Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by demosan

  1. Ben, I have experienced the same type of noise in my Saab Aero and found it was the plugs needing replacement. The car manual said I could use regular as well and I tried mid-grade as well as premium ( Chevron as well) and still had the noise until the plugs were replaced after only 15K miles. Never had the the problem in my 02 C4S running Chevron premium fuel FWIW. How many miles does your current plugs have on them?? Good Luck!! Dave :cheers:
  2. Will, if you had to refill the cooling system with 3 1/2 gallons you were more than half empty. YOur wife must have had a warning indicator come on to inform coolant was low?? If not, a sensor in the cooling resevoir tank must be bad for one and more imprtantly there must have been a catastrophic leak somewhere to lose 3+ gallons ?? Hopefully, there has been no engine damage, i.e warping of cylinder heads, etc as a result of overheating. I would get the cooling system pressure tested to diagnose if the reservoir tank or one the many hoses has failed. Good Luck!! :cheers: demosan
  3. This is "exactly" what happened last time when the cat failed, except it was on the driver's side. This time it's clearly on the passenger side. I am not one to often jump to quick diagnosis - but I have enough confidence in myself to bet on this being the other cat. (2002 w/39k miles, go figure) I Have an appt Monday morning at local dealer - we'll see what they do - but they're not the most responsive bunch. I used to drive 60 miles to the next closest dealer 'cause they were so great to work with... but with this economy - they closed down in December - they're no longer in business.... Thx for the thought - if they choose to wait for it to fail and set off the CEL, I'm still interested if anyone has any thoughts about whether there could be any issues with running hard, at a DE with a CEL on from the cat. eDoug, I believe it is hard to say as to wheter there could be some damge to the ECU as a result of the CAT on one side being bad, especially when you are driving the car in a DE event and pushing it hard. The down-stream O2 sensor from the CAT will be working hard to let the ECU know there are excessive emissions ( which sets the CEL). Not sure what state you are in, but here in CA the cats are mandated to be under warranty for 7 or 8 years and 70K miles so you may just under the wire here. Other states are different , but I do not beieve under 7 years warranty. My $.02 Good Luck with the dealer!! Demosan :cheers:
  4. Not sure how long it has been since you installed the HR Sport springs, but it is not uncommon they will settle over a week or two and you may find the difference may change. I would wait a bit before making a tire size change for compensation. Have you spoken to HR to see what they say about the ride height change?? Good Luck!! Demosan
  5. I've had both Porsche of West Houston and Porsche of North Houston tell me that once the computer has problems, there's no way to reprogram it and that I'd have to buy a new computer. They've both also said there's no way to use a used computer, which I know is wrong because I've read tholyak's posts on the topic. I just wish I knew somebody in Houston with a PST2 or PIWIS. I Would search for an independentr shop with either of the testers Loren references and trya re-program before spending $3G's for a new DME. Indie may have a good source for a refurbished or reclaim source for lot cheaper than the $3G. Good Luck!! Demosan
  6. Sounds like an oil pressure sensor beginning to fail. Did you see your oil preswsure gauge giving you any erratic readings when the oil light came on?? Demosan
  7. I agree with you it sounds like a classic ignition switch problem. Usually you possibly could wiggle the key in the ignition and get it catch to start, but given the problem being tw omonths old the switch may be a 'hard faliure". Good Luck!! demosan
  8. KD, I don't believe you should have a problem. If the "new" bulb is within the 55W spec. the 125W reference is more about light intensity than electrical draw on the headlight circuit. Because the color you have chosen is 8000K they are referencing the increase in perceived higher light intensity, i.e, the apparent equivalent to a 125 W bulb?? If it were truely 125W you would be blowing fuses immediately. Demosan :cheers:
  9. i got my box rebuilt and upgraded by GBOX in colorado.... 3 day turnaround.... $3550 us inlcuding new diff plates. modified first and second gear landing for improved shift engagement as well. talk to Josh GBOX 5757 Arapahoe Ave. Unit C1 East Boulder, Colorado 80303 Phone: 303.440.8899 silver, Does GBOX offer any warranty with the $3550 rebuild price?? demosan
  10. yep and his mileage to pot! heavy!!! :eek: There is enough magnetic flux with this set-up to do a MRI of your whole body!! LOL Demosan
  11. Phillip, No screws, just a "snap-in" piece. As RFM stated, start in lower left corner and gently pry out. I use a plastic "putty" knife to pry to begin as it won't scratch either the surround or dash if you're careful. Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:
  12. Tom, To quote our esteemed moderator and Porsche Guru Loren, "search is your friend"....... Look here courtesy of Loren http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...alignment+specs demosan
  13. Sounds like the classic problem with the ignition switch going bad!! Have you noticed any irregularities with the dash lights just before ignition ?? Do a searc hfor ignition switch and you will a DYI as well as many other posts on the subject. My $.02 Demosan
