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99C2_Riyanto

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About 99C2_Riyanto

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    michaelriyanto

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    Michigan
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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
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    99 C2

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  1. I suppose it's hard to comment without knowing the degree of the back problem that you have. In my humble opinion, only you can decide after test driving a boxster S. The clutch effort on a boxster S is definitely more than on an S2000, RX-8, and many other japanese sports cars. Although, not as heavy as the 993, for example. I think the Boxster S' clutch pedal requires about the same effort as a 996's, if you happen to have driven one. Compared to a Ford Mustang's, Boxster S' is much lighter. I personally like the firmer clutch pedal from a porsche. It makes a driver feel more engaged. The only time I'd change my mind is on an occasional stop and go traffic jam. About the shifter.... I'm ashamed to admit this, but I don't really like 996's and Boxster's. If you compare it to your old miata's shifter, you might be disappointed. It's not 'snick snick' like you described it. Anyone who owns one would probably agree that getting it into 2nd gear when the transmission is very cold requires some getting used to. You need to apply steady firm pressure, wait for the synchro to get up to speed, then it slides into 2nd gear smoothly. No rushing it when it's cold or you'd hear grinding. Although, you did mention that you are looking for 2008 or 2009 model. Maybe Porsche has improved this in the newer model years.
  2. Assuming you keep the width the same? If the 17" wheels are narrower, then the answer is obvious: contact patch. 17" pro: Much cheaper tires and you'll be going through lots of those if you do track events regularly. cons: Slightly slower reaction time since the car will be slightly more 'springy' with the same suspension. You may have a problem in the future if you ever want to upgrade your brake calipers. Some people may propose weight factor, but I've done quick calculations between 17" and 18" forged wheels with either michelin PSC or yokohama AD07. I have the found the combined weights of both setups are nearly identical.
  3. Thanks Orient Express. My mechanic told me he has done it. So, that one possible cause is checked off the list. I'll go to the track this Sunday to see whether that helps at all. It's impossible to make the car overheat with commute driving. Actually, yesterday, I revved the car to redline in 3rd gear to reach 99 mph and the temperature actually dropped, not rised. Hopefully, this is my last question in this thread: Some people told me the car's fans are supposed to keep turning after I turn off the engine if it is at full operating temperature. I don't remember ever hearing the fans turning after I shut down the engine, no matter how hot it is. 996 carrera owners, do your cars do that? How hot does the water temp need to be to have that behavior going?
  4. Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll look into your suggestions. Loren, what's the easiest way to rule out the water pump impeller? The dealership noted the car has been checked with PST, but didn't say anything about PIWIS. Does PIWIS provide more information than PST? Dealership also noted the water temp was 205F after 50 miles of city driving and deemed it was normal. I personally don't think it's normal, since it was 55F outside and the car has always been able to maintain 190F since I owned it. This doesn't bother me as much as the fact that I can't go to any track event anymore since the car wouldn't go more than 5-7 laps before it gets into the red zone.
  5. Hi, I need advice on an overheating issue on my 3.4L 996 (built in Mar '98, engine replaced at 52K miles, currently has 105K miles total on the car). First occurence of overheating was this summer on a race track. Since then, every time I do 5 hot laps, the water temp gauge goes all the way to the red zone. On stop and go city traffic, the needle moves higher than 190F, but still below the white line that is unnumbered on the gauge. On freeways, the car maintains 190F just fine. I took it to an independent technician who recharged the coolant 3 times and replaced a fuse and 4 relays related to the fans. I was advised the fans would turn when powered with an external power source, but not when hooked up in the car. The technician ran out of ideas about the fans. Then, I took it a porsche dealership. 1 hour of diagnostic later, I was told everything checked out fine. Nothing is found wrong with the car and the technician couldn't replicate the overheating. Well, duh, I've already told them the problem can only be replicated with certainty on the race track. The dealership then advised me to take the car to a radiator specialist for a power flush. This would cost $250 and I haven't done it since I can't see a good reasoning for it. Any ideas? Do 996's fans turn on when the A/C is turned on as in most cars?
