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99C2_Riyanto

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About 99C2_Riyanto

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    michaelriyanto

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  • From
    Michigan
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    99 C2

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  1. I suppose it's hard to comment without knowing the degree of the back problem that you have. In my humble opinion, only you can decide after test driving a boxster S. The clutch effort on a boxster S is definitely more than on an S2000, RX-8, and many other japanese sports cars. Although, not as heavy as the 993, for example. I think the Boxster S' clutch pedal requires about the same effort as a 996's, if you happen to have driven one. Compared to a Ford Mustang's, Boxster S' is much lighter. I personally like the firmer clutch pedal from a porsche. It makes a driver feel more engaged.
  2. Assuming you keep the width the same? If the 17" wheels are narrower, then the answer is obvious: contact patch. 17" pro: Much cheaper tires and you'll be going through lots of those if you do track events regularly. cons: Slightly slower reaction time since the car will be slightly more 'springy' with the same suspension. You may have a problem in the future if you ever want to upgrade your brake calipers. Some people may propose weight factor, but I've done quick calculations between 17" and 18" forged wheels with either michelin PSC or yokohama AD07. I have the found the combined w
  3. Thanks Orient Express. My mechanic told me he has done it. So, that one possible cause is checked off the list. I'll go to the track this Sunday to see whether that helps at all. It's impossible to make the car overheat with commute driving. Actually, yesterday, I revved the car to redline in 3rd gear to reach 99 mph and the temperature actually dropped, not rised. Hopefully, this is my last question in this thread: Some people told me the car's fans are supposed to keep turning after I turn off the engine if it is at full operating temperature. I don't remember ever hearing the fans tu
  4. Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll look into your suggestions. Loren, what's the easiest way to rule out the water pump impeller? The dealership noted the car has been checked with PST, but didn't say anything about PIWIS. Does PIWIS provide more information than PST? Dealership also noted the water temp was 205F after 50 miles of city driving and deemed it was normal. I personally don't think it's normal, since it was 55F outside and the car has always been able to maintain 190F since I owned it. This doesn't bother me as much as the fact that I can't go to any track event anymore sinc
  5. Hi, I need advice on an overheating issue on my 3.4L 996 (built in Mar '98, engine replaced at 52K miles, currently has 105K miles total on the car). First occurence of overheating was this summer on a race track. Since then, every time I do 5 hot laps, the water temp gauge goes all the way to the red zone. On stop and go city traffic, the needle moves higher than 190F, but still below the white line that is unnumbered on the gauge. On freeways, the car maintains 190F just fine. I took it to an independent technician who recharged the coolant 3 times and replaced a fuse and 4 relays rel
  6. Price sounds reasonable. When I bought my car, I checked prices for similar cars on autotrader.com, panorama classifieds (through PCA), and edmunds.com. That should give you the average and reasonable ceiling/floor. When it comes to precious cars like Porsches, it's hard to get a more exact figure as when we are shopping for a civic. When you love the car, a couple thousands more/less is less important. As in what could be wrong with the car, a $225 Pre-Purchase Inspection at a respectable dealer is the best investment. Don't have the selling dealer to inspect it though, due to the obvious c
  7. This must be little consolation for you, but my car has that same disgusting white residue. I am curious what it is myself. I am worried that may be residue from burnt coolant, since my car had some coolant getting into cylinder #5 many years ago. My engine has been replaced, but I don't think the oil funnel was replaced along with it.
  8. There is nothing wrong with your transmission. This is a common question asked by owners of the 6 speed. There is something peculiar about the double cone synchros of the 2nd gear. Some owners have tried a variety of transmission oil to remedy this, but there is always a trade off. For example, I have Amsoil now in my transmission. It improves the shifting when hot, but exaggerates the behavior when cold. I have read owners' review of other brands and sounds like there is something better and worse with every different tranny lube product. Yes, you can actually feel the shifting changes with d
  9. Go with Porsche's. I'm currently using the exact combination you're asking about: Zimmerman rotors and Pagid OE replacement pads. I find the zimmerman rotors work great on street and track, but there is a section of the rotor that is not coated like the Porsche's. So, that section will rust overtime unless you coat it with something. This is just an appearance thing, but why bother? Stick with Porsche's if you can find it cheaper. As for pads, I can't say what the difference is with Porsche's and Pagid's basic OE replacement pads. They look identical and perform identically in my opinion.
  10. 52000 miles when it died. Symptom before death: found coolant in cylinder 5.
  11. I think engine failures are quite common in early 996s. For USA, 1999 model is as early as it comes. Ask whether this car has had its engine replaced. I personally have a 99 C2 Coupe built in Mar 1998, which I bought in 2005, knowing that the original engine died at 52K miles and was replaced. I had comfort knowing that the car has a new engine that PAG has supposedly improved. Knowing that the car you are looking at only has a few teen thousand miles.... if there was any defect in that engine, it's possible that it hasn't surfaced, I suppose? Any chance you can get an extended warranty on
  12. 1999 996 6 spd. 20 MPG average city/hwy 26 MPG on out of town freeway cruising 7 MPG on the track I think those are really really good numbers. My wife's VW Jetta with only 172hp gets the same MPG.
  13. This site has a complete resource on maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...=maint_menu_car Since the car is more than 4 years old, regardless of miles, I would do the major 30,000 miles service if it was my car. If you don't want to do everything on the menu, at the least you must do the polyrib belt and brake fluid. I wouldn't touch the coolant, just top if off if necessary. Should you do it yourself if you were a novice? That's your call :) The DIY section of this site is rich of step by step instructions. You can judge whether you should. http://www.renntech.org
  14. Smack, if you do your DEs with PCA, you don't need a fixed roll bar. At least, my chapter does not require it for 996 Cabs. The ATE fluid, I believe, has boiling point about 100+ degrees higher than DOT4 fluid. As for brake pads, I use new OE pads myself. I don't have a problem with it so far. No mushy pedal feel after 25 minutes track sessions. I can still invoke the ABS if I brake hard enough, so the friction is there. Having said that, I'll upgrade to the Pagid Blue pads next time :) out of curiosity. It will squeal more though. The Pagid Orange is one step above that.
  15. Hi bwillis, unfortunately the shops that I have used are quite a way from Ann Arbor. I have had my 996 serviced at Munk's (indie) in Waterford, Fred Lavery (dealership) in Birmingham, and Automotive Technique (indie) in Farmington Hills. I have not tried Auto Europe in Birmingham, a Lotus and Morgan dealership that have sold and serviced porsches for the longest time and have heard many good things about them. I have not had service done at Bill Cook's (Suburban) Porsche, but a guy that I know have serviced his 996 Turbo there and didn't have a good experience. So, I steered away from them j
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