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Kevin Bryck

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About Kevin Bryck

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Velocity on Wheels, Guitars and Composition, Designing and Building, Cooking and Eating

Profile Fields

  • From
    Portland, OR, US
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '02 996.2 Cabrio, '00 F-150, '78 BMW R100RS
  • Future cars
    All done for now, thanks
  • Former cars
    '67 Beetle, '73 Datsun 510, '89 Taurus SHO, '89 Miata (First Day!)

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  1. Both 17" and 18" wheels will fit your car. Factory 17" rims are easier to find since most owners seem to want to go up in wheel size and have fitted 19" and even 20" wheels to a 996. My 17" Carrera2 wheels are listed as 1/2" narrower in front and 1" narrower in rear than my 18" Carrera wheels, presumably for clearance to fit cable chains. Many of the factory wheels floating around are from Boxters and are even narrower so beware of sellers saying that they are a correct fit your 996. Check the width. Given the current state of the pavement in this country I fit the 17" rims with the taller sidewall tires year round. Quieter, more comfort, less worries. I only keep the 18" wheels if I ever go to the track for some autocross?
  2. There are 9 motors involved in operating the cabriolet top and they all need to be working in synch with cabriolet "computer" with all the relays back there by your clamshell and hydraulic pump motors. After I completed all the mechanical fixes my top would still not operate until the local independent worked their PIWIS factory tablet computer magic to attempt to "top synch" the "computer." This took several visits since each visit would diagnose one error (confused latch motor, top position potentiometer arm broken off, flap motor nuts stripped causing a timing out of the process) Now about every other time I put the top in the "service position" for any reason the top fails to synch afterward and I get to pay the independent another $80 for another 5 minute "top synch" session. In theory Durametric was supposed to do this "top synch" procedure but rumor is that "top synch" was deleted from the home version and moved to much higher priced pro version. I can't tell because I have not been able to get Durametric to boot up on 3 different Windows laptops. Only have so much spare time. The clamshell manual operation bolt has a big shiny head attached to very small diameter (M5?) threads. I put mine back with Loctite and turn it very slowly and gently. I have also noted that after a few turns of the bolt the clamshell seems to spring fully open on its own. My clamshell still fails to reseat about every third time I close the top until I reach back and tickle the left flap motor into operating. Have had it out and bench tested it twice so presume it is a "computer" or relay problem. At this point it is a livable glitch given the need to put the top in the "service position" and take a chance on paying $80 for another "top synch" procedure. Good luck!
  3. I was warned to never hold/force the stalk in the on position to keep the signal blinking during a complex turning maneuver, like in a traffic circle. I have tried to be very careful with signal use since I replaced mine a one year ago for almost $400 for the part. The left signal is already intermittently failing to self cancel after completing a turn. Since the existing signal sound does not rise above background noise in these cars that leaves me phantom signaling as I proceed down the road. Need to retrain to manually cancel the signal now. This vehicle only has 50k miles. I run vehicles 150k to 200k before disposing and have never changed a turn signal stalk in my life. This part totally sucks.
  4. Given that 9 motors are involved in opening and closing a cab top, I was warned to only run the top up and down with the engine running.
  5. 2002 996 Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts! Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size. While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand. Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive. We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps. Anyone know how to remove old adhesive? Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with? Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year? Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
  6. Welcome everyone to the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts! See this thread: https://www.renntech.org/topic/51246-convertible-top-lid-issue/ These side flap motor lead screw follower nuts are a very soft plastic that does not even cover a single turn of the lead screw, not a proper self lubricating material or design. The fact that Porsche continues to foist off the exact same parts with a well documented history of failure shows just how much they care. Remember when paying through the nose that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia. If someone wants to 3D print a working part or mold we're not going to make a killing but we will not be supporting the greed and stupidity. There should be sticky listing all known fragile parts as a call-to-arms to the maker community to end the Genuine Parts/Tequipment ripoffs.
  7. The 17" rims are listed in my manual for winter use, perhaps to leave room for cable chains? My 17" rims are listed as 1/2" narrower in front and 1" narrower in rear.
  8. Welcome everyone to the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts! The fact that Porsche continues to foist off the exact same Steering Control Switch Assembly with a well documented history of failure shows just how much they care. Remember when paying through the nose that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia. Probably manufactured by some addled 4th cousin working in a remote German mountain village and supporting an entire shirt tail wing of the family. Or contracted out to some poor slapdash eastern European back alley garage operation. If someone wants to 3D print a workaround solution I would happily donate my old Steering Control Switch Assembly to the effort. There should be sticky listing all known fragile parts as a call-to-arms to the maker community to end the Genuine Parts/Tequipment ripoffs.
  9. Drove my '02 cabriolet with almost 50K miles from Minneapolis to Portland in the blazing August heat based on a PPI and optimism. Only trouble on the way was key fob failure. Will not be posting max speeds through ND and MT. If you're buying a fussy fragile cabriolet, familiarize yourself on the emergency up and down procedures and make sure the you have a Phillips to undo the back panel. Then think positive thoughts, smile and enjoy the ride...
  10. Okay this is REALLY specific. The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball. The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side? Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found. Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame? Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do? Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder. Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft. Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm. Right cable threaded into frame at top Right cable threaded into frame at top Missing cable location Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in Left cable Left upper cable end with 8mm thread Clip question
  11. Late to seeing this thread. Due to other cabriolet fragility problems both of my side flap nuts were stripped and cracked like your second to last photo. This causes too much friction to complete the flap open or close process before the cabriolet computer times out. The factory solution is to replace the entire flap and motor assembly. Someone with a 3D printer should make an upgraded version of this part. I was able to source a couple of proper self lubricating 8mm x 1.5 pitch follower nuts, machine them down in every dimension and slide them into the slot. An expensive trip to the local independent to work their PIWIS magic and the top re-synched first try. Excuse bad cell pics.
  12. From what I have read clicking means the drive cable end is stripped. Need a new cable or perhaps just the cable end?
  13. Upon purchase I received one battered key with a working remote fob and one no-remote valet key with my '02 996. Seller swore he would mail along the second working remote key from its secret hidden location. Hah! The one remote fob died on the trip home. New battery did not resurrect. After wasting countless hours on fruitless research I finally purchased two new RFID "Master Key Remote" fobs installed on the existing keys from Sunset for $459. $153 each for the shiny new RFID remote heads and $152 labor. No registration or ID required. Merry Christmas! Personally never had any remote fob fail (besides batteries) on any Ford, Mazda or Toyota products in the family since remote fobs were invented. Porsches are unique and amazing and not in a good way...
  14. Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor. If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures. First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these. This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers. It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out. Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
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