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lewisweller

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Everything posted by lewisweller

  1. Yep i got that. Unless folks your stuck in the middle of nowhere without any other option (which I wasn't stuck in the middle of nowhere), use the proper bush and don't bodge it like me.
  2. I did Fix this by installing a stainless steel washer under the nut and some super glue on the shaft between the split bush. Tighten the nut onto the stainless steel washer and left it over night. Been working fine ever since.
  3. Good news. If you got any pics or more details pls post as it will help others in the future. Happy motoring.
  4. 90% it's the Hpfp. Bank 2 rear fitted tight between the end of the cam cover and the firewall. Many failures have been seen. https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=33572
  5. Ask for the old parts. And just happen to past by around day two and have a look how they are getting on. Take pictures for future reference, I still check back on mine for help with other diy repairs and locating items.
  6. Check for broken damaged or corroded wires in the loom harness under drivers (left hand drive) foot well carpet. Is the carpet wet? Battery in good shape?
  7. I'm sure he mean just this section which has plastic trim covering it
  8. Picked up the car yesterday around 1.30pm temp was reading 55oC, I couldn't even touch the steering wheel and burnt my *** on the seat leather. Started up and tried to get the ac cooling but it was pumping out hot air, hotter than the outside temp. The garage guy wasn't there and his employee said "oh thats strange they re-gassed it and it was all fine". He then asked me for money to pay the bill, which I declined, I will check the car first I told him. After 5 mins I gave up sitting there and went for a drive around, car felt ok but AC doesn't work at all! Knowing all there mechanics are not working due to Ramadan hours here I decided to just drive home, I give up with these idiots. Bad idea really, got stuck in Thursday afternoon traffic and had 50oC sauna for 1 hr until I turned of the traffic jam and headed to another fuel station garage. They checked the AC and confirmed my hunch there is no Gas at all inside. They vacuumed and found no leaks. They tried to fill the gas again but the refrigerant won't go inside. He said either the Schrader valve is faulty or the low pressure side piping is blocked. I noticed the low pressure schrader cap is missing when it was there before these other garage monkeys worked on the car and also there is a flat head screw driver wedge indent in the schrader Rubber valve. Can't see it on the picture though. So I then proceeded to drive another 50 mins without AC to my house. Oh and the bonnet strut is broke and the locking Wheel nut adaptor missing still. So they aren't getting paid. I will fix everything and just send the pictures of the repair bills to the guy with a big F**k you. I haven't confirmed that their claim there is no oil leaks from the bell housing/transmission area is true. It will be just my luck I find its still leaking. I'm going to uk tonight so all this mess will have to wait until mid July. I may order some stuff from uk whilst I'm there as it cheaper. I just want to get it all working properly and sell it. I don't even need a second car now. Sob Sob.
  9. That's ignition cycles not misfires. Error in the description on software. If it was misfires the car wouldn't be able to run like that.
  10. Hard to hear that humming. If you turn the steering it should change the humming pitch even just a little, this will verify the power steering pump or not Just note the water pump and alternator can hum and whine a bit, also the cayenne has a habit of being a bit whiney. I think something to do resonance of pulleys belts etc. 13 volts is a sure sign that something is going to go wrong soon with alternator or battery is weak. What's the voltage with engine off? Less than 12.6v is on the way to undercharged. But above 12.4 is acceptable it seems for most of in aged cayenne. It may be the battery is weak as a result of a failing alternator! Pads need Cooper grease or they squeak and squeal like a pig (no pun intended). The "ceramic or high performance" type pads are super noisey I'm told. I still have squeaks using oem vw touareg pads which are in fact made by Brembo, I need to clean and grease them every 10k km. Same for rear brakes. Don't think getting to the coolant Tees is that easy even with manifold off. I would advise you ask them to scrutinise every and all vac, pcv breather pipes they may encounter because it's a real pain to go back in there again. Coil packs aren't exactly cheap for 8nos, but if you got cash to splash and no record of service replacement previously then go for coils and plugs, at least you won't be one of the many cayenne misfire sufferers. Moreover if that noise turns out to be something major like bottom end, scored bores or timing chain/top end failure then your in for a big kick in the crutch. Tread carefully my friend. ......you do have the opportunity to act now with the sale warranty.
  11. Just had a brain wave. I think the weird vibration and noise was because the suspension was not functioning properly and front collapsed. I've read the cayenne can be susceptible to this as the driveline is not aligned when suspension ride height is not within normal spec. This may also explain why after I managed to get it somewhat levelled with the vagcom today before the test drive it was seemingly better. Still need to sort out the left front sensor electrical circuit fault code so the suspension will work properly. Any ideas why the rear suspension creaks when going from normal to low or up to terrain? It was pretty silent before. Maybe a bit of silicon spray needed on the bushes.
