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I accessed the clip through the louvers, between the first and second louvers (from the top). I used a long, thin common screwdriver. It's difficult to see the clip. The assembly goes back in a lot easier......naturally. Bill

I didn't actually do the wiring. A technician at my dealer did the actual work. I'm in the shop now. The technician says he hooked the power lead to the "86s" / E-1 fuse......but doesn't remember which side of the fuse. He suggests that you remove the fuse and use a voltmeter to determine which contact is powered and then hook up the wire to the other contact thus retaining your fused power protection. Bill

Try out this link: https://f66b4128-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/mikefocke2/NutsertInstall.pdf?attachauth=ANoY7cpyEPgJZRrZGRQah28iQzf-kpTVYxfG38tfDXXPN6HmixQVTy4F9TYRKtdfBkGUpjvo7lt4_RcW3bWr7RDfszoyx8qnsUnzDEyfhRmLb42bpfnQF97HAkMjYFYTwBSDcXyp2Ky7_0Jw0OlgZZ484D2vsVn8yQ_B5JeJDHQWTbWZuzy6ZN0-X2gIG_1tEPto3dcY9sAYYDU0Cn_TTFFa76-JJxffSA%3D%3D&attredirects=0 Bill

Here is the information I got at my dealer this afternoon:: MOVING CONVERTIBLE-TOP TO SERVICE POSITION: 1. Remove left and right wind deflector inserts from the roll over bar. 2. Open the convertible top until a dimension of approximately 100 mm is achieved between the windshield frame and the front convertible top bow. 3. Reach through the opening in the roll-over bar and unclip the tension ropes from the guides on both sides. 4. Open the convertible top until a dimension of approximately 470 mm is achieved between the windshield frame and the front convertible top bow. 5. With the rear lid open, grab the rear tension bow from the outside and pull upwards. 6. Loosen retaining strap from the mounting on the rear tension bow. 7. Pull Retaining strap over the convertible top covering to the left convertible-top tip and attach. ENDING CONVERTIBLE-TOP SERVICE POSITION: 1. Disengage retaining strap and clip into the catches on the tension bow. 2. Fold tension bow back out of the service position and into the original position. 3. Reach through the opening in the roll-over bar and clip the tension ropes into the guides on both sides. 4. Close convertible top and install wind deflector inserts. I know photographs would make this whole exercise easier, but the photographs I got with the opening procedure are difficult enough to see in the original document and when scanned...... At least the procedure doesn't take a PIWIS to accomplish. The technicians didn't have the time (or experience - haven't been to school yet!) to demonstrate how to find the engine. Maybe next time. Bill

According to the maintenance schedule: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/download/1679-boxster-986-maintenance-my97-to-my05-rowpdf/ found here under the "DIY Tools" tab, suggests fluid and filter change at 96,000 miles. There is no mention of time, i.e., change every so many years. Bill

Don, Check out this link for the MY03 Carrera Owner's Manual: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/download/601-my03-carrera-996-owners-manual/ Page 18 is the place where the need to press and hold the "open" button for approximately 2 seconds is discussd. Also on that page is an explination of the way the locked doors are unlocked while the trunk is open and how the doors relock automatically in 15 seconds if one of the doors isn't opened. If you don't have an Owner's Manual, you can purchase one from a dealer for about $20-25. If you do have an Owner's Manual, I think you'll find it pretty informative reading. Bill

Take the key back to the dealer and have him troubleshoot the problem. Porsche has a two year guarantee on parts and service. Bill

Unfortunately, the chap is incorrect. There is no "standard" wiring harness for Porches. Every car is buil to specific order requirements. In fact, Porsche doesn't build a car without a specific order from an end user......either a dealer or a customer. Bill

I always check the filter after the cardboard end pieces have been cut away and the filter spread open completely. That way I can see the amount of debris, if any, in its totality. Bill

