Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'problem'.
Found 6 results
Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor. If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures. First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these. This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers. It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out. Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
Hey yall! I'm new here, long time lurker but now that I've come to a bunch of problems I cannot get resolve with the DIY or tutorial I was able to find on here or youtube I decided to open a post with my issues and see what you guys think! I have some (prolly) simple ones and some really weird ones. A little bit of context: I just bought my cayenne turbo (2004) 2 months ago from its 1st owner that neglected it for the last 3-5 years of ownership. I have done a lot of mechanical work on the car ( I can list everything if needed). These issues are mainly cosmetic and quality of life ones. 1st: The side view mirror shells. Are they suppose to be this flimsy ? the half shell does a plastic rattling noise when I close the door (mainly on the driver side) https://streamable.com/kg8zt 2nd: Steering column adjustment. Now this one I read a lot about resetting the seat control by tilting it and stuff, done it, did not work. It did clear my memory settings for the seats but not reset the motor for the steering wheel. As you can see, it can go in and out, not up and down.... https://streamable.com/aciky 3rd: The PoS that is called the PCM Radio. I think the previous owner finger f*ck the hell out of the radio system because, well... It's not working great. Main issue it that the time keeps resetting and does not fallow the real clock, it just gets stuck and the date is now missing but used to be stuck in year 2000 (for a 2004 model) It's asking me to insert the GPS disk to get it to update I think now... https://streamable.com/qjyax https://streamable.com/pr748 4th: The worst. Hopefully the video explains it....well, it's completely lost at where to throw the air... https://streamable.com/2vxfq I have another major one when I drive that it kick between gears (only some gears, only some times) mechanic told me it's the transfercase/module, interweb tells me it's the transmission valve body..., i'll make a video about that one later. Thank for the help in advance !
H! I have an 996 - 99mod manual 3,4L. When i start up it seems like it misfires. It`s kind of a knocking sound. Sometimes it stops on idle. When i push the throttle for a ouple of seconds, it smokes a lot and then the knocking goes away. After that, I let it Idle - but it slowly rises from 800rpm to around 2000rpm, then it drops to 800rpm again and do the same thing over and over again, Does anybody have a clue? This is the fault codes i found: P1601 -CAN timeout - instrument cluster P0600 - CAN timeout Tiptronic P0102 Hot film MAF sensor (erased and didn`t come back) 60 - Central locking limit pos 13 - Left door secured, but not locket 14 - Left door secured, but not locket 16 - Signal from airbag 1 - Doors secures and terminal 15 on 43 - passenger - side release stuck 44 - Driver-side release stuck 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
I have searched and searched this forum and the Internet but can't seem to find anyone else with my issue. Last week, I got in the car and the A/C came on full blast, but no air came out of the vents. I turned it off and then back on a few minutes later and it worked. It kept working the next several days and then it did it again. Now it has died completely. When I turn the fan speed to max, a tiny bit of cool air comes out, but I can barely feel it. The 2 A/C & Heat fuses are fine and there are no codes in the CEL. I have the classic foam in the duct issue and worry that it's clogged the fan, but I can't hear the fan starting at all, but I do hear the A/C turn on and some other electronic/mechanical noises when I turn the fan on or off with the controls. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? As a Floridian with 90+ degree days, your help is much appreciated!
Hi All, Need your help again guys. I’ve got this weird problem whereby I am unable to open the front passenger side door (UK based car) using the external door handle. However I am able to open it using the interior handle. I’ve got access to an inspection camera which I was able to feed inside the door (after removing the grommet) and the main mechanism (supporting bow handle > http://www.design911.com/Supporting-Bow-Door-Handle-Porsche-955-Cayenne/prod7182/ ) appears to move freely when I pull either the interior or exterior door handles. This leads me to believe that it may be an electrical problem rather than mechanical? Thanks to this website I was able to find a guide on how to remove the interior door card (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32744-door-panel-removal/ ) but before I attempt this I want to make sure that it’s not some thing simple or a setting that I’ve overlooked? Has anyone else experienced a similar problem and if so how did you resolve it? BTW I have a Key-less Entry System on my vehicle. Thanks in advance and I hope you can help me. AK
Started noticing that the steering wheel makes a slight shuddering/shaking when making a hard turn from a cold start. Has done this a few times, so it wasn't just the road surface. My first thought is that the power steering is low. Then my immediate second thought was "F" that's going to be expensive to fix if there is a leak. Anyone else have any ideas as to what might be causing this?