  12. Maybe, if the car is very hot and had hard drive then you quickly pull up and switch off the engine in a quiet area you may be able to hear the pump running. Put you ear against the front drivers wing any humming or noise is for sure the pump running. If the DME doesn't think the car is hot and been pushed hard it won't run the pump. So you need to drive it hard when already at normal temp and then pull over quickly and switch off immediately.
  13. Went there today, the air suspension wouldn't calibrate, took me ages to get it to validate all four corners, because there was a electrical fault code for the left front. I told them to find the fault likely a cable they forgot to connect back properly. Went for a drive and it felt better got up to 100-110 briefly in the small roads there and it much better. AC gassed more so manageable now, was never great anyway in summer. Still not happy with the suspension it Smashing something, I asked them to recheck everything again. I didn't notice any noise or vibration from the rear wheels or bearings so that was hog wash. They didn't actually tell me what they found and fixed which leads me to believe something silly was forgotten like loose bolts on a driveshaft or something and they rectified it, but they was leaving me to think I imagined the whole issue. Spotted a leak of fuel on the fuel rail Schrader valve which wasn't seated closed. They screw driver pulsed it open and fuel sprayed out obviously but it did reseal and stop dripping. Still they can't find my lost locking Wheel nut socket! Nightmare indeed.
  14. Update, the guy messaged me this morning to ask me to come tonight. I asked what is the problem. He said no leaks and no vibration at all, he said the noise is from the rear tires/wheel bearing! I'm thinking how? If they found nothing then they Fix nothing and for sure the rear is not the issue. I'm starting to lose my patients, I've asked to keep the car on the lift so I can do some visual checks myself then we will go for test drive and I'll see if this vibration is gone or not. He doesnt mention the other items, like the AC Gas underfilled, the indicator light loose connection and missing locking Wheel nut socket tool! I'm off to uk next week and can't be doing with this crap still ongoing. What a nightmare.
  15. Wow! Whats you battery voltage like? Also I would be checking for broken wires of the engine loom which run from the DME to pretty much all the items of the fault code. Clear the codes and recheck straight away with engine running. If the codes immediately pop back up then wiring is my guess. If the codes come back after a while of driving then very strange low voltage, DME or accumulation of errors. All very strange but as we know with the cayenne even a few corroded wires in the foot well under the carpet can cause a load of warnings, lift up the carpet and see if any wires are damaged or wet, take pictures.
  16. Didn't have time today, but sent a message to the guy, he said the front right suspension strut is leaking. I said that wasnt the cause of the many other issues but no reply. Will drop in there tomorrow after picking up the boy from school.
  17. No news since dropping off, so I'm guessing they are knee deep in sh*t and trying to fix all the cock ups. I will drop in there on Saturday and surprise them, maybe the car will be in pieces again with engine on the floor. I almost wish they would torch it and I can claim the insurance.
  18. Yeah get under the passenger seat and whip out the control module. (You will find the transmission and TC module under there in a plastic cassette type case thing. Check part number of each and that will tell you which one is the TC, part number 0AD927755AB or similar IIRC, can't remember what the differences was in appearance though. Check the plug and harness for damages ( the harness can get trapped in the seat mechanism!) and then crack the control module open and check the board for fried components, bulging capacitors or anything obvious. Take pictures!!! Post them!!! Don't be scared off by scaremongering people that say "oh you can't open them little black boxes of witch craft, the world will end". Ha ha Read the pdf attached for testing for faults codes 2040 and 2041, it looks as though the consensus is if not for a wiring issue/fuse blown, then either the servo motor or the control module is faulty. Used control modules on Ebay are cheap as chips like £30 and they don't need to be programmed to your car it is plug and play as long as you buy another module with the same part number of the same manufacture year etc so I've been reliably informed and read. After that throw hands up in the air and reach for the wallet. TRANSFER BOX.pdf
  19. From my experience on the 06 v8 ctt the Hitachi and other brands seen on the cayenne all have the regulator soldered in and they are also hard to find and buy. Also from my own opinion and experience with the alternator it is not wise to try and save money on a repair, as it's labour intensive to replace this doesn't make sense not to just replace with a genuine Hitachi new unit and have that peace of mind. Found mine via eBay seller, be careful it is not REMAN (remanufactured) or another brand they are total junk. Cost me £595. I did mine twice and never want to do it again total nightmare job.
  20. I think the fan speed is infinitely variable and increases and decreases according to the Ecu command. I also don't think mine runs after engine is off, but there is a water circulation pump mounted in the driver side front wheel arc area which circulates coolant around for a short time after engine of and also is the pump that gives the climate control system heat for a short period after engine is off keeping passengers remaining inside the car warm.
  21. The cayenne was renowned for having a faulty rear comfort control module which would not work properly with factory Tow package. Problem resolved by replacement and coding of new module which is by PIWIS unfortunately, note even the dealers sometimes could not get the pesky thing to work properly. Good luck. https://www.etrailer.com/question-165474.html This thread was very interesting and also if you see they had issue with brake lights not working and bought a kit from Porsche to fix it!
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