  6. Price sounds reasonable. When I bought my car, I checked prices for similar cars on autotrader.com, panorama classifieds (through PCA), and edmunds.com. That should give you the average and reasonable ceiling/floor. When it comes to precious cars like Porsches, it's hard to get a more exact figure as when we are shopping for a civic. When you love the car, a couple thousands more/less is less important. As in what could be wrong with the car, a $225 Pre-Purchase Inspection at a respectable dealer is the best investment. Don't have the selling dealer to inspect it though, due to the obvious conflict of interest. I don't know which part of OH the car is in, but I had my PPI done by Midwestern Auto Group. They were excessive in what they recommended I should fix, but better excessive than not thorough enough. Stoddard is also in OH if you are closer to them. In my case, I bought a 6 year old Porsche. You are buying a 2 year car under factory bumper to bumper warranty. I would not be too concerned about problems. If you are referring to 996's RMS leak problem, I think you must have read enough about that on various forums here. Unless you really like to have the bottom of the car squeaky clean, it is really not a problem. On 997, I believe Porsche AG has redesigned that section 3 or 4 times, so it should be a lot less likely to happen on your 997. Can't comment on leather interior and Nav. Those are personal preferences. I am budget limited and prefer to have extra $$ in my pocket for those fun DE events. My iphone is good enough to give me directions and real time traffic updates. I believe all PSE have on/off switch if they are factory installed. What tires did you get from the factory? Bridgestone S-02 and the approved pirellis are known to wear our really fast, though the bridgestones are known to be quiet. I believe Michelins last longer. It is very common for a pair of front tires to last as long as a pair of rear tires due to 911's rear weight bias and being the driving end. I use Yokohamas. My fronts can last almost 20K miles and the rears only last 10K miles. The bridgestones and pirellis mentioned before last shorter than these. How much? Close to $1K for a set of 4 depending on whether you are on 18 or 19". Check Tire Rack. Hope it helps.
  7. This must be little consolation for you, but my car has that same disgusting white residue. I am curious what it is myself. I am worried that may be residue from burnt coolant, since my car had some coolant getting into cylinder #5 many years ago. My engine has been replaced, but I don't think the oil funnel was replaced along with it.
  8. There is nothing wrong with your transmission. This is a common question asked by owners of the 6 speed. There is something peculiar about the double cone synchros of the 2nd gear. Some owners have tried a variety of transmission oil to remedy this, but there is always a trade off. For example, I have Amsoil now in my transmission. It improves the shifting when hot, but exaggerates the behavior when cold. I have read owners' review of other brands and sounds like there is something better and worse with every different tranny lube product. Yes, you can actually feel the shifting changes with different oil brand. Just take your time shifting into 2nd, especially when cold. Don't rush it. There is very little chance that your 2nd gear synchros are bad. Even IF that is true, I personally wouldn't rush to a mechanic to have the transmission rebuilt if the grinding is only occasional. The cost to rebuild a transmission is stratospherical and will be the same cost regardless the condition of the synchros. I personally would try to nurse it as long as I can by not rushing my shifts and using double clutching technique when downshifting to 2nd. JMHO :drive:
  9. Go with Porsche's. I'm currently using the exact combination you're asking about: Zimmerman rotors and Pagid OE replacement pads. I find the zimmerman rotors work great on street and track, but there is a section of the rotor that is not coated like the Porsche's. So, that section will rust overtime unless you coat it with something. This is just an appearance thing, but why bother? Stick with Porsche's if you can find it cheaper. As for pads, I can't say what the difference is with Porsche's and Pagid's basic OE replacement pads. They look identical and perform identically in my opinion. So, why not go with the Porsche's if it costs the same or cheaper? By the way, Porsche has a "sport" replacement pads, which may be comparable to Pagid Blue pads. Check with sunset or suncoast. That may interest you and please post your feedback if you go with the Porsche "sport" pads. I'm curious myself. By the way, don't forget to replace the vibration dampeners. If you don't, the new pads will squeal like a schoolbus, then you have to redo it :cursing: I've been there.
  10. 52000 miles when it died. Symptom before death: found coolant in cylinder 5.
