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I put one in and it did not fix the problem. It actually got worse. Now looking for other causes.
You probably know this already, but it won't go up or down with any of the car doors open (safety feature)..
Hahnmgh63 had the same problem I've had: air compressor would run-on and I would have to stop and re-start the car several times to get it to shut off. I did the widely-recommended compressor piston ring replacement (which I've also had to do on a Touareg) but that did not solve the problem this time. The compressor continued to run-on and got the the point where it would not shut off at all, no matter how many times I re-started and stopped the engine. I finally had to park it in my shop and pull the 40-amp fuse under the driver's seat to avoid killing the battery. Now what? Replace the pressure sensor? (2006 Cayenne Turbo S)
After a recent oil change (which I did, as a matter of routine, including draining the turbo reservoirs), I have suddenly developed a major oil leak coming out of left side intercooler pipes area. Have not yet investigated in detail. Shop where I just had an alignment done thinks it's a blown left turbo oil seal. Says turbo will likely have to be replaced. When I did a brisk left-accelerating-turn on the way back to my office, I generated a huge cloud of oil smoke. Otherwise, it is not visibly smoking, but it did leave a 12" diameter puddle of oil on the parking spot. Car has 80K miles. I have a lift and do all my own work (except alignment). 1) Is this indeed the likely a blown turbo oil seal? This seems uncommon, but perhaps not unheard-of, from scanning the forum. 1a) Is there anything I could have done during the oil change to cause this? I followed the same procedure I always do. 2) Is turbo replacement the only wise option?($3000 from Sunsset) What about a rebuilt "genuine OEM" unit from BuyAutoParts on eBay? ($679) 3) If I am going to the trouble to disassemble the turbo/exhaust system, would it be advisable to perform turbo and exhaust upgrades? We are satisfied with the stock power and sound, but mods are always fun and this might represent a good excuse to do some...as long as the cost isn't exorbitantly more than just repairing what I've got.
I realize there are quite a few different combinations to consider, here, but I'd like to ask anyway, since the nav system is pretty useless as-is. (I don;t know why I'm bothering since I have a Garmin or two anyway and data entry in the PCM system is a ridiculous pain, but it's there and if it can be made more useful I'd like to at least consider the updates.) My situation is a 2006 Cayenne with Nav, SW 3.3, PCM level B (5024), amp level 16457. My questions, to which I have not found definitive answers on any sites, are: 1) Can I safely use the C update disc which goes in the Nav DVD drive without frying my amp? 2) what benefits would I see going from B to C? 3) Since my nav DVD is the original 2005 version, would this be a good time to update to the "2013" disc or when might we expect to see the next update (if ever)? and 4) I think I understand that I can update the maps to 2013 without updating from B to C software, should it prove to be dangerous for my amp to go from B to C, correct? Many many thanks to the contributors!
Darrin, also curious about size matchup on the other two tees. The 25-16-25 sends its 16 mm hose to the other tee, which you have listed as a plain 19 mm. How did we get from 16 mm to 19 mm?
Final Fairness Hearing on the settlement action won't be until March 10, 2014. My pipes are leaking now. Not much choice but to make the repair now and hope for the reimbursement later.
dpolson replied to Natty's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)The blind rivet nut slips right into the hex-shaped hole in the floor bracket, and when you tighten up on the bolt the first time (best to do it with an ordinary short generic bolt and washer(s) it squishes the captive nut a little and that locks it into place.
Anyone have any experience with the rebuilt air suspension units from Touring Tech?
Thanks, Maurice! Funny, I didn't see that the PST 2 asked me for that 24-digit code for the Cayenne key, like it did when I programmed a brand new key for my 996. Perhaps it asks for it in a later step in the process that I didn't even get to? Or perhaps the Cayenne and the 996 are different in that respect? Dave
Folks, can I get any help with my programming question about four posts back?
Anyone have a slow leak develop in one corner on air suspension? Does this foretell an impending blowout? Does an air spring blowout render the car undriveable? Do these systems typically leak anywhere but at the air spring itself? Shop manual says to replace both left and right air struts if one goes bad and the car has over 120,000 miles, implying that this is the useful life of the air struts. Does anyone have any real-world data as to how long the air struts last? Do fronts go bad before rears typically? The "pressure sensor lead" error code repair sequence starts off with looking for leaks in the system, so I presume that leaks are therefore the most common cause of this error code. Any agreement on this? Thanks all.
I need some programming help. I have the following: 1) Original second key for my Cayenne with a destroyed fob. 2) A good used fob from another Cayenne, to whcih I have transferred the original cut key. 3) A PST2 computer tool. 4) My car's code # from the dealer 5) One good orginal first key + fob. Still, I seem unable to program the second fob to this car. I've tried "teaching" just the new key/fob, and I've tried "teaching" both the original first key/fob along with the second key/fob, and whatever I do, the second key/fob still trigggers the immobilizer. The PST2 says "programming key failed" or something to that effect. What am I doing wrong?