard. My Golf turbo did the same if my wife drove it for a week slow then I drove it hard at the weekend would stink a bit the first time it saw 6000 rpm and small puff of smoke also.
  6. For sure the Indy had a thick oil or oil additive in it. This engine is basically junk or rebuild at huge expense. This indy garage just F'd you over. Baseball bat and knee cap Em.
  7. Disconnect ( open unclip) the pipe of 3 at the rear of bank 2 side almost directly under the SAI pump where it goes into a flexible hose 33, pipe sits in the injectors area. Then blow down the rigid pipe which is assembled as part of the purge valve 3. It should be shut when powered off. So normal closed, power signal from dme to open I believe. It was the first thing I replaced on mine but I had a code! P0441 or p0444, one of them
  8. You will know. I changed the coils for newest revision 21 when I bought the car, (the coil in their were cracked and it did misfire under load at higher rpm) and after 11 months I replaced them all again. Changed plugs also for beru oem, and two sets of ngk plugs, regapped them twice with no effect on the stutter. Didn't make any difference, so coils and or plugs wasn't the issue I'm almost 99.9% sure. My issue was the injectors, they didn't spray clean or in a decent pattern. I tested them with solvent cleaner spray can and a 12v battery to open them. I never had
  9. Probably will need to replace part 16. Unless you can diy Fix It with something.
  10. Octane 95/97/99 won't change anything adversely. Higher Octane will actually reduce knock, allow more ignition advance and increase power and torque with less risk of pre-ignition. So higher Octane equals less chance of stuttering. Evap purge valve possibly could be leaking by? Left fuel pump weakness is quiet common! Try switching to the right side pump (remove fuse for left pump and cycle the ignition and start) when tank is over 1/2 full, fill it up and see if it will stutter. The fact the last two cylinder on each bank was the issue before suggests fuel pressu
  11. Just test the battery voltage with engine off ignition off. Should be ideally 12.6 volts but acceptable is 12.3, any less is a undercharged or failing battery most likely. If the battery is looking ok and you only get 13volts when alternator is charging then that would suggest alternator is underperforming. Check the battery terminals are tight and clean also and earth cable to body connection is good and clean of corrosion. More investigation required I think.
  12. P2189 is lean mixture on bank 2. Few things spring to mind, Intake manifold gasket leaks Fuel injector blockages,fuel pressure / flow reduced, o2 sensor malfunction, maf sensor coils, plugs, compression etc The list is long, you will need to look at your fuel trims and sensors data. Also don't forget lean mixture can also mean misfire !! Lambda or o2 sensors only see excess oxygen not unburnt fuel, if you have misfires it can be flagged as lean codes also. Counter intuitive. So I would pull all coils and plugs on bank 2 inspect take pictures a
  13. You may be good to go then. I thought you had cleared the psm code and it returned. Good luck and enjoy.
  14. Psm light on probably means despite fixing the major leak in the vacuum system ( cracked pipe) you still have a small leak, most likely in the cracked pipe Fix. Do this test, run engine and switch off, pump brake pedal and count the pumps until it goes hard hence the brake booster assistance is gone because the vacuum used up by the pumping. Then hold the brake pedal down and start the engine, you will feel the pedal get softer and you are able to depress it further as vacuum is built up, approximately how far did your pedal move down when you started the engine? How many pump
  15. Before you go wasting any money disconnect your battery and then remove the throttle body and clean it with some solvent cleaner or pure alcohol and a soft cloth. Reinstall throttle, check plug pins are clean and not damaged and reconnect. Make sure all vacuum pipes underneath are connected and not resting near the water pump pulley which could cause rubbing and damage. Reconnect your battery, switch ignition to on but don't start engine and don't touch accelerator pedal. After 2 minutes switch off ignition. Switch ignition back on and plug in your code reader, clear all codes and
  16. Common fault. Many have fixed this with some jb weld or epoxy. This pipe is for the brake booster vacuum part of 13 to 14 I believe so now you know why your getting the codes and weird Braking issues. If you search this forum you'll find others who have diy fixed this before.
  17. The blower can be removed cleaned up and lubricated and reinstalled to alleviate that issue or you can replace with new. Removal of glove box is required. Pelican has a diy for that. Oil level measure when engine has been resting for 10 mins, hot and cold level will vary alittle but not a lot. Keeping oil between 1/2 and 3/4 is ideal.
  18. The pcv return is piped onto the driver side bank 2 turbo so seeing oil on the right side only stands to reason. Over filling won't help and is ill advised, but it seems some oil seen in the right side and in the Y pipe intake etc is normal for these aging engines. Pull off the bottom intercooler hose and drain that if you want to some more oil! Porsche apparently tell customer draining the oil from the intercooler is a normal practice every 40,000 km or something.
  19. Yeah I would try just checking first the plug is not wet or corroded. Especially after it only occurred after Rain.
  20. This may help https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/50725-cayenne-2009/?tab=comments#comment-283829
  21. Its not overheating, it is designed to open fully at 87oC and the fan also cuts in to maintain that temperature from rising and invariably drops the temp back to 80oC fairly quickly. As I said stuck open is not a big issue, stuck closed is!
  22. I would say the rise is normal but the drop to 60oC identifies the thermostat is stuck open as the engine temperature should be maintained at 80oC all the time and not less. I would hazard a guess your engine takes a long time to warm up? Classic stuck open thermostat symptom. The thermostat is designed to open partially at 83oC I believe and fully open at 87oC. The dash gauges is also not very accurate! If you have the AC on the temperature is maintained more strictly from rising as the fans are already running. If the AC is off the engine coolant will rise to around 87oC then fal
  23. This is number 1 Bull****. Search YouTube for that inside joke. In your previous post you said about changing both pumps but you didn't go ahead with it I'm assuming? Unfortunate, it's probably the only Fix you needed. It was also the #1 Likely problem I posted in my reply, left fuel pump. Anyhow we are all wise after the fact. The pumps can have a tenancy to test ok and still fail, a real b*tch to diagnose and a brave punt to replace even when the testing shows otherwise, so don't beat yourself or the mechanic up too much. The reason behind this is to do with fuel heating, (its al
  24. If your on 20's without any issues I wouldn't waste your money. Get a good set of ngk plugs like Bkr7eix and save the coil money for some other future maintenance or repairs.
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