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Kevin Bryck

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  • Content Count

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About Kevin Bryck

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Velocity on Wheels, Guitars and Composition, Designing and Building, Cooking and Eating

Profile Fields

  • From
    Portland, OR, US
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '02 996.2 Cabrio, '00 F-150, '78 BMW R100RS
  • Future cars
    All done for now, thanks
  • Former cars
    '67 Beetle, '73 Datsun 510, '89 Taurus SHO, '89 Miata (First Day!)
  1. Drove my '02 cabriolet with almost 50K miles from Minneapolis to Portland in the blazing August heat based on a PPI and optimism. Only trouble on the way was key fob failure. Will not be posting max speeds through ND and MT. If you're buying a fussy fragile cabriolet, familiarize yourself on the emergency up and down procedures and make sure the you have a Phillips to undo the back panel. Then think positive thoughts, smile and enjoy the ride...
  2. Okay this is REALLY specific. The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball. The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side? Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found. Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame? Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do? Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder. Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft. Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm. Right cable threaded into frame at top Right cable threaded into frame at top Missing cable location Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in Left cable Left upper cable end with 8mm thread Clip question
  3. Late to seeing this thread. Due to other cabriolet fragility problems both of my side flap nuts were stripped and cracked like your second to last photo. This causes too much friction to complete the flap open or close process before the cabriolet computer times out. The factory solution is to replace the entire flap and motor assembly. Someone with a 3D printer should make an upgraded version of this part. I was able to source a couple of proper self lubricating 8mm x 1.5 pitch follower nuts, machine them down in every dimension and slide them into the slot. An expensive trip to the local independent to work their PIWIS magic and the top re-synched first try. Excuse bad cell pics.
  4. From what I have read clicking means the drive cable end is stripped. Need a new cable or perhaps just the cable end?
  5. Upon purchase I received one battered key with a working remote fob and one no-remote valet key with my '02 996. Seller swore he would mail along the second working remote key from its secret hidden location. Hah! The one remote fob died on the trip home. New battery did not resurrect. After wasting countless hours on fruitless research I finally purchased two new RFID "Master Key Remote" fobs installed on the existing keys from Sunset for $459. $153 each for the shiny new RFID remote heads and $152 labor. No registration or ID required. Merry Christmas! Personally never had any remote fob fail (besides batteries) on any Ford, Mazda or Toyota products in the family since remote fobs were invented. Porsches are unique and amazing and not in a good way...
  6. Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor. If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures. First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these. This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers. It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out. Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
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