Here's the MOST bus link I mentioned above: Bill

I also have a MY03 Boxster (with MOST bus and boot mounted Harman amplifier) in which I installed a Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT....again using the installation kit offered by the author of the above link. I had to do the following to resolve the problems associated with the MOST bus: 1. I pulled the Harman amplifier and wired the audio output of the AVIC-Z110BT directly to the speakers. (When the Harman was removed, I inserted the audio output wires directly into the plug left empty. I used individual miniature "banana" plugs. Again, no cutting of stock wiring....immediately re-convertible to original configuration if required.) I know I loose points for depending on the anemic power output of the head unit instead of having an amplifier with enough power to light a small city. However, the much improved sound of the new head unit is loud enough for me. 2. I had to run a wire for a switched power source to the fuse panel that would keep the head unit powered until the ignition key was physically pulled out of the ignition switch.....like the stock radio setup. I initially tried to use the switched power source that is part of the optional telephone system (possibly found in US cars only(?)) but found that that source was switched off as soon as the ignition switch was turned off. The continuous (keep memory alive) power source is taken care of with the wiring harness provided in the installation kit. There is a link to another RennTech Board member's MOST installation in the 986 Boxster DIY section. Oh, the OBC in my car works well indicating all of the car information as indicated in the Owner's Manual but nothing for (or from) the haed unit. Bill

Check out this link: This is a link that covers the installation of a Pioneer AVIC-D3.....a double DIN nav/radio/music system. The D-3 is several years old now, but the installation instructions are illustrative of the procedure you would most likely have to follow to complete a change of systems. I am not familiar with the Pioneer AVH-2400BT or PCM2, but have installed a Pioneer AVIC-Z3 in my 2002 Targa (with Bose) using (most of) the above link. There were some minor differences in the physical mounting of the head unit (due to the fact that the originator's car having a slightly different dashboard structure due to the age of the car, not the car model. The electrical power hook-up was identical. The speaker hook-up was different due the fact that my car had the Bose stereo not the stock stereo like the original car. This difference was fairly easy to correct, however. The entire installation was completed without having to make any changes to the car's wiring....nothing was cut. In fact the original head unit could be reinstalled immediately if needed. The author of the link is very helpful if you were in need of help in installing your AVH-2400BT. He also sells an installation kit which is very handy. Bill

Is there a chance that one of your (front) wheels might be slightly bent? Bill

Gyorgy, Down load, print and keep in your car a copy of this AAA Towing Guide For Porsches: http://partner.aaa.b...Porsche_ERS.pdf Bill

BTW , Christopher, your car doesn't have the MOST (Media Oriented System Transport) bus......which is a fiber optic system integrating radio/nav, external cd, external amplifier and telephone. The MOST bus has been a fairly reliable system but very difficult to work around when upgrading audio systems. I would consider myself fortunate not to have the MOST bus system to have to work around. If you have an OEM external amplifier, it is mounted in the front trunk on the "firewall" between the spare tire and the battery. One other place in the audio system that has caused problems with the audio system is the detachable faceplate. If any of the electricle contacts have any dirt or corrosion on them, the audio system might be affected. Bill

I had a similiar problem with an alternator/voltage regulator a few months ago. The problem was in the voltage regulator. When the engine, alternator, voltage regulator were cool, the indicated voltage was 13.+. After the car heated up the indicated voltage started dropping - at one point below 11 volts. I refused the dealer's offer to replace the entire alternator (~$1,200!) and took the unit to an independent automotive electronics shop and had the voltage regulator replaced ($82.50). The voltage regulator itself only cost about $25. And it is easy to change. But, I paid a professional do it and test the alternator following the work. The extra money was, in my opinion, well spent to insure I got a reliable electric source. Now, I have an electrical system that runs at 14.1 volts (after starting) and about 13.5 volts (after the battery has been charged). Bill

The switch on my car does have a soft click when I push the button in to turn off the emergency flashers. Perhaps another reinstallation glitch? The switch can be reinstalled upside down but of course the button would have to be forced back on the switch.....which might slightly impede the action of the button. Just to make sure I know what is happening, with the emergency flashers off, the button should be flush with the bezel. To turn on the flashers, you push in slightly which "unlocks" the button allowing it to pop out a fraction of an inch turning on the flashers. To extinguish the emergency flashers, you push in on the button until the button softly "locks" and comes to rest in a position flush with the bezel. Is this the way your emergency flasher button is operating? Bill

If you do start negotiating for the car, stipulate that the car has to have a pre-buy inspection.....preferably by a Porsche dealer or a well respected independent technician, not by a friend of a cousin who knows not only how to spell Porsche but knows how to pronounce the word. The cost of the inspection will be, as you probably know, a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of a major "happening". BTW, the car IS very pretty. Bill