  11. I think engine failures are quite common in early 996s. For USA, 1999 model is as early as it comes. Ask whether this car has had its engine replaced. I personally have a 99 C2 Coupe built in Mar 1998, which I bought in 2005, knowing that the original engine died at 52K miles and was replaced. I had comfort knowing that the car has a new engine that PAG has supposedly improved. Knowing that the car you are looking at only has a few teen thousand miles.... if there was any defect in that engine, it's possible that it hasn't surfaced, I suppose? Any chance you can get an extended warranty on the powertrain? As for price difference for higher miles model, mine has 92K miles on it (40K on new engine) and it is only worth mid 20s, but does not have all the fancy options you listed. If I had $40K to spend on a 911, I would prefer one with 3.6L 320 hp engine. I am not a big fan of nav and aero kit, but that's personal preference. Does Porsche Stability Management (PSM) matter to you? Some people prefer to have it and some people loath it, this may affect your decision too between 1999 vs newer models. Cayman S? Awesome car :drive: But, it is missing the gorgeous sloping C pillar of the 911. I prefer to look at 911s, but am very interested to drive a cayman S on the track.
  12. 1999 996 6 spd. 20 MPG average city/hwy 26 MPG on out of town freeway cruising 7 MPG on the track I think those are really really good numbers. My wife's VW Jetta with only 172hp gets the same MPG.
  13. This site has a complete resource on maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...=maint_menu_car Since the car is more than 4 years old, regardless of miles, I would do the major 30,000 miles service if it was my car. If you don't want to do everything on the menu, at the least you must do the polyrib belt and brake fluid. I wouldn't touch the coolant, just top if off if necessary. Should you do it yourself if you were a novice? That's your call :) The DIY section of this site is rich of step by step instructions. You can judge whether you should. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showforum=114 I personally decided Polyrib belt and spark plugs are beyond my small brain's capability. Changing oil, brake pads, and air filter are okay.
  14. Smack, if you do your DEs with PCA, you don't need a fixed roll bar. At least, my chapter does not require it for 996 Cabs. The ATE fluid, I believe, has boiling point about 100+ degrees higher than DOT4 fluid. As for brake pads, I use new OE pads myself. I don't have a problem with it so far. No mushy pedal feel after 25 minutes track sessions. I can still invoke the ABS if I brake hard enough, so the friction is there. Having said that, I'll upgrade to the Pagid Blue pads next time :) out of curiosity. It will squeal more though. The Pagid Orange is one step above that.
  15. Hi bwillis, unfortunately the shops that I have used are quite a way from Ann Arbor. I have had my 996 serviced at Munk's (indie) in Waterford, Fred Lavery (dealership) in Birmingham, and Automotive Technique (indie) in Farmington Hills. I have not tried Auto Europe in Birmingham, a Lotus and Morgan dealership that have sold and serviced porsches for the longest time and have heard many good things about them. I have not had service done at Bill Cook's (Suburban) Porsche, but a guy that I know have serviced his 996 Turbo there and didn't have a good experience. So, I steered away from them just to be safe. I don't want to get into the details of his not so good experience in an open forum like this, since it was not my personal experience. I know you said you want to try to avoid dealerships, but my experiences at Fred Lavery have been really nice. The technician, Kern, is very experienced and diagnoses problems very accurately. As for indie, I also had a good experience at Automotive Techniques with its owner/mechanic, Jeff Jones. I think I'll keep on using both these shops for my service needs. They both have advantages. Indie: I get to discuss options/problems with owner/mechanic directly as opposed to going through a service advisor middleman. More flexibility in discussing after-market parts/upgrades, custom jobs, or ala carte maintenance. When I take my car in for service, I get my DE tech inspection done and some general look-over underneath the car for no charge. Try to get a dealership to do that for free. Dealership: Fixed time units for labor! I love this. Sure, the hourly rate is $115, but with fixed time units for every job, repairs labor cost has been lower or same with indie. Plus, Porsche nationwide warranty. Convenient shuttle car to and from work, no need to ask friends for pick ups/drop offs. Shop opens 7AM-Midnight. I can practically pick up/drop off my car anytime. Hope that helps. Sorry, I don't know anything closer to Ann Arbor.
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