  14. Anthony, I would guess with the Pirelli tires needing replacement, that is the source of the increased road noise. I had the same issue with both front and rears when my Pirelli's were worn and ready for replacement as the Pirelli's are notorious for noise. I would suggest you do do a search for tire replacement threads on this site and you will get several making recommendations for other manufacturers ( other than Pirelli) that have worked out well for folks. Demosan
  15. phillipj, Very nice looking car with some nice mods!! Has it had the 60K service yet?? Good luck with it and watch those Socal tunnels!! demosan :cheers:
  16. Thanks. What is the DME learning or adjusting? It's not like an automatic where optimal shift points can be "learned", is it? smackboy1, Sort of!! My understanding is the Porsche learning algorithim uses 5 "drive cycles" that allows the DME to look at the various O2 sensors performance ( and tolearances) as well as the MAF characteristics t ooptimize the engine performance ( and emmison parameters). As others have said, drive it for a few days and you be back to better tha nnormal with your new DME. Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:
  17. drateam, I am not sure it would be the speedo cable if it only happens over bumpy roads. One common "noise" issue is the baffles in the mufflers break loose inside and create various rattle like sounds. I haven't encounteres this in my car and am not sure how many miles you have on your car. DO a search of muffler noise and will probably find some threads tha tcover this issue in more detail. Good Luck!! demosan demosan (and anyone else with a similar rattle), I've finally figured out the rattle problem. First, I would have sworn that it was coming from the passenger side rear, but it's actually the driver side rear seat belt retracting mechanism -- the device that you can't get to without removing the rear interior panel. I haven't done this yet, but no matter what the problem is (not securely attached, broken mechanism, etc.) it's out of here. For me, the whole rear "seat" set is totally unusable, so it's all going. Less weight, less hassle and one less rattle. Now, on to the driver's side seat belt adjusting mechanism, which squeaks and rattles too. Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem. drateam drateam, Glad to hear you found the solution to those d*** rattles. I never have had anyone is the back seat of my C4S, so that's one I don't suffer from. THanks for sending this closure thread. demosan
  18. CMiYC, Most likely the battery as it uses sulphuric acid ( and water) as the elctrolyte. I would check to see if the battery is low on water ( use distilled to top off). Is this the original battery?? If so, it may be getting close to replace. Demosan :cheers:
  19. drateam, I am not sure it would be the speedo cable if it only happens over bumpy roads. One common "noise" issue is the baffles in the mufflers break loose inside and create various rattle like sounds. I haven't encounteres this in my car and am not sure how many miles you have on your car. DO a search of muffler noise and will probably find some threads tha tcover this issue in more detail. Good Luck!! demosan
  20. phillip, Sounds like you have come through the experience without any major injuries and for that be thankful. Reassuring the car held-up structurally as well as it did, although it certainly appears to be totalled as you mentioned earlier. Good luck with the insurance negotiations and think positively about your next P-car. Lot's of choices out there these days with buyer's pricing advantage!! Demosan :cheers:
  21. +1 on perryvina's comments. When I change oil in my car I use the dipstick as the "gold standard" and the electrnic sensor registers 1 one bar lower than full when car has sat for a while and all oil has all drained to the sump. Demosan
  22. John, All I can say to you is "to the victor go the spoils...." Congrats to you and your perseverence has paid off!! I ( along with many others I'm sure) has followed your thread for months and I applaude your determination and resolve to "make it right". demosan :cheers:
  23. James, Only possible cause I can think of may be a cracked solder joint on the small PC card in the key remote. You could carefully look for the bad joint visually or possibly by pressing the circuit card while trying to unlock the car. If it works then you know it is a solder connection and if you can use a solder iron, not a big deal to resolder before you order a new remote. Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:
  24. James, Your rough idle problem may have been caused by the low voltage to the DME as the alternator was dying. I assume you disconnected the battery when you replaced the alternator and now the DME has to "relearn" your driving habots as well as compensate for the "new alternator" putting 14+ volts into the battery for charging. As I recall, it takes approximately 5-6 starts for the DME to get itself back into "normal" ( I have read this in several posts in this forum). I would adjust the throttle linkage back to original position and let the DME do its thing in relearn for a few days and your rough idle should be eliminated. If not, then you go to codes for possible MAF issues. Good Luck!! :cheers: demosan
  25. longhorn, I would not siphon the gas, but would put some octane booster you can purchase from an auto supply to get the octane closer to normal dependent on how much your tank was filled with the 87 octane fuel. I would try and "take it easy" in driving for a 1/4 of a tank or so until you can get some 91 ( or higher if available in your area). demosan
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.