About the only thing I can think of is that your technique for reinserting the plugs may be the problem. They are difficult to reach but must be pushed firmly into the back of the instrument cluster and held in position - firmly - until the lock lever is snapped into place. You didn't metion the Model Year of your car; the colors of of the plugs were changed after the MY00 from Blue, Black and White to, beginning with the MY01, Green, Blue and Gray. In any event the colors of the plugs must match the socket colors on the back of the instrument cluster. I know that's pretty elimental......but, strainger things have inadvertantly happened. With a very quick scan of my Bentley's Boxster service nanual, I didn't see any major fused circuit that would disable the instrument cluster. Check the security of the plugs. If you should break a plug or more likely a lock lever, check out the following: BROKEN PLUG HARDWARE. For those MY01 – MY04 DIY’ers who have broken the lock on one or more of the instrument cluster plugs or who are afraid they might, here’s the part number you need : PNA 721.04.300.202. This part number gets you a package with the three colored (blue, green, gray) covers/locks and all three black plugs. They only come as a set of three and cost $27.00 (dealer). The blue, white and black covers/locks and plugs are available for MY97 – MY00 Boxsters too. Have your Porsche technician (not parts guy) check his “Porsche Electrical Connector Repair Kit” for the replacement parts or at least a part number for the three plug package. The entire repair kit is known as CARTOOL – Nr 96 0 000 or PNA 721 043 600. It is full of connectors the parts guy would like to sell you the entire wiring harness for. Bill

I have replaced the third brake light on my wife's MY03 Boxster (and my MY02 Targa) with LED units. Both were PnP units.....but, both had instructions to be used to ensure that the cars' plug polarity was correct. Because diodes only allow electricity to flow one way, plug polarity is important. I think the problems with most LED brake lights have been polarity problems. The cure for polarity problems is generally swapping the power wire with the ground wire in the plug. Bill

I tried the switched power source under the center console on my MY03's AVIC-Z110BT installation and found like you that the system was switched off when the ignition switch was turned off. So, to get the navsystem to stay powered until the key was withdrawn, I had a Porsche technician run the system's red power wire down to the fuse panel and attach it to the radio fuse position. The`technician used a voltmeter to ensure the wire was connected to the proper side (power stayed on until the key was removed) of the fuse. It took less than a half a hour. Bill

I caught an electrical problem before it got to the point of causing the illumination of any warning lights, I.e., alternator voltage less than 12 volts. I had the alternator trouble shot and was told it had failed. But the technician suggested that I have the voltage regulator checked before replacing the alternator. Fortunately, it did turn out to be the voltage regulator which I had replaced for $80. It seems that some alternator failures can be caused by a voltage regulator that fails to regulate as it gets hotter. The voltage got lower as the alternator/voltage regulator warmed up. Bill

Randy, Check out this link: http://www.carnewal-...pe.com/main.htm http://www.design911...5/Gauge-Bezels/ http://www.porschesh...erior_trim.html Unfortunately one size fits all, i.e., the trim rings are for a 996 but are useable for 986's Carnewal-Europe has a good reputation, I haven't heard anything - good or bad - about Design911 or Porscheshop. Bill

Have the dealer's technician use a PIWIS to read the operating hours and multiply that number by about 30-32 mph. The result should be a fairly good approximation of the mileage. As "logray" says, it would take replacing at least the instrument cluster with a new one (or having had the original one reset by an instrument shop) to lower the indicated mileage. And, that would not address the operating time issue. The DME would have to be replaced with either a new one or one from a low mileage used car. It is pretty difficult and expensive to roll back mileage with out a smoking gun. And while you're at it, have the dealer's technician use the PIWIS to read the number of "ingitions" the engine has experienced. Type 1 ignitions indicate the number of times the rev limiter was needed to kick in to keep the engine from exceding the red line. Type 2 through 5 (?) indicate actual overspeeding of the engine - generaly caused by a missed down shift, i.e., shifting from 5th to 2nd missing the intended 4th gear. Every ignition reading is accompanied by the last operating time at which it occured. Was the instrument cluster ever replaced? There is a spot in the front of the Maintenance Booklet that would show the fact and the mileage/date at the time of the replacement. Also, are the maintenance records available? If so, the replacement should have been recorded. Have the dealer check the Porsche system wide computer data base to see if any warrantee work has been done. There have been problems reported with the accuracy of CARFAX reports in the past. I would hold the dealer's feet to the fire to get the question resolved before any cash changes hands. Bill

Have you seen this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/5477-wind-deflector-install